Help with Butcher Block countertop

[Tullie Templet]

I installed maple butcher block countertops in my house about a year ago. Coated them with mineral oil then have about 8-10 heavy coats of butcher block conditioner with waxes and mineral oil in it. Problem I’m having is no matter how much I put on them as soon as they get any amount of water drops on them the wood swells. I’ve resanded like 4 times over the year and every time a water drop hits them the wood swells. What am I doing wrong it’s about to drive me nuts. Others I talk to that use the same product say there’s do not do this that water just beads up. HELP PLEASE !

[John TenEyck]

There's no real fix for that problem unless you use a film finish (varnish). And that's a valid solution if you don't cut on the countertops. If you do, then you have to stick with the oil/wax system. The only thing I can think of that will help reduce the grain raising is to sand to a finer grit. You might try sanding up to at least 325 grit, clean off the dust, then wipe it with water and let it dry for several hours. Then lightly sand it by hand with 325 or 400 grit, just enough to remove the fuzz. Now treat it with mineral oil into which you dissolve paraffin wax, maybe a 2 to 1 ratio. Do that in a double boiler, not directly on the burner. Coat the wood with that warm mixture, then use a hair drier to help it absorb as much as it will take. Scrape off the excess with a plastic scraper and buff it with a soft cloth.

John

[Tullie Templet]

I’ve sanded all the way to 2000 grit just trying different things. Crazy why it’s doing that. I’ve talked to so many people and read so many people use this same stuff that have absolutely no issues. Even using just mineral oil people don’t have this issue. Just don’t get it. I don’t cut on them and was going to try Waterlox but I read I’d have to get all the wax and oil out for it to work and that just seems like a royal pain even if I can get it out. They are saturated with oil and wax. I’ll try the paraffin method and see how that goes. At this point I’m almost ready to get rid of them.

[Bennett Ostroff]

Surprisingly enough, Waterlox says it can be applied over non-film forming oils such as mineral oil. Here are their instructions. It does not mention wax, however. I think it would be worth a try. Maybe sand back and wipe thoroughly with mineral spirits.

[Prashun Patel]

The problem is only that you have not put enough product on to effectively (albeit temporarily) seal the surface. IMHO, you will do better to put down a few coats varnish to seal the surface.

I suggest you wipe the surface with mineral spirits to get rid of most of the wax - not really critical.
Apply a coat or two of Waterlox (which will darken the surface, BTW) or another wiping varnish. Wipe it on, rub it in and keep rubbing until the sheen goes away and you can see there's no appreciable amount on the surface that will dry into a film.
Let it dry for a day and test your water.

Skip the wax. IMHO it only causes issues.

[Tullie Templet]

Thought I read wax would have to be stripped but I’ll double check that thanks!!

[Tullie Templet]

I can assure you the wood is saturated with wax and mineral oil. If I set something dry on it like a cup there is a ring of oil when I lift it. And forget leaving a piece of paper on it. Gets saturated with oil. It’s crazy that this wood still soaks up water. But I agree with you at this point wax and mineral oil isn’t going to work. I will have to try the waterlox I think

[Tullie Templet]

Waterlox website says it is not compatible with wax. All wax must be stripped. The counters are saturated with Butcher Block conditioner witch is wax and mineral oil. Idk that I’d get all that wax out. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!