[OP]
Member
I have been given a used jet DC-1100vx
Wired to 110v.
I am going to build a small leanto on the back wall of my 20x24 shop.
I will house my DC, and a yet to be purchased air compressor.
I will put the dc on a 20a circuit and the ac on a separate 20a circuit.
I want to be able to turn these on and off from inside the shop.
One suggestion is to connect a heavy duty switch inline to control the outlet.
This would be a separate switch and outlet for each.
Thoughts and suggestions?
Thanks
Mike
Member
What you've outlined with a disconnect on each should work fine.
Alternative is to find a DPST (dbl-pole, single throw) relay with a 120VAC coil for each. From CB, connect power for the DC to poles 1&2 of relay, then run to the DC plug. From separate CB, connect power for the AC to poles 1&2 of the second relay, then run to the AC plug.
Use 2 simple light switches to power the coil of each relay - could be sourced from any 120VAC circuit in the shop (should be ~1/2Amp each to the coils).
Leave the tools 'on' (outside) and just use the switches for power on/off as needed.
Add: No matter if manual disconnect or relay, consider some type of 'ON indication' so you don't leave them active? If using a relay, you could switch it with a lighted switch. A pilot light could be used for either method.
Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 02-12-2020 at 1:40 PM.
[OP]
Member
Any suggestions for some type of light to be used with a manual switch?
I have seen those lighted switches, but I am not sure if they are heavy enough to handle the load?
They make 20 amp light switches with indicator lights that would do what you want to do.ETW-AH1221PL.jpg
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 02-12-2020 at 8:01 PM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
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[OP]
Member
Not sure why but I can't open the jpgOriginally Posted by Lee Schierer
However I get the idea. I think platt electric will have these.
Mike
Member
I didn't search for 'pilot light 240VAC', but this should get you to someone who carries such. You didn't mention the voltage for both tools, but that will make a big difference in cost ... if 240VAC, then the P/L will have a transformer built in (the bulb itself will be 12 or 24 VDC, typically). Same for 120VAC. Also beware, I tend to default to the devices I'm most familiar with. They run to the industrial side, with prices to match.
Lee's idea is just as good. The image he links looks to be single-pole (good for 120VAC) - just break the 'hot' wire across the switch, then hot & neutral go to the plug. If you've got 240VAC Air Comp, then you'll need a double pole version of the switch and break both hot legs across the switch.
Member
DC remote switch.
Pretty sure this is the one that I have. Says 50' distance, mine does at least 300' through a metal building.
https://www.rockler.com/dust-collector-remote-switch
Contributor
Many ac units have a digital thermostats and will not turn on just because the power has been connected. You have to program the thermostat and digitally tell it to turn on. If this is a Air Compresser ignore this advice. From this question I do not think you are comfortable to bypass the digital controls and hard wire the compressor and fan controls.
Bill D
[OP]
Member
My error AC is air compressor
Both AC and DC (dust collector) are 120v
Moderator
I do a similar thing and have my DC and compressor switched from outside the closet. Both of mine are 5hp 230v motors The DC uses a contactor (relay) and is controlled from a 110v switch and some remote electronics in the main shop. The compressor uses a heavy duty 230v toggle switch made to be a motor disconnect. I don't want to go into the closet to disconnect either of them.
I do have a control circuit disabling switch in the closet for the DC. It has a pilot light so I can tell if the circuit is active. I duplicate it (wired in series) in the main shop so I know if the system is active and can deactivate it desired. I also have a light switch in the closet that turns on a light so I don't have to work in the dark.
You can't see the images since the forum was changed last year to require a trivial contribution to help it keep running. It's only $6 a year minimum. Contributor status has several benefits besides viewing the images. Details here: https://sawmillcreek.org/payments.php
JKJ
[OP]
Member
That is nice but for $100.00 I'll walk to the back wall 🙂
Member
I bought mine and never looked back. Been working for 12 years now with the original battery in the FOB. Not sure if I paid $100 for it, I think I paid $80. I have mine connected to a contactor that starts and stops my 3HP 3Ph booth fan. You only spend the money once and installation takes a couple of minutes. For me it was a no brainer.
Member
For 120V, I would just use regular 20A light switches to turn power off for the outlet. You can have just one outlet if you break the connection between the two female plugs and run power to each from the switch (hot side, neutral and ground do not get switched). Very simple and inexpensive. If you are not sure the lean to will be 100% water proof, you might want to use a GFCI outlet. They are a little more but will just trip if the outlet gets wet. They you reset once it's dry again.
Contributor
If you purchase a "light switch" for this application make sure it's rated for the motor HP.............Regards, Rod.
Contributor
For 110v DC, which I believe is the same unit I have, I use the iVac switch and sensors. It also comes with a remote that lives in a tray on my table saw.
When I turn my tools on, the DC comes on and goes off 10-15 seconds after I power the tool off. If I need to just use the DC for a bit of cleanup, I just use the remote to power it on and off.
My Air Compressor is on all the time, cycles about once a day when air is not being used. Been this way for about 20 years now.
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