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Thread: Bessey Parallel Clamp Grip/Handle Replacements

  1. #31
    Thanks for listening Bessey - with a 6mm hex socket in the end of the handles for a hex key I'll but more clamps

  2. #32
    A further improvement: a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil at the end of the rod where it enters the casting; not the wood end, the other end. My 30 year old Besseys began to tighten like new after that treatment.

  3. #33
    Join Date
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    Orren,

    Rockler has these that fit Bessey handles. I have them on all my K bodys and they make a big difference.

    Cliff
    The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
    Charles Bukowski

  4. #34
    I feel your pain. For me, sometimes I just didn't have the strength I needed after twisting on several clamps. I found some stuff called Plastidip. You dip the handles in the can and put a plastic coating on them. I did 2 or 3 coats on mine and it works great. I tried using a slip on foam covering, but over time, they got loose. I've used the Plastidip on other handles as well, including some drivers. Hope this helps.
    By the way, the more coatings you put on, the bigger the handles get and the more torque you can apply without wrenching your wrist.
    Last edited by Derek Arita; 01-24-2020 at 9:04 PM.

  5. #35

  6. #36
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    If you need to tighten that much to pull boards together you don't have flat enough boards. remember putting that much force on to pull together means the boards will push back that hard against the glue when the clamps are removed.

  7. #37
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    A strap wrench will give you all the extra torque you need without damaging the grips.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Jensen View Post
    If you need to tighten that much to pull boards together you don't have flat enough boards. remember putting that much force on to pull together means the boards will push back that hard against the glue when the clamps are removed.
    +1
    I was going to say the same. I can understand hand gripping strength issues, but if we're into strap and socket wrenches, then something is not right with the preparation and using brute strength to force it is not good practice. Even cambering for sprung joint should be so subtle that a lot of power should not be necessary.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Santos View Post
    +1
    I was going to say the same. I can understand hand gripping strength issues, but if we're into strap and socket wrenches, then something is not right with the preparation and using brute strength to force it is not good practice. Even cambering for sprung joint should be so subtle that a lot of power should not be necessary.

    Or, you are old and have arthritis from working hard your whole life and are not looking for crazy clamping, just a way to have normal clamping without the pain, just saying........ Sometimes its good to peek inside someone else's box.

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post
    Or, you are old and have arthritis from working hard your whole life and are not looking for crazy clamping, just a way to have normal clamping without the pain, just saying........ Sometimes its good to peek inside someone else's box.
    Yes, I should have clarified that all the suggestions are great if they are aiding someone in operating the clamp within normal parameters, meaning the application of pressure levels traditional to woodworking.
    If some of these aids are applying more or substantially more torque than that, I'm just saying it shouldn't be necessary to do so and might indicate a problem with joint preparation.

    Simply put, beware of overclamping.

    PC Disclaimer: Nothing here but props and respect for those suffering with arthritis, disability or age related limitations of any sort. Keep on keeping on!
    Last edited by Edwin Santos; 01-25-2020 at 1:39 PM.

  11. #41
    Yes, worked for 58 years, known for strength, and then in my 70's muscle mass gets less, joints stiffer and the wooden, screwdriver handles of the Bessey parallels are the worst. Besseys thrown in the corner and a pleasure to go back to pipe clamps with real handles - keep the threads oiled. And I still go to work - I like working.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    One simple and inexpense suggestion not requiring any modifications to existing clamps or purchasing new clamps( even if I think the yost clamps I wrote about are awesome) is to get a pair of the blue rubber coated gloves they sell at the big box. Make sure they are the good ones and not the super thin "orange" multi pack they sell as those have more of a plastic coating as opposed to rubber. The ones I use can be purchased at Amazon under the Atlas brand. I think you will be surprised how much additional grip these will give you on wooden handles. Granted if you are struggling with hand strength the benefits will be marginal, but short of a mechanical advantage I'm not sure anything will be the silver bullet.

  13. #43
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    I haven't modified the Bessey's as suggested here. If they won't or don't sufficiently close a joint I use one the Debuque's or a pipe clamp to close the joint and then place the Bessey to hold it. I can then remove the D or PC. The Bessey's are good clamps but lack of grip on my part, not wanting to break them, etc has kept me from modifying them. The Bessey's are about the fiddliest damned things in the shop.

  14. #44
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    On wild side how bout bicycle grips

  15. #45
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    > Simply put, beware of overclamping.

    As metioned in MANY other threads, with those who do serious clamping for boats frames, etc. and as mentioned by all Titebond engineers who test this stuff every day, it is nearly impossible to overclamp hardwoods. Granted, if you have perfectly straight boards, you can potentially get away with less pressure than the Titebonds reccomendation of 200psi... math found in previous / recent thread if you are interested.

    I have a 30 of the Revo clamps, they work great... and while just like the wooden K Body clamps, by hand pressure only, I can get to 700-800 psi... very surprised not much difference between the two, but with the new Revo, I keep a ratchet wrench near, with socket with 6mm Allen which fits in the rear of handle... less than a 1/4 turn, and the clamp pressure goes right to 1500psi, tested with a pressure gauge. This extra pressure allows for using half the amount of clamps for the same total pressure. I thnk everyone can agree, less clamps is helpful when glue is drying on you!

    Also, I too have a lot of the HD Yost, and they are superb, simple twist of the angled handle, it easily acheives 1500 psi with no tools. Both of these clamps are the only ones I buy new today. The Besseys have the advantage of allowing them to be ganged togehter for those long glue ups such as 8ft doors, where most of us prob. wont buy clamps that long, due to minimal use, storage, etc.

    I also load my KBody wooden handle clamps with tennis racquet grips, it helps a lot. I love Jims idea of building up the handle, as wider diam handle allows a much better grip. The K Body handles are way too thin. If you can replace your handles with the Revo, that is ideal. If Bessey says it will work, pls do share! I will replace mine as well...
    Last edited by Will Blick; 01-31-2020 at 3:00 PM.

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