I have 10" Delta Contractors Saw that I made a wood insert with a splitter on it. I have no kickbacks.
I have 10" Delta Contractors Saw that I made a wood insert with a splitter on it. I have no kickbacks.
Members may find the links below interesting they are information sheets from the UK Health and Safety executive
https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf
https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/circular-saw.pdf
https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/ripsaw.htm
https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/wis.htm
Last edited by Brian Deakin; 01-27-2020 at 1:58 PM.
Members may find the links below interesting they are information sheets from the UK Health and Safety executive
https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf
https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/circular-saw.pdf
https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/ripsaw.htm
https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/wis.htm
I use push sticks and never get close to the blade. I also wear safety glasses.
I disagree Doug. there are two distinct types of kickback. 1. long narrow stock pinches either around the blade or between blade and fence and shoots out the rear of saw. 2. sheet goods in dimensions close to square shape are not controlled and lift slightly and "catch the edge of the blade and then spin as the blade digs in from underneath and launches them. A good push stick design will hold the later (type 2) down tight on the table and help greatly in preventing this type from happening. I think that riving knives are probably one of the best table saw safety devices out there for the best protection for type 1 kickbacks.
Agree with your comment on riving knife, on the push stick I think what you call a push stick I call a push block and a quick Google search seems to show you are in the majority. Can't seem to cut and paste an image from Google to show what I mean but I call the type which puts pressure on the top a push block, I call a push stick the type that just pushes the trailing edge of the workpiece. Kinda hard to describe without a picture.
I hate using a push stick. I just don't feel comfortable with having so little control. I like the 'shoe' style, which gives the operator the ability to apply downward pressure to the material.
The pad-style push blocks give me pause, they cause the operator to push the material over the blade. It's my understanding that kick-back is entirely more dangerous (it is always dangerous) if you're physically extended past the blade. A kickback at that position increases the likelihood of the operator traveling over the blade, which is a situation I would personally want to avoid.
I don't use a tablesaw for rip cutting, very much at all. I have a bandsaw and a planer so I'm happily making parallel edges with machinery more suited to it. I'll use the tablesaw mainly for ripping wide panels when the need arises.
Skinny pieces and short pieces are dangerous.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.