Furniture Carcus joint fasteners and/or glue

[michael dilday]

I built a dresser and rabbeted the sides to the bottom. The top was just a flush butt joint with end grain showing. I glued all the joints and fastened with screws thru the bottom into the sides and on the top I used pocket screws. Is this the correct way to construct the carcass? Should I glue it? Are pocket screws ok for the top? My next piece is the tall chest.

[Richard Coers]

I don't know where or how to start. Where did you see how to build furniture like that? Correct way? You don't say anything about a face frame, dust boards, solid wood or plywood, or back. Right now you have nothing to prevent racking when or if you ever try to move it. I would be afraid to even move it around the shop like that, you have very little strength with pocket screws. Any joint, ALWAYS needs glue.

[johnny means]

I don't know where or how to start. Where did you see how to build furniture like that? Correct way? You don't say anything about a face frame, dust boards, solid wood or plywood, or back. Right now you have nothing to prevent racking when or if you ever try to move it. I would be afraid to even move it around the shop like that, you have very little strength with pocket screws. Any joint, ALWAYS needs glue.

Condescending, a little?

A peice like a dresser that doesn't get moved around a lot, will survive just fine with an adequate number of screws in the right places. Common practice is that a little glue is a cheap and easy way to make things a little stronger.

[michael dilday]

It is a mid-century modern design with no face frame. Inset drawers. It is made of 3/4 soft maple with a 3/4 plywood bottom. The back is 1/4 plywood. The drawer dividers are poplar frames glued and doweled with hardboard glued and stapled with a 5/8 soft maple front pocket screwed to the center vertical divider and the sides. The top horizontal divider is 3/4 ply. The legs have 2.5" rails across and depth to support. I did glue all joints before screwing them.

Michelle's Dresser - 1 of 3.jpgMichelle's Dresser - 2 of 3.jpgMichelle's Dresser - 3 of 3.jpg

[Jim Becker]

From what I can see in your photos, you did keep the grain/board orientations consistent so most movement will be front to back. I think you'll be fine. You do need to be careful mixing species, but I think you'll be fine with the maple and poplar based on my personal experience.

[Ron Selzer]

Very nice workmanship
I see nothing wrong with what you did, the back and horizontal dividers will definitely keep it from racking.
I would be slightly hesitant to pickup by the top only, probably would survive that ok until it doesn't.
Good luck
Ron

[Richard Coers]

Gluing and screwing plywood to solid wood is a definite problem. It ignores the seasonal wood movement of the solid wood which will result in splitting or bowing of the solid wood.

[michael dilday]

Thanks Jim. I did not glue the poplar to the maple sides - just pocket screws. Should allow necessary movement. It seems real solid as I cannot rack it if I try. Just trying to make sure I am joining properly with Titebond II and pocket screws on the sides, top and bottom.

[Richard Coers]

Thanks Jim. I did not glue the poplar to the maple sides - just pocket screws. Should allow necessary movement. It seems real solid as I cannot rack it if I try. Just trying to make sure I am joining properly with Titebond II and pocket screws on the sides, top and bottom.

Sorry, I thought you said you glued and screwed the solid sides to a plywood bottom.

[glenn bradley]

I also think you will be OK. I would have chosen an alternate joinery method maybe. Something I do is glue the first few inches in front on a panel that will be allowed to expand and contract (via pocket holes in your case). This keeps the front elevations consistent throughout the year so you get very minimal movement at the 'in your face' show areas. I should clarify that this method is for items that will back against a wall. For things like tables that stand in the middle of a room I glue at the middle and let things move outward and inward from the center point.

[Lee Schierer]

I build dresser much the same way as yours. I use pocket screws to attach the frames to solid sides (no glue). The way I do it is to install all frames with pocket screws, then lightly mark their position on the inside of the side panels with a pencil. Then I remove each frame one at a time and elongate the pocket holes where they come out of the end of the frame except for the two screws that are on the front of that frame. I reinstall the frame using the same holes that all the screws made in the side panels. This allows for seasonal movement between the long grain of your frames and the cross grain of your panels. I've used this method for over 15 years with no issues with side panels.

Pocket hoes to attach the top are fine as the top and the side panels of your dresser have the same grain orientation and will move together. Coating the inside of your dresser with finish will slow all seasonal dimension changes by sealing up the wood.