Resawing 2' stock

[John K Jordan]

Those matches we’re probably sawn wet, then dried and retained as a boule. When you resaw really wide, dry material, often enough it will not behave well.

I wonder if you could resaw them on a bandsaw mill if you sandwiched the planks between heavy, straight slabs to keep them flat. I'd worry otherwise about relieved stress in the dry wood causing cupping during the cut. The alignment would need to be perfect. Maybe find a 20" dia log, slice it down the middle, then put the boards between the halves and resaw while sandwiched. Might protect the dry boards from the moisture in the wet wood with plywood or something. Just imagining, no experience with that. I have no idea what to do about lubrication which is usually a stream of water.

I've cut a lot of dry wood on my Woodmizer but only straightening beams and edging, never resawing like that.

I thnk I'd saw it very slowly.

[lowell holmes]

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Jointers-pl...rs_and_Planers


I have the lower price Dewalt and it performs to suit me.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Alex's method: Not something I'd want to try, but.... 16" circular saw. Watch your fingers! And leg.

"https://waco.craigslist.org/tld/d/waco-woodworker/7055757352.html"

[Jim Becker]

Bandmill for sure with attention to keep them flat though the cut. And then there's another round of drying before you use them as the moisture content is absolutely going to be different between the existing surfaces and the newly cut ones. I'm absolutely with you on using the material wide...I live for that kind of thing. But it does require patience and care relative to moisture and movement.

[lowell holmes]

You can rip boards with a straight 1X4 for a straight edge using a skilsaw.

[Prashun Patel]

Lowell, what am I missing? He's asking how to resaw, not rip.

[Jared Sankovich]

You can rip boards with a straight 1X4 for a straight edge using a skilsaw.

Didnt know a skill saw could have a 24" depth of cut.. that 50" blade must be rather unwieldy handheld.

[Jim Becker]

You can rip boards with a straight 1X4 for a straight edge using a skilsaw.

This isn't a ripping situation...it's about re-sawing.

[Josko Catipovic]

So this pine's been in my shop for three years, after spending a year outdoors in a covered shed. It measures at 9%, and it'll likely go a percent or so higher in summer. Will it become more stable if I let it sit another year, or is it what it is now?

[Jim Becker]

So this pine's been in my shop for three years, after spending a year outdoors in a covered shed. It measures at 9%, and it'll likely go a percent or so higher in summer. Will it become more stable if I let it sit another year, or is it what it is now?

The small challenge you face is that the moisture content on the "inside" is never going to be the same as the "outside" where you are measuring. So you can expect some initial movement when you first resaw these wide and currently thick boards into thinner stock. It will be necessary to stack and sticker with weight and allow them to further dry....whether or not you intend to use them air dried or also get them finished in a kiln. This is the reality of pretty much all thicker lumber/slabs when it comes to pairing them down to thinner pieces. Letting things sit another year "as is" isn't going to change this, so personally, I'd get it milled now and use the additional time for the resawn pieces to dry properly before you start your project(s).

[Brian Holcombe]

If you're dead set on resawing it then do so and you'll learn a lot about the board in short order, it very well may come out perfectly but personally I wouldn't do it because I expect that when the stock is so wide it'll cup almost guaranteed, so if it cups at 24" wide and 4/4 then you'll be at 3/8" thick boards before you know it. Chance that the stock won't even be usable, so I would just leave it as is and find a project suitable to material that heavy.

[kent wardecke]

I had some old longest pine beams drawn. They came out fine. The problem is that the metal pins that holds the material in place limits the last piece to about 6/4. So you're going to get one plank from each board unless you can improve the method of securing the material.
It's old right straight trained pine thoroughly dried. I would be surprised if there are any surprises when it's resawn.
Use the Woodmizer site and make some calls. Some guys won't be interested but I'm sure you can find someone,you aren't the first guy in New England to want to resaw some old wood

[peter gagliardi]

A woodmizer that is operating properly and has a proper operator, can, and will cut accurately enough for this job with ease.
They can take 3/32" layers of veneer off that stock one piece after another- in other works they are extremely accurate.

I do not know if you can still get them, but Blackburn Tools I believe would have, or did have parts and kits to make your own Roubo style saw, including blades. That style saw is very controllable, and quite quick for what your doing- it ain't a race.

The material is not likely to get much more stable at this point.

Stability over width actually gets a bit better in my experience if dried properly, and good material. 24" is wide. 12" not so much, but it appears to have more to do with how the tree grew, AND having a mix of flatsawn going to rift or even quartered on the edges. Also has to do with diameter of tree to start.

I think you are on the right track, if you picked your material well.

[Geoff Crimmins]

If you can't find someone with a bandmill near you, then you could use a chainsaw mill, or just plane it down to the thickness you need. I know that's rather wasteful, but it beats cutting it by hand.

[johnny means]

All the seasoning in the world won't relieve internal stresses. Those will only be revealed by cutting. Imagine two opposed leaf springs bolted together. The stored energy will be there until you take them apart.