Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Exterior Primer and Paint for Sapele?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    6,410

    Exterior Primer and Paint for Sapele?

    I'm going to build some house shutters, simple frames with glued in MDO panels. I'm not sure I can get 5/4 white pine, and cedar and Douglas fir are out because of $'s, but I know I can get Sapele. While it pains me to paint such a beautiful wood, sometimes you have to give in. Having never painted Sapele I'm asking the brain trust for recommendations. I'd like to spray them so I prefer waterborne products, but will consider others if I must. Key for me is resistance to peeling and durability. I stopped by Benjamin Moore today to pick up another product and ask the guy about it while I was there. He said oil based primer and Aura waterborne topcoat. Never used either one, so I have no clue about them. But Aura is available in any of BM's colors which is important since this will likely be a custom color.

    What say you all?

    John

  2. #2
    I don't agree with the oil primer advice. I like the Gripper primer that was first mentioned here by Jason Roehel.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    6,410
    Thanks Mel. I'm sure not motivated to use an OB prime or topcoat because I want to spray. Are you referring to the PPG or Glidden "Gripper"?

    John

  4. #4
    Yes,but I wish they would stop re-naming stuff. If you get some Gripper on your hands 20 seconds later you have to
    use a scrubby to remove it. Terrific hide quality ,too

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    6,410
    Uh, yes which?

    John

  6. #6
    Sorry I was not clear. Far as I know they are the same thing ,that's why I mentioned name changes.

  7. #7
    Net says GLIDDEN Sold to PPG and now not as good as it was. I don't see any difference. Anybody here used both and
    have an opinion ?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    4,592
    I'll try that Gripper the next time I have some exterior painting to do, which will be this Spring. I've still been using OB primer, but my favorite exterior paint is SW Emerald. I haven't used BM paint in a long time, but have no reason to switch from what's working for me.

    I've kept a cheap, single stage HVLP for spraying the OB primer, but always do it outside on a day with a light breeze (no neighbors within sight). It has to be thinned Way down to spray with the single stage, but I don't remember ever having to redo anything painted this way.

    Everything we've painted like this, since 2007 at least that I can remember, is pressure washed every year or two, and still looks like we just put it on. There is some exterior trim, on an addition to our house built in 2004, that was done when Duration was SW top of the line, and it still looks good too, although it doesn't get pressure washed as often.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Tom M King; 02-15-2020 at 7:07 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    6,410
    Thanks Mel. Seems like PPG is on a buying spree. They bought some (or maybe all?) of Sikkens product lines in the past couple of years. I bought a quart of Cetol Door and Window finish today and the can says PPG Prolux Cetol Door and Window, with New Name, Same Formula on the front label, too.

    Tom, I've always used SW exterior paint, too. I used Resilience on my shed doors a couple of years ago and they still look like day one. I noted that the info. on Emerald Acrylic says it is self sealing. Are you using primer under it?

    John

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    4,592
    I have always used primer. The thinned down OB soaks in some, so I always felt like it was worth the trouble. It's also easy to sand, if needed. Rub it once in each of two directions (back, and forth), with a sanding sponge, and it smooths right out.

    Even on paint that's failed on the old houses we work on, the old primer is almost always still good. I just hate to risk doing without it, especially doing it for someone else.

    The last shutters I built, we prepainted the parts before assembly. No glue was used on the M & T's, so the tenon shoulders were painted too, as well as the panel edges.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Tom M King; 02-15-2020 at 7:58 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    51,560
    I hear you on the 5/4 white pine...I just had to buy 117 bd ft of that "unicorn" for a client project that only requires 80 board feet because it had to be ordered in and was only available in lots. My supplier had to buy a couple grand of other stuff to make it happen, too. Apparently, there are only a few distributors/sources for "non construction" clear pine material as compared to the gazzillion sources for hardwoods!

    Best wishes on your shutter project.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    6,410
    Same here; 5/4 white pine is a special order and I'm pretty sure the min. order quantity will exceed my 40 BF need. But as I was looking for alternatives I found a local building/lumber supplier advertising western red cedar for reasonable prices and it's in stock, so I'm going to check into that to see if what they have is clear, KD lumber or construction grade stuff. Sourcing materials is often harder than building the project. Fortunately, the 1/2" MDO panel material is easy to get, although I still have to order it.

    John

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    4,592
    This is the stuff I built those shutters from. It was all from very old Cypress trees, cut down for a road project in the 1970's. It was all 16'7" long. No need to ask where it is. He's already said he won't sell any to anyone else. That isn't grain in the bottom piece-just saw marks.

    It might be worth setting up a Pro account with SW. The last time I bought some, it was on either 30 or 40 percent off, and they gave me a discount off the sale price, which put Emerald down close to the cost of Home Depot paint.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Tom M King; 02-16-2020 at 11:19 AM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    6,410
    Old cypruss is nice stuff I'm told. Never seen it up here in the NE.

    I have a pro account at SW's. I guess I asked enough of the right questions several years ago that the manager thought I knew what I was talking about and volunteered to set one up for me. Who was I to refuse? You are right; the savings is substantial. I've probably asked enough additional questios since then that they now regret having done it!

    John

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    51,560
    I would have loved to use something else for this projects, but for this client's project it must be the pine...doors for the lockers in an equestrian barn's lounge that are already framed in pine. Since it's doors, I'm not willing to chance the "construction lumber" type products, preferring to mill it from quality KD rough stock.

    Yes on the pro account at SW, too. The discounts come regularly, even for "small operators". And I can use my tax exemption for materials used for client projects, too, since the clients will get charged sales tax on the back end. The Duration paint has performed VERY well on our home's exterior trim.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •