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Thread: Clearvue CV1800 power cable

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Detroit Suburbs
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    56

    Clearvue CV1800 power cable

    Hey all!

    I’m working on the electrical in my garage and my CV1800 isn’t here yet. I was curious if anyone could snap a photo or describe/name the type of 240V plug configuration it uses. My inspection on the wiring is coming up and I need to wire an outlet into the JB and I’d prefer to get it right the first time.

    Thanks,

    Phil

  2. #2
    I have the Clearview Max and it is hard wired in.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Grand Forks, ND
    Posts
    2,336
    I dont own one, but I would imagine that it does not come with a plug (or wire) for that matter. I'd go with a hard wire 10 ga. to a box with your 30 amp breaker. You could do an outlet with a 30 amp outlet and plug but I would skip the 50$ of supplies and hard wire it myself.
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    1,584
    NEMA 6-30 or L6-30

  5. #5
    I have a ClearVue CV1800, which has 5HP motor. I up-sized the impeller in mine from the standard 15" to 16". Works amazing. It did not come with plugs already installed. I have a dedicated 30A circuit from my main breaker panel in the garage to an outlet near the dust collector. I actually use a 4-prong NEMA L14-30R 30-amp outlet - all four prongs are wired correctly with two hots, a ground, and a neutral in the outlet - although the dust collector requires only three. I did that because when I hired an electrician to install my first 220V outlet, I wasn't sure what I'd be hooking it up to, so he installed a L14-30R, since then I added two more and just wanted them to be consistent. In any case, on all my tools I use a NEMA L14-30P, however one of the prongs are not used since they all require only 3 wires (two hots and ground). I made a couple of 15 foot four-conductor extension cords using 6/4 outdoor flexible power cable, which helps when moving tools around the shop. For the ClearVue, I set it up so that the remote switch box plugs into this L14-30R outlet, plus a separate 120V outlet for the remote mechanism. From there I have some 8/3 flexible outdoor cable which runs to the motor on the CV1800.

    Good luck!
    SB

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Bernstein View Post
    I have a ClearVue CV1800, which has 5HP motor. I up-sized the impeller in mine from the standard 15" to 16". Works amazing. It did not come with plugs already installed. I have a dedicated 30A circuit from my main breaker panel in the garage to an outlet near the dust collector. I actually use a 4-prong NEMA L14-30R 30-amp outlet - all four prongs are wired correctly with two hots, a ground, and a neutral in the outlet - although the dust collector requires only three. I did that because when I hired an electrician to install my first 220V outlet, I wasn't sure what I'd be hooking it up to, so he installed a L14-30R, since then I added two more and just wanted them to be consistent. In any case, on all my tools I use a NEMA L14-30P, however one of the prongs are not used since they all require only 3 wires (two hots and ground). I made a couple of 15 foot four-conductor extension cords using 6/4 outdoor flexible power cable, which helps when moving tools around the shop. For the ClearVue, I set it up so that the remote switch box plugs into this L14-30R outlet, plus a separate 120V outlet for the remote mechanism. From there I have some 8/3 flexible outdoor cable which runs to the motor on the CV1800.

    Good luck!
    SB
    Like much 220v equipment, my ClearVue 1800 also didn't come with a power plug. You choose - I use the locking receptacles and connectors.

    When running power to it the length of the run matters. Mine is in a sound-reducing closet (the DC is a screamer) with probably a 50' run and the closet contains two 5hp motors - the DC plus the air compressor. i ran #6 to a sub panel then split that out into two breakers to feed the two machines. Although the receptacle/plug works as a disconnect, I wire separate disconnect switches. For the air compressor I used this one, rated for 5 hp motors:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPQ51O Be careful, some 30 amp 220v switches, such as this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HEIVZK are marked for only 2amp motors.

    I put the sub panel in the closet but mounted the compressor disconnect and valves,etc. outside the closet in the main shop where I could get to them more easily to monitor and turn off the compressor when leaving the shop.

    DC_electrical_closet.jpg air_comp_ctrls_IMG_20150124.jpg

    JKJ

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Detroit Suburbs
    Posts
    56
    Very cool setup. I am working in a garage, and I live in a subdivision so I don’t have room to build a closet inside or outside the garage. My plan is to build it free standing to minimize vibration transfer to the house and mount the electrical controls to the outside of the enclosure.

    Thanks for the heads up, the assembly instructions on the web weren’t that clear about what you were getting as far as the electrical goes. I’ll probably just wire it up for 4 wires like y’all mentioned.

    Fortunately, I was an electrician for 15 years in the Navy so electrical work is something I’m pretty comfortable with.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    Any time you make up a flexible drop cable, it's worth the little bit of difference in cost to get SO wire instead of SJ. These days, it seems like the most common variation of SO wire is SOOW. That's fine. There are bunch of different variables indicated by the last two letters, but the most important are the first two. It is much more durable than SJ, and wire cost is a small part of the overall. I'm still using SO cords that I know are over 30 years old, at least, and they have been many different places.

    If you live in a state that allows people off the street to buy from a dedicated Electrical Supplier, the cost of any of this stuff will be much less than the box stores, and the people working in them typically know all this stuff in detail.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
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    1,844
    Yea, I agree. I have several hundred feet of S cable that's been in use, and drug around, for at least 20 years. The SJ stuff will not last nearly as long. The thicker jacket of the S makes a big difference.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,443
    With all the recommendations for hard wiring, I might remind you that in most local codes, a hard wired machine must go to a disconnect box, not a junction box.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    161
    The panel that they sell as part of the bundle comes with an L6-30R receptacle. It also comes with a short (about 6') power cord that has an L6-30P plug.
    Last edited by Roger Bull; 02-03-2020 at 4:55 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Detroit Suburbs
    Posts
    56
    Pulled the trigger on my CV1800 bundle today. Got it with the 30 gallon barrel (Stupid 9 foot ceilings).

    I just finished installing a sub panel with 2-2-2-4 SER cable (90A) to the garage with a 60A dual pole breaker for now. I ran a 30A 240V circuit with #10 THHN for my table saw (recently converted to 240), and I'm planning on doing the exact same circuit for the CV1800. Figured I'd ask and make sure before it got here.

    Thanks for all the info guys!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    360
    Same for me as Roger.

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