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Thread: How is Unisaw Extension Table Constructed?

  1. #1

    How is Unisaw Extension Table Constructed?

    I bought a used 2015 52" Unisaw but it did not have a extension table top. It came with the legs. Not sure if there should have been iron under the table.
    My table will be closer to 42" and Ill cut down the rails.
    How is the table built? Did it have a wood or metal frame?
    Does it bolt into the cast iron extension and just supported by the legs on the other end?
    Does perhaps someone have a picture for some ideas.

    BTW will double as a router table so Ill be building a box under the router to supported by the table..
    Id be grateful for any insight and advise.
    Thank you

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
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    1,345
    All the stock fences I have seen on Uni's have two pieces of angle iron with holes/slots cut in them down the edges of the table ( long side). The top is just a piece of 3/4'' plywood or melamine. The legs screw on the bottom side. There is a piece of flat steel about 2.5'' wide that bolts to the side of the cast top in the table extension holes,it has more holes for the table to bolt to with three more pieces made from angle iron that screw to the underside of your table and then bolt to saw. So as you stated it bolts to saw and legs support other end. What fence do you have with that saw ? The design of your fence/and rails will help you figure out what you need.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,599
    Mikeís got the basics, Iíll just add that instead of just a piece of melamine, supports are generally added under the melamine to eliminate sag.

    Do some google searching, tons of information about it. Try searches like ďUnisaw extension wing router tableĒ.

    I just picked up another Uni and will be building a dual saw station so Iíll be building another table soon.

  4. #4
    It bolts onto the saw. Mine from '95 is metal. I will get you a pic tomorrow.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    All the stock fences I have seen on Uni's have two pieces of angle iron with holes/slots cut in them down the edges of the table ( long side). The top is just a piece of 3/4'' plywood or melamine. The legs screw on the bottom side. There is a piece of flat steel about 2.5'' wide that bolts to the side of the cast top in the table extension holes,it has more holes for the table to bolt to with three more pieces made from angle iron that screw to the underside of your table and then bolt to saw. So as you stated it bolts to saw and legs support other end. What fence do you have with that saw ? The design of your fence/and rails will help you figure out what you need.
    I see. Thats a big help. It has a Biesemeyer 52" but Im going to cut it down to about 40". From your description I see that Im missing the is the steel that mounts to the cast iron table and holds that end of the table. It sounds like angle iron lip the table sits on?. Whats not clear to me is how the table sits flush against the cast iron? Is there a picture somewhere you know off? or can one purchase this table mounting bracket? Awesome help. thanks for your generous share.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Hendershott View Post
    It bolts onto the saw. Mine from '95 is metal. I will get you a pic tomorrow.
    a pic would be awesome. Thank you

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,599
    https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/m...ion-table-saw/

    This should help.

    You are also capable of using a search engine. Try it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    I tossed the original junk piece, and made one with 3/4" Birch ply, reinforced with aluminum angles underneath, and Formica on the top. I did keep the front, and back angles that a fence bolts to, and the legs. The Unisaw is my jobsite saw.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Between No Where & No Place ,WA
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    1,107
    My old circa 1986 Uni-saw had the 52" Uni-fence. The top warped and I replaced it. I always felt the original design, fabrication, and materials never seemed too robust.

    Back about 1989, I built a table from 2x4" stock (AKA tub-ba-four), 3/4" white melamine for the top. Fitted it between the saw and Uni-fence front rail. Grooved the legs to accept 1/2" pyw'd panels for rigidity and screwed a 1/2" lag screw to each leg bottom for leveling purpose. Then screwed it all to Uni-fence front rail. Front and back were left open for storage area under the table.

    I sold the Uni-saw back in 2016 and the new owner uses the same table.`

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/m...ion-table-saw/

    This should help.

    You are also capable of using a search engine. Try it.
    thanks. That journal was helpful. He bolted the wood sub frame of the router table directly to the iron table and I assume to the fences angle iron which is predrilled.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    196
    Often, Iím just finishing up one of these. Iíll post photos tomorrow, including a dust box that fits under the router.

    Why shorten the fence rails?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    McDonald, PA
    Posts
    110
    Absolutely hated the original side table and the mobile base that came with it. I replaced mine with the empty cabinet, 2nd table and a Peachtree cast iron router wing and two Portamate 3550 mobile bases. Not show are the delta sliding table and miter gauge extension. Also have an HTC outfeed table that I plan to mount on a rod so that I can move it to any portion of the backside of the table.

    unisaw extension.jpg
    Last edited by Ron Hampe; 02-13-2020 at 4:50 AM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    4,522
    Another way to go is to google for the on line manual for the Unisaw. Mine has an addendum manual that covers the standard table that was optional. It has pics and drawings.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Jones 5443 View Post
    Often, Iím just finishing up one of these. Iíll post photos tomorrow, including a dust box that fits under the router.

    Why shorten the fence rails?

    A picture would be very helpful. thanks! the reason to cut the 52" is that it wont fit width wise in my 1 car garage shop. Cut it or buy a fence with shorter rails, $350ish and sell my 52" rails, fence and legs. Probably makes sense just to mod what I have.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by orren countin View Post
    A picture would be very helpful. thanks! the reason to cut the 52" is that it wont fit width wise in my 1 car garage shop. Cut it or buy a fence with shorter rails, $350ish and sell my 52" rails, fence and legs. Probably makes sense just to mod what I have.
    I decided, years ago, that my 52" biesemeyer was just too wide for my shop (at the time) and the work I did. It was surprisingly easy to find someone to trade fences.. in my case I went to a unifence (which I actually view as an upgrade). We traded everything, including the extension tables.

    FWIW, the tables are really cheaply made, and yea my manual shows how to make one.
    ~mike

    scope creep

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