Need Some Help Purchasing a Tenon Saw

[Jeffrey Martel]

One option is to buy a kit and make one. Handles aren't too difficult to make. Will cost you under $100, and a few hours worth of work. I bought my kit from Blackburn tools.

Tenonsaw.JPG

[David Eisenhauer]

A Disston refurbished by Bad Axe is certainly an option Thomas. I have two questions concerning that: 1) Waiting time - someone said that Bad Axe takes a while to turn a saw around due to the popularity of that option. 2) Cost? - How much is invested in a used Disston plus refurbishing by Bad Axe? I have a an older Disston and it only reguired some light rust removal with a scotchbrite type pad (older pitting remaining in the plate does not impact its performance) and sharpening. As it is rip filed, it is easy to sharpen, even for a rank beginner. Will you get better at sharpening? Of course, but the first attempt will make the saw cut better in 99% of cases. Also, I believe there are other folks that can refurbish a Disston for you at perhaps a quicker pace and maybe a lower cost. Sawing tenons also works better if you use a marking gauge to mark out the dimensions for cutting and final (if needed) paring by chisel or router plane. I routinely cut smaller sized tenons in 3/4" material with a 16" saw and it is not awkward at all. I bet a 14" would also work well, but who knows if the 2" difference would really be noticeable. When you first use a tenon saw, pay attention to the horizontal and vertical positioning of the saw plate before and during the cut. Keep both at 90deg and all will work out. After a short time, muscle memory kicks in and your cuts will very close to dead on. Given that you start the cut exactly (next to gauge line) where you want, the cut will follow the line without watching the line if you keep the saw plate square and vertical to the material being cut. Buy the used Disston and try it out. If you like tenon sawing by hand and want a newer/ perceived as better saw, then move up to the saw of your choice. I have the Disston (shorter 12?, length) and a LN (16" length). The Disston is used for smaller stuff and crosscutiing stuff that wants a finer cut (has more TPI) than my larger rip and cross cut saws.

[Mike Allen1010]

The beauty of hand tools is that you saw to the line and then you are done. If you want to fool around with jigging and testing, you might as well stick with the power tools.

In making a mortise and tenon joint, we set the mortise gauge to the width of the chisel, and use the gauge to mark both the stile and the rail. There is very little set up time so you would need to make quite a few joints by machine just to come up to hand tool speed.

+1 I fully support Warren's comments – the beauty of hand saws is "see the line, cut the line". With a little practice you would be surprised by the level of accuracy you're able to achieve. In contrast, I have always struggled trying to set up jigs/fences etc. on a table saw/bandsaw to get similar results. Personally, I find a lot faster and more satisfying to Mark out and saw a broad range of different tennons with marking gauge and tenon saw, versus setting up the appropriate power tool setting. Just my experience, YMMV

Cheers, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

I mentioned that 16" seems long to me, and the only Lie Nielsen tenon saw is indeed 16" long. Do people find that too cumbersome? I honestly don't know.

Tom,

As a thirty-year hand tool woodworker, when it comes to the size of the saw my rule of thumb is: for beginners, a smaller saw is easier to handle and get lined up with the layout line etc. Over time, with practice, you'll find sawing exactly to the layout line gets a lot easier and you'll appreciate a larger saw that yields a faster result. Longer saw plates are actually easier to line up with layout lines and the larger mass/inertia makes it easier to get started online and stay on the line. For example, I recently helped a friend sawing 3" through tennons to connect workbench legs to the top of the Rubio workbench. it was easier to get a straight cut right in the layout lines with a 22 inch, 6 PPI ripsaw, rather than "hunting and pecking" with a much smaller, backed tenon saw. Just my experience, YMMV.

Cheers, Mike

[Mark Maleski]

I saw all of my tenon cheeks using a 14” Adria tenon saw with about 12tpi and 4” depth. I wish it was longer. At just 14” it forces me to make choppy strokes (I’m generally sawing tenons at 1.5 to 2.5”). I also have a vintage tenon saw at 18” and used it to confirm the length is optimal (for me)...but the tooth configuration is all wrong for my work (it’s a very coarse saw).

i have a couple nice crosscut saws for the shoulders but typically don’t bother switching; the Adria is just fine for the shoulders too.

[Jeff Bartley]

Tom,

+2 on Warrens comments. The trick is just making a hundred cuts, practice. You'll be surprised how quick you'll start sawing straight!

As to specific saw recommendations i can report that I picked up a George Bishop saw a couple years ago at a tool swap for $60. It was good to go from the start. I also have a lie Nielsen dovetail saw and two Groves & Sons saws. They all cut great, the Groves are my favorites.

If you can get to a tool swap you'll have the opportunity to hold a bunch of saws. But the Lie Nielsen will be the sure-thing in terms of a sharp good working saw.

Also, make sure you have a good marking gauge so you have good lines to cut to!

[Jim Koepke]

As to specific saw recommendations i can report that I picked up a George Bishop saw a couple years ago at a tool swap for $60. It was good to go from the start.

My George Bishop #10 gets used mostly on work with a lot of repetitive cuts:

Setting the Bishop 10.jpg

The blade has two edges. Mine has one side filed for rip cuts and the other filed for crosscuts. The 'back' makes it so the depth of cut can be set. This makes it easy when doing a project with 50 or so identical dovetails or a bunch of lap joints.

jtk

[Mark Maleski]

As an illustration of why you might want a longer saw...this is the 14” Adria I mentioned. Then again, even a longer saw is going to have to fight through this. 😏