1982 Martin T-23

[Patrick Walsh]

I cut the end of the shoulder bolt you suggested on the metal bandsaw at work.

More like nice work bring

Thanks again.

Nice work, Patrick!

[Patrick Walsh]

Ok so a list of updates and quite a few hours screwing around.

As a result I have determined the machine needs new motor bearings. The oil system for the quill is not working. And the speed indicator lights don’t work.

As a result I have quite a long list of things to tend to before this machine is ready for work. No big deal as I fully knew when I purchased the machine this all could very well be the case. Plus I like having something like this to do. Plus we will probably all get locked in our houses and I’ll have plenty of time.

So begins the ordering from Mccmaster.

One of the first things I had to do was get my new phase converter wired. That took most of the week and a little of last weekend a couple hours here and a couple hours there. I’m sure you all have seen my electrical thread so I’ll leave it at that.

I started today by getting bringing the killing process of some ash to make the fence plates. I also made a wooden dust cover for the fence that will only be used as a template to make one out of aluminum. I know most will say it’s fully functional and nice enough. I can’t stand a machine that’s a hodge podge of parts and half assed fixes.

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The fence dust port has a major crack in the aluminum cast. Form what I can by others whom own this machine this is very common. Now having the machine I can see why. The port is held on by a carnage bolt and wing nut. It goes through a hole in the fence proper but slides into a slot on the dust port only. As a result when you move the fence around the dust port comes loose very easy and you’d have to be stupid careful for it to not end up on the floor. In 40 years of use I’m sure it has hit the floor more than once hence the crack.

As a result I initially thought some grip tape like on a skateboard would provide enough friction to keep it snug when the carriage bolt and wing nut are tightened. I tried sand paper folded over on itself and it worked great. I almost ordered grip tape before remembering this sticky back felt I ordered for the t75. It worked perfect the hood no longer moves unless loosened.

The bubble maple is kinda cool but I’ll still make one out of metal. The hinges where mangled so I took them off and flattened them back out. I’m half tempted to replace them as the pins holding them together are nails. But other than the nails they are original to the machine so I’ll keep them and replace the rails with who knows what but not dam nails.

I then got into putting the aigner support rails on for extension tables. I know it looks like I’m screwed I fed wise with my saw in the way. Both will get height adjustable feet and I’ll stagger the height of all my machines.

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Then spent some time getting my shop back in some kinda sane order. I like a tidy shop.

I purchased this lift table to help moving all these heavy machines in and out. You see that giant lvl in the background and that had been my go to aid in moving machines thus far. The issue is storing it. It ultimately get lagged to the wall then brackets hung on it to become a lumber rack. The problem with that is obveous in that whenever you need it you gotta move the whole dam shop. I figured this giant 3x6 lift table also just be in the way. I convinced myself it would be at least another work surface. Then I realized it will be the perfect place to sticker my stock vrs always steeling a corner of my bench or miter station.

It looks tight where it is but it’s actually very handy right there next to the combo machine.

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I then had the brilliant idea after visiting Brian’s shop to kitty corner my bandsaw. It does not look like it but the height clears that of my bench. I have 160” of in and outfeed the way it is now.

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The view from over where the giant lathe will go looking back. Honestly compared to like four months ago when I had that wall up it feels like I have so much space. Now having been at building this shop for at least 5-6 years I really understand work flow and machine placement much better. I also understand what machine I need and don’t need much much more.

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And the project machine at least looking like it’s ready to work. It’s not!

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So now I gotta motivate to drop the motor and pull apart the Oiler. I’m not very excited actually as I’ll just be making a mess of what see,s to be for the moment a shop ready to work in again. The reality is I gotta get that lathe home this coming week and get that put back together wired and running. I’m sure it will also present at least a few issue. Fact is it will be a while yet before I get this all sorted. And by them hopefully the sky won’t have fallen and I’ll find a sliding table t23 and maybe even bring my t54 home. One step at a time as this all is a huge amount of time financial resources all be it a itty bitty whittle shop.

[Jim Becker]

Looks like you have adequate spacing to move around in there and work with material no problem.

[Joe Calhoon]

Patrick, some of your previous questions. For bolt levelers we use these on the Soukup machines. I think McMaster has something similar.

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For smaller machines like the T23 and 17 I prefer wood legs that I can slip my narrow pallet jack between.

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Does your 23 have the copper coils like this at the pump? Mine were missing and copied what Matt’s had.

[Patrick Walsh]

Joe,

I’m onto the the Mccmaster legs. Sadly Brian found me a $89 a piece option I just have to have. and you know I need like eight total with the two machines. So sadly they wait.

I also need adjustable as my floors are that wack. As it is now on the bolts I can easily get my low profile narrow for pallet jack under it. I thought about copying your wood feet but in plastic as I really really like them. But you know to get it perfectly level I’d have to build them different heights to level the machine. If I had a disk or edge sander it would be 123 no problem but I don’t.

No mine does not have a coil and the tank that hold the oil has a large aluminum block around it.

Let’s see if I can find a picture.

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It’s not circulating oil at all. I took the belt off and ran the machine for almost a hour today and not a single drip. I have no idea what it could be and am just praying that when I pull it apart I find a clog in a line or something obveous and easy to resolve.

If not with the motor bearings and this I could really have gotten myself into something. If I can’t figure it out I can always do the greased bearing swap but I really want the oil bath and honestly with everything going on would ot be able to afford to tend to the isssue for god knows how long.

It’s all good though as I’m totally committed to this machine even if it’s a long haul.

Patrick, some of your previous questions. For bolt levelers we use these on the Soukup machines. I think McMaster has something similar.

0FED73A7-0100-4496-B1D5-F950360803FD.jpgCEF0027F-B94C-4DCE-AEA2-B19AE9C4F854.jpg

For smaller machines like the T23 and 17 I prefer wood legs that I can slip my narrow pallet jack between.

62A47F1F-8B63-4497-BB1C-3194AE4E03B0.jpeg

Does your 23 have the copper coils like this at the pump? Mine were missing and copied what Matt’s had.

[Patrick Walsh]

Yeah it’s kinda crazy.

I was so scared coming from my old festool sawstop centric shop that I was in for it with these big machines. But you know not to pay myself on the back but I think I have a real knack for shop layout. I did it for my old employer and everyone loved it when I was done. And my new employer has already expressed that he was reluctant regarding my vision for the gomad and a place for it and it being the right choice but that now in use he sees that I was seeing something he just couldn’t.

I’m really really excited for this shop. A few more small bits and pieces and this is pretty much my dream shop minus a spry booth and a full metal shop lol..

For a old retired or young unemployed guy puttering around this is gonna be awesome.

When the master bedroom are done and exterior of te house finished my first project is gonna be the bonnet top high boy I have been dreaming about making since I started fine Woodworking. I might even dare make it a Binet top secretary. I already have the stock ready to go so nothing to stop me but all this other crap I have started.

Looks like you have adequate spacing to move around in there and work with material no problem.

[Jim Becker]

Those will be very fine projects to look forward to!

[Joe Calhoon]

Patrick,
curious if there is a coil inside the aluminum block? The purpose of the copper coil is still a mystery to me. Check voltage at the pump to see if you are getting 24 volts dc. Then check the rectifier to see if it is putting out. If not try using a drill battery to power the pump.

Joe,

I’m onto the the Mccmaster legs. Sadly Brian found me a $89 a piece option I just have to have. and you know I need like eight total with the two machines. So sadly they wait.

I also need adjustable as my floors are that wack. As it is now on the bolts I can easily get my low profile narrow for pallet jack under it. I thought about copying your wood feet but in plastic as I really really like them. But you know to get it perfectly level I’d have to build them different heights to level the machine. If I had a disk or edge sander it would be 123 no problem but I don’t.

No mine does not have a coil and the tank that hold the oil has a large aluminum block around it.

Let’s see if I can find a picture.

226E42B3-219C-49E9-9E58-E22425F467AA.jpg

It’s not circulating oil at all. I took the belt off and ran the machine for almost a hour today and not a single drip. I have no idea what it could be and am just praying that when I pull it apart I find a clog in a line or something obveous and easy to resolve.

If not with the motor bearings and this I could really have gotten myself into something. If I can’t figure it out I can always do the greased bearing swap but I really want the oil bath and honestly with everything going on would ot be able to afford to tend to the isssue for god knows how long.

It’s all good though as I’m totally committed to this machine even if it’s a long haul.

[Jared Sankovich]

Patrick,
curious if there is a coil inside the aluminum block? The purpose of the copper coil is still a mystery to me. Check voltage at the pump to see if you are getting 24 volts dc. Then check the rectifier to see if it is putting out. If not try using a drill battery to power the pump.

The only thing that makes sense was an attempt at using the coil as a cooler, though very poorly executed if that was the reason.

[Joe Calhoon]

I’ve thought about that also Jared but the return oil line is not even warm. Also thought it might be to slow the drip down but when I first had the machine the coil was gone and the drip the same. One drip every few seconds. Correct according to the manual.

[Malcolm McLeod]

.... I can bury the cable underground in conduit and have planned to for some time. But that’s a 18”x 20’ trench and a weekend with a rented mini excavator..

Scanning back thru and ^^this^^ caught my eye. You didn't indicate if this is wide or deep, but here electrical must be minimum of 4 feet below grade. Utility company will let you dig your own trench, but they lay the cable to their meter and the depth has to be right. DAMHIKT.

[Patrick Walsh]

Joe will do,

Matt actually called late last night, or rather texted and suggested a fuse also.

Been a long long crazy day.

It looks like I’ll be working at home starting tomorrow rather Wednesday after I get the giant pile of red oak hauled into my shop.

Per chance anyone know exactly what size bearings the motor in my shaper take. I’d like to get them ordered before everything close and I can’t get for god knows how long. I need my shaper working like yesterday now working from home.

Also if anyone with a comatic smart powerfeeder on the smart stand “and a steff feeder” on their standard stand could check the bolt pattern on the base for me and let me know if they are the same or close enough I can get at least three of the same bolts I’d appreciate it.

Sadly I may have to mount my steff on the machine and it’s wrecking my head to think I’ll just replace it with a comatic and then have three sets of holes in the table total as it all ready has been drilled once. I’m sure those holes fit nothing as it had a wicked old feeder on it.

Patrick,
curious if there is a coil inside the aluminum block? The purpose of the copper coil is still a mystery to me. Check voltage at the pump to see if you are getting 24 volts dc. Then check the rectifier to see if it is putting out. If not try using a drill battery to power the pump.

[Patrick Walsh]

Yeah code here saiz the electricians have to pull the permit for the trench “i think” I know the electrician I was gonna use said I could dig the trench under their permit.

And yes 18” deep is code in conduit but yes the utility company has to pull the wire and then your electrical makes the connection or so I believe?



.

Scanning back thru and ^^this^^ caught my eye. You didn't indicate if this is wide or deep, but here electrical must be minimum of 4 feet below grade. Utility company will let you dig your own trench, but they lay the cable to their meter and the depth has to be right. DAMHIKT.

[Jim Becker]

I dug the trench for my shop's power upgrade back in 2005 for the electrician as an alternative to him renting a ditching machine. That was one day after I purchased my small Kubota with the backhoe...it was an...experience. Definitely "on the job training"!!

[Patrick Walsh]

Son of a bad word for a mother.

You have Kubota!

God dam now I’m really jealous!

I’ve been thinking about buying a forklift and parking it in the driveway. I’d love a skid steer with forks on tracks but I can’t afford it. But many a kubota you my hero. Man crush major..

I dug the trench for my shop's power upgrade back in 2005 for the electrician as an alternative to him renting a ditching machine. That was one day after I purchased my small Kubota with the backhoe...it was an...experience. Definitely "on the job training"!!