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Thread: Phase converter specifically phase perfect question..

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Toronto Ontario
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    11,277
    Patrick, the phase converter, aside from no load current will only draw enough power to supply the load.

    Since this is a house I presume the machines are for hobby use?

    With central air, a stove, a water heater, and house base load, you're really close to capacity without the shop load.

    I would curtail the dryer or stove and not worry about it further. It's extremely unlikely that your continuous shop load will be more than 6 HP including dust collection......Rod.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Woodstock, VA
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    I'm pretty sure the Phase Perfect will draw only the amps that the machine it's running will draw. In other words, as long as you're not absolutely maxing out the 10hp you should be just fine on a 60 amp breaker.
    As to setting it up yourself, there's nothing terribly difficult but when I built my shop I had to have an liscenced electrician set the panels so I also had them run wires to the Phase Perfect and it's panel.
    Just remember to change the line capacitors if you're buying used......and then every 3 years after that.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
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    833
    The breakers in your panel do not add up to the main breaker value. You removed your shaper so your PP breaker 70 amp goes there. If the assortment of loads exceeds your main breaker 100 amps then it will trip otherwise your good to go. If you find your main breaker tripping then the message is your electrical service is insufficient for your needs.
    Chuck

  4. #19
    Thanks everybody.

    I think you all confirmed what I was thinking.

    With the two machines going “shaper and ts” each on a dedicated 30 amp breaker I now have the 60 amps needed to power the phase perfect.

    My plan is going to be as follows.

    Replace two double pull 30 amp breakers with a 60 amp double pull. Sixty amp breaker to knife shutoff. Out of knife shutoff to phase perfect. All this is with 6 gauge three wire so far if I’m understanding correct. Then out of the phase converter with four wire of the appropriate gauge to a sub panel dedicated to my three phase machines. Inside the sub panel I will have breakers sized appropriate for my machines. 7.5 hp and another 7.5-9hp however that works. Out from each breaker goes the appropriate gauge four wire to the appropriate plug end for whatever three phase plug and cord I have coming out of my machines.

    Should be easy peasy.

    And it should save me a bundle. I’m sure the electrical supplies alone will cost more than a few bucks themself but whatever non of this is at all inexpensive ever.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    9,043
    If you use metal conduit, or whatever kind of metal connector to the boxes, put a plastic bushing over the end of the conduit/connecter in the boxes. If people off the street can buy from electrical suppliers there (some states don't allow it), the prices will be much lower than the box stores.

    Run any conduit first, and then measure for the wire, since you will probably be buying cut lengths. Buy enough to have a little bit to throw away. If you buy the wire first, you are guaranteed to come up a foot short.


  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    10,000
    Watch c-list and ebay to buy used panels and wire/cable.
    Bill D

  7. #22
    I’ll run EMT everywhere.

    When I added a sub panel and dedicated circuit breakers and outlets I had a licensed electrician my then boss used at the time do the work. He ran EMT everywhere and put all the outlets in metal boxes.

    I’ll do the same as it’s very very nice.

    So what’s the suggestion with the plastic ends for other than cables not cutting? The metal boxes have those round plastic lined clamps whatever they are called.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    If you use metal conduit, or whatever kind of metal connector to the boxes, put a plastic bushing over the end of the conduit/connecter in the boxes. If people off the street can buy from electrical suppliers there (some states don't allow it), the prices will be much lower than the box stores.

    Run any conduit first, and then measure for the wire, since you will probably be buying cut lengths. Buy enough to have a little bit to throw away. If you buy the wire first, you are guaranteed to come up a foot short.


  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
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    648
    I thought about running EMT and pulling THHN for the 3-phase circuits to the machines, but quickly learned that bending conduit is a skill that I wasn’t going to master quickly. So, I just used 10-3 NM wire (Romex) instead and it worked great and was a lot easier.
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  9. #24
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    Feb 2014
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    Doesn't matter what they're for other than being required by code. You don't get to argue that they aren't needed. It's a detail left out by many DIYer's the first time, and not one you want to re-do. Insulation is why those push through connectors are there too, just to save a step since they are required anyway.

  10. #25
    I’m not looking to derail here but I have a question that might be relevant. Is it possible to have some sort of transfer switch at the main panel that would shed other house circuits while the PP is in use? I might be going down the same path in the future so following this one. Thanks

  11. #26
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    Tom, are you talking about the anti-short bushings?
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,277
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Tom, are you talking about the anti-short bushings?
    I think he's referring to insulated throat connectors. Instead of installing an insulating bushing on the end of the connector, you can buy connectors with a built in plastic sleeve, same sort of thing as an anti-short bushing for BX........The nice thing about insulated throat connectors is that you don't have the space wasted by the insulating bushing.

    Regards, Rod.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
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    I was told that I needed 80 amp breakers for my 10HP Phase Perfect. That's what Phase Perfect's website says, and what I had put in.

    I run that off my 200 amp subpanel. FWIW.

    I Don't have any machines that exceed 10HP. My Grizzly 10HP widebelt sander runs just fine off it. No issues at all.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve H Graham View Post
    I have 100 amps to my shop, and my biggest draw is a 7.5-HP lathe. I have #3 wire to the Phase Perfect's subpanel. I'm pretty sure I have the Phase Perfect on a 60-amp breaker. If it draws too much power, hey, that's what the breaker is for. Until it pops, I consider the circuit more than adequate.

    I didn't "install" my Phase Perfect. I created an outlet and plugged it in.
    The breaker is there to protect the circuit, not the load.

  15. #30
    We removed an electric range and put in a new gas one, not a big deal. Of course, my son is a plumber.

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