Honing Oil - applying it to a stone in the correct ammount

[mike stenson]

I use the ironically named Lily White Sewing Machine oil bought a number of years ago. LW oil is refined so it has a non-gummy character to keep sewing machines running freely. I have used it for honing with good results. It is my belief that this is a paraffin base oil. I dispense from a triggered oil can.

same thing, in one of these

[Rafael Herrera]

Mineral oil, known also as paraffin, is the main ingredient of baby oil, sewing machine oil, some lamp oils, some honing oils, some laxatives, etc. It's sold under some fancy labels at a higher price, but the bottom line is it's just mineral oil.

[mike stenson]

Mineral oil, known also as paraffin, is the main ingredient of baby oil, sewing machine oil, some lamp oils, some honing oils, some laxatives, etc. It's sold under some fancy labels at a higher price, but the bottom line is it's just mineral oil.

FWIW, sewing machine oil is a whole lot cheaper than honing oil, or wd40, and I use it for other things (like sewing machines, where it's clarity is a requirement.. and vintage turntables, where it was originally spec'd anyway)

[Jim Koepke]

Mineral oil is available in most large grocery stores in the pharmacy aisles. It is often labeled as a Lubricant/Laxative. This in my consideration would be a food grade product, safe for use on cutting boards.

It may also be available in Feed & Farm supply stores by the gallon. It is used on horses hooves. Ask for the MSDS (Manufacturers Safety Data Sheet). It may not be the same as the food grade product available in grocery stores and drug stores. It may also be more expensive at the Feed & Farm stores. This may not be considered a food grade product, but likely okay for knives and such as long as it is washed after sharpening. For my liking, it wouldn't be used on a cutting board if the MSDS didn't indicate it was safe (or not dangerous) for human consumption.

jtk

[Warren Mickley]

With regard to mineral oil, refined does not mean free from impurities or food safe. Mineral oil is a mixture of oils of various molecular weights, various volatility and various viscosity. When it is refined the heaviest stuff and lightest stuff is removed so that the oil , though still a mixture, is in a tighter range, and will not thicken from evaporation over time. There is a reason that clock oil can cost $4 and $10 an ounce. It has nothing to do with being food safe, or a fancy label. The price is a reflection of the work to refine the oil.

[James Pallas]

I guess I’m a little thick, pun intended. How much oil is too much. I like to see enough to push around some so I know it’s carrying off swarf. I honestly don’t know. I learned from those that just said put plenty so it floats away the swarf or your stone will get loaded. Wipe it off when your done or it will settle on the stone. Wipe it lightly with a sweeping motion so you don’t press it in. Correct me if I’m wrong. Been using food grade mineral oil (Drug store) no additives for 50 or so years.

[Halgeir Wold]

Baby oil is usually light mineral oil with paraffin and a few other additives - with our without perfumes....

[Rafael Herrera]

James, I wouldn't presume to tell you what to do if you've been using mineral oil for 50 years, I rather hear from you if you're having problems with your stones. Raf

[Andrew Pitonyak]

That looks very similar to my first oilstone set purchased at a Woodcraft store. The oil flow can be controlled by squeezing the bottle lightly after it is opened before tipping it to pour. After tipping release pressure to control the flow.

Good tip. I should give that a try. But now that you say it, it makes a lot of sense.

[ken hatch]

I guess I’m a little thick, pun intended. How much oil is too much. I like to see enough to push around some so I know it’s carrying off swarf. I honestly don’t know. I learned from those that just said put plenty so it floats away the swarf or your stone will get loaded. Wipe it off when your done or it will settle on the stone. Wipe it lightly with a sweeping motion so you don’t press it in. Correct me if I’m wrong. Been using food grade mineral oil (Drug store) no additives for 50 or so years.

James has it correct.

Two problems with this thread. First is obsessing over lubricant, as long as it will carry off the swarf almost any thing will work. Maybe some are better than others but mostly it makes no never mind. Second is it isn't a problem of getting too much lubricant but needing to get enough to hold and remove the metal cuttings.

Of course as always YMMV,

ken

[mike stenson]

James has it correct.

Two problems with this thread. First is obsessing over lubricant, as long as it will carry off the swarf almost any thing will work. Maybe some are better than others but mostly it makes no never mind. Second is it isn't a problem of getting too much lubricant but needing to get enough to hold and remove the metal cuttings.

Of course as always YMMV,

ken

We tend to make things far more difficult and complicated than they should be, don't we?

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Oil is a lubricant and this will minimize the effectiveness of grinding. When using a natural stone then water is a better option if it is new and has not been oiled before.

[ken hatch]

Oil is a lubricant and this will minimize the effectiveness of grinding. When using a natural stone then water is a better option if it is new and has not been oiled before.

I'm setting in a dark box with nothing to do for four hours, so I have plenty of time to reply to threads that interest me. For some sick reason I find this one interesting.

Marinus,

I have a question, do you grind on natural stones? Or just hone and polish.

ken

[steven c newman]

Hey...just another typical "Sharpening" thread around here....

Might even be some Caveman come along, and saying he just pees on his stones....

just a bead of 3in1 right down the center of the stone....let the edge spread it out....refresh as needed....K.I.S.S........

So much "Complicate the simple, simplify the momentous....you'd think some were running for Congress"

[Andrew Pitonyak]

James has it correct.

Two problems with this thread. First is obsessing over lubricant, as long as it will carry off the swarf almost any thing will work. Maybe some are better than others but mostly it makes no never mind. Second is it isn't a problem of getting too much lubricant but needing to get enough to hold and remove the metal cuttings.

Of course as always YMMV,

ken

My reason for starting this thread is because sometimes I sharpen at work using some Arkansas stones that I have there. So, when a meeting is running, I might be listening to the phone while mindlessly fixing up some pocket knife blade. Note that I have pocket knives to refurbish. So there I am, sitting at my desk, and I grab that bottle of "Premium Honing Oil" and I mean to just drop a bit onto the stone, since I do not want a bunch flowing all over my desk, and I get way too much coming out of the bottle.

The other points are interesting to me, but I originally asked because I wanted to control the amount. Oh, and I won't be using WD-40 in my office any time soon. Well, if I really had a need for it, perhaps. I did refinish a wood bookshelf in my office since I could not just take it home. I am just a peon, so was told that I had to use the ugly metal furniture. They said I could have this beautiful wooden shelf because it was broken and needed to be refinished. It is old... So I built some bits at home to bring in, and I made it work. Then, I rubbed it with Tung oil and steel wool. Next thing you know I had this beautiful book case in my office. And I am rambling....