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Thread: Resawing 2' stock

  1. #1
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    Resawing 2' stock

    I scored some 2' wide old-growth clear white pine that's now dry and stable. Planks are between 10/4 and 12/4. I'd like to resaw it to 4/4 for a batch of sea chests. It's too wide for my bandsaw, local sawmill won't/can't deal with it, and I haven't found anyone local (Cape Cod) with a portable bandsaw mill. I'm tempted to get a Roubo frame saw and have at it. I'd guess it's between 100 and 150 lineal feet of sawing, so it seems like a handful for a handsaw, but I'm game to try. I've also thought about ripping in half (width-wise) and then gluing back up, but that seems like a less preferable option.

    Before buying a frame handsaw, I'd appreciate any comments from folks who dealt with this.
    Last edited by Josko Catipovic; 02-11-2020 at 10:29 AM.

  2. #2
    If you aren't willing to expand your search for a portable bandsaw mill, there has to be someone near Boston or in Maine. Try looking on the Woodmizer site or Norwood site. Otherwise by hand is your only option.

  3. #3
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    Call around to local wood working shops? You might be able to work something out with them. I know a few youtubers with nice equipment have mentioned renting it out on occasion to other wood workers.

    If you DO decide to go the hand route, I'd suggest running it through a table saw on both sides first. It will save some effort, give some room for the wood to twist and pinch, and help guide your saw blade.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. I did get access to a 2' jointer and planer that way at a local boatbuilder. I'll cast out a wider net for bandsaw mill(ers). Still, how well do those large Roubo framesaws work?
    And yes, I was planning to kerf in both sides of the cut on the tablesaw.

  5. #5
    Agreed, there are without a doubt dozens of woodmizer owners within an hour of your location that could resaw for you. Piece of cake for a bit of windshield time.

  6. #6
    "less preferable" is relative.

    To me, ripping them into managable sections is way more preferable than manually resawing it tall for a batch of chests.

    Also, when you resaw - especially stuff you've dried on your own - it's hard to anticipate the movement after resaw. Ripping will give you narrower boards that require less work to get them flat (and with less waste) than wide boards. Ripping narrow gives you the ability to remove sections close to the pith, orient for stability and pattern match, and minimize growth ring arcs.

    There appears to be a strong bias for people to maintain original width at all costs. But there are huge gains in terms of handling and stability by narrowing things.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    and stability
    Thats my #1. We run a lot of hard maple and get boards that are 12-14 inches wide on a regular basis and even my help argues with regards to leaving them wide for panels and so on as opposed to breaking them into glue ups. They dont take into account when one decides to take a left hook down the road and roaches the entire project.

  8. #8
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    There's a reason saw mills went from man power with a pit saw, to water power. If you need convincing, try resawing a 2x12 by hand and see how long it takes. Then double it with the double width. Not sure I would have even attempted that 40 years ago when I started woodworking! I'm guessing you would have over 100 hours in hand sawing those 20" boards, including time to bandage blisters. Band saw mill will have it done in less than 1.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    It's been years since I've looked but Home Depot use to rent a Makita circular saw with a 16 5/16" blade with a max depth of cut of over 6". With a fence and some patience you should be able to get good results. If you don't mind spending a few bucks for around $400 or so you can buy a used one off of ebay and then sell it after you are done without loosing much.

  10. #10
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    Can a Roubo frame saw be made wide enough to deal with a 24” wide board.

    I agree with Prashun, I like keeping wide boards wide but there is a strong possibility that this turns the material into a scrap pile. Less chance of that at the narrower width.

    I’d stash this away for a project in which it can be used full width.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #11
    There is another option. Your 10/4 stock is perfect for Windsor chair seats. Sell to a chair maker at a profit and buy 4/4 white pine. Lots of that available in your neck of the woods.

  12. #12
    What's your resaw capacity? Jointer? Planer? No point in milling it to 4/4 if you can't dress it afterwards. A Woodmizer type saw is unlikely to leave surfaces flat enough to work with. In my situation, I'd rip it down to 16" and resaw it with the equipment I had.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josko Catipovic View Post
    ...I haven't found anyone local (Cape Cod) with a portable bandsaw mill...
    https://woodmizer.com/us/Find-a-Local-Sawyer

  14. #14
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    Guys, the whole point of doing sea chests is they were traditionally made with full-width white pine planks, occasionally showing grain continuity across corners and bookmatch between front and top. https://books.google.com/books?id=xA...page&q&f=false
    Mystic seaport and New Bedford whaling museum have intriguing examples still hanging together after who knows how many decades at sea back in the 1800. Most are 18" tall with a 5-10 degree inward slope, calling for ~20" planks.When I saw this wood, seachests flashed right to my mind. White pine ones were just lighter enough to carry than mahogany, and the design evolved robust enough to deal with shipboard banging and abuse.
    As I mentioned, I do have access to a 2' planer and jointer - just need to figure out how to resaw them. The Woodmizer-man search is on.
    Last edited by Josko Catipovic; 02-11-2020 at 10:18 PM.

  15. #15
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    Those matches we’re probably sawn wet, then dried and retained as a boule. When you resaw really wide, dry material, often enough it will not behave well.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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