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Thread: “Reversible” shaper cutter head setup help needed

  1. #1
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    “Reversible” shaper cutter head setup help needed

    I’ve had this cutter in my box of stuff that came with my shaper. It looks really handy, but I cannot find any setup instructions.

    Amana references it as “reversible”. Does this mean I cut rail, flip cutter, reverse shaper motor direction, cut stile?

    or:

    Cut rail, move head up/down, cut stile?

    I cannot imagine its the latter, as I thought the advantage of this type of bit is to not have to make adjustments between rail/stile. Anyone?


    edit: not sure if the attached photo is working. The cutter is Amana part# A-32-100


    EE58F2B3-38EE-407C-B1F9-5269A7806806.jpg
    Last edited by Matt Roth; 02-10-2020 at 9:19 AM.

  2. #2
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    I would just set it up on your shaper and try it out.I have never used a cutter like that one and see what you are asking,it seems it could work either way.It should not take long to figure it out.

  3. #3
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    Have you tried contacting Amana? They have a chat window at their website for this cutter.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  4. #4
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    That’s my plan if I cannot find someone that can shorten my learning curve!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Have you tried contacting Amana? They have a chat window at their website for this cutter.
    I didn’t notice this last night while digging around on their website! I’ll check it out now! Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Those type cutters you usually raise or lower the shaft. Looks like it shares the same profile for both cope and stick. You also may need to flip the stock between cope and stick. Easy to use if you have a DRO on the shaft.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Those type cutters you usually raise or lower the shaft. Looks like it shares the same profile for both cope and stick. You also may need to flip the stock between cope and stick. Easy to use if you have a DRO on the shaft.
    That sounds like solid argument to find a digital readout.

  8. #8
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    I have a insert head like that. I flip the head and reverse rotation when sticking that way I can cope in the normal configuration. Both are run face down.

    20190919_185335.jpg
    Last edited by Jared Sankovich; 02-10-2020 at 10:40 AM.

  9. #9
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    [QUOTE=Jared Sankovich;2991055]I have a insert head like that. I flip the head and reverse rotation when sticking that way I can cope in the normal configuration. Both are run face down.

    20190919_185335.jpg[/

    QUOTE]

    Not sure why I didn’t think to use dial indicator like this. Already have this setup on hand.

  10. #10
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    Figure the distance and make a spacer that thick so no adjutments to spindle height are needed.
    Bil lD

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Figure the distance and make a spacer that thick so no adjutments to spindle height are needed.
    Bil lD
    Are you suggesting a spacer that sits on the shaper table?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Roth View Post
    Are you suggesting a spacer that sits on the shaper table?

    I meant on the spindle but a table top spacer would be easier to do with wood tools.
    Bil lD

  13. #13
    The reversible thing should mean that the profiles are a matching dimension from each face. So you run your sticking, then flip the cutter over and reverse your motor rotation and the coping should work out correctly. "Should".

    Making the insert to leave the cutter in one location will only work if your setup is EXTREMELY accurate and/or you machine your doors with extra material that then go through the sander to flatten them (the most common way doors are made in quantity). If you tend to work closer to your final dimensions and you have to change spindle height (what we do with a similar insert head from Stark) you will most definitely benefit from a DRO (no shaper that does a lot of different setups should be without one in my opinion).

    Look for an igaging dro set (three pieces made for bridgeport style milling machines). Usually pretty cheap. 150 bucks. You will have three of them, one with a long scale, one with an intermediate scale, and one short scale. The scales can be cut to any needed lenght. You can put the other two on other machines (planer, sander, TS, jointer, router table). The igaging DRO's read to .0005. You will want a DRO that reads in .001 minimum (not like Wixey which I believe still reads in .005").

  14. #14
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    Ok, I did wind up speaking to Amana tech support. They support all methods mentioned above. It is made to flip cutter head and reverse motor, (and feed from opposite direction)

    Hope this thread helps someone else! Thanks all!

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