Router table inserts

[Günter VögelBerg]

I am building a new router table. I am going to make the insert plate myself out of a piece of 1/4 aluminum, mostly because I happen to have the aluminum already. I will need to make inserts, though. What do you think is the best material to use? I have a lot of aluminum and can use that. I could also use a plastic like hdpe. But my question is this:

All the router tables I have used have a notch, screw, or other apparatus to prevent the insert from rotating in the plate. Is this important? My ability to machine the aluminum is pretty rudimentary and I'm not sure I can do much more than make a disc that goes i to a hole.

[John Ziebron]

If you plan on using a large, heavy router, like 3+ HP, I would think 1/4" aluminum would not be stiff enough. 3/8" would be a better choice and use the 1/4" material to make your inserts. You need to have a way for the inserts to not "fall through" and the 3/8" material will allow you to create a 1/8" thick ledge at the bottom of the hole to prevent that.

It is not important if the inserts can rotate but they must be secured to the point that vibration will not allow them to pop up and hit a spinning router bit when there is no stock there. Assuming that you have a metal lathe to make the round inserts a simple solution would be to cut a groove around the middle of the insert edge for a small cross section diameter O ring. Plan the groove depth so a slight protrusion of the O ring would allow the insert to fit snugly in the router plate hole. This idea was used on a router plate I bought 30 years ago and I never had and insert come loose in the many years I used it.

I know you said that you have the aluminum stock to do this but unless you have the free time, have the necessary machinery and enjoy doing a project like this you would be better off just buying one.

[Carroll Courtney]

Since you have lot of aluminum,how bout making a hole say for straight bits that 3/4 bit would clean then anything smaller will work with that plate.The make another plate for one of you larger profile bits,then another plate for what ever. Yes having insert plate that will not move is important,well to me it is so that don't move into your cutter. I had made myself several router plate out of plexiglass

[Günter VögelBerg]

I guess I never thought about just making multiple plates. That would be easier. It would take a little more work to change bits, but I could probably live with that. My router is the big Milwaukee. I think it is 3 hp. My aluminum stock is 8 inches wide. If I don't cut out the circle do you still think it will sag? I don't mind buying some 3/8 if I need to.

[Rick Potter]

I had an aluminum plate years ago, and had a problem with it leaving black marks on the work. I was told if it had been anodized, it would not be a problem.

Just sayin'.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I had an aluminum plate years ago, and had a problem with it leaving black marks on the work. I was told if it had been anodized, it would not be a problem.

Correct - plus the anodized is much harder and far less prone to scratching.
In addition - I question how strong 1/4" aluminum is. That's one big reason I sprung the buck for a Woodpeckers 3/8" plate (which has a threaded opening BTW & takes the screw in Woodpeckers inserts).

Note - I don't work for Woodpeckers - just a very, very, very satisfied customer.

[Günter VögelBerg]

It would definitely make more sense to just buy one, but I was looking at the aluminum pieces I have and got it in my head that it would be fun to make my own. I am going to pick up a piece of 3/8 aluminum and for the inserts I will use the 1/4 and drop them into a 1/4 deep rabbet (prob not right work). I think I will then tap holes into both the inserts and the plate and use some machine screws. I change the inserts randomly enough that I don't think having to use a screwdriver will be too bothersome. I will keep one on a magnet in front of the table.


Now I need to research anodizing...

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have this spare router top, never used, with the MagLock inserts. If you re in the USA, it's yours for $45 shipped.

[Tom Dixon]

It would definitely make more sense to just buy one, but I was looking at the aluminum pieces I have and got it in my head that it would be fun to make my own. I am going to pick up a piece of 3/8 aluminum and for the inserts I will use the 1/4 and drop them into a 1/4 deep rabbet (prob not right work). I think I will then tap holes into both the inserts and the plate and use some machine screws. I change the inserts randomly enough that I don't think having to use a screwdriver will be too bothersome. I will keep one on a magnet in front of the table.


Now I need to research anodizing...

Anodizing isn't terribly hard but it is a bit dangerous working with sulfuric acid. The biggest problem is the larger the surface area to be anodized the more DC power is needed and power supplies can be expensive. There are some inexpensive Chinese ones available on AliExpress and Banggood. There are formulas for calculating the power you need as well as videos and how to docs on the internet for Anodizing. I would recommend you anodize your plate material before doing any fabrication so that you are starting with a nice scratch free surface.

I love making shop tools that don't exist but for something like a router plate or router lift, the ones commercially available are so good and the prices are very reasonable. By the time you get a decent power source, the acid and containers to anodize your plate you could have bought a couple from MLCS and would be well on your way to the cost of something like a JessEm lift.

[Günter VögelBerg]

Ok, you guys and your common sense. I ordered the MLCS plate. This is because I am a sane man who never wastes time or money on ridiculous ideas.

[Günter VögelBerg]

Also...anyone want some aluminum?

[Thomas McCurnin]

I have quarter inch stainless steel and made perhaps 4 inserts for various sizes of router bits for my table. I would not see any problem with aluminum however, I use a very heavy old Porter Cable Speedmaster under the table.