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Thread: Bending or forming formica

  1. #16
    John that is atractive and SO much better than trying to get the wood flush with the laminate. I've have to do a lot of
    the flush fits,just because I wasn't smart enough to ruin the first tries.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    New Westminster BC
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    One thing to consider with a built in desk is power cord management. Unless you have a power outlet above the desk top, you probably want a way to route power cords for lamps, phone chargers etc. down to an outlet below. Two ways to do this (at least) drill a hole thru the top or space the top away from the wall. I installed a counter top in our home office with a backsplash and spaced it about 3" from the wall to allow clearance for cords. Works well and the backsplash prevents stuff from falling off the back of the top.
    If you go to a custom countertop manufacturer you can get any size, colour or shape of counter top with or without a backsplash you can afford.
    Last edited by Doug Garson; 01-19-2020 at 2:56 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Woodstock. Ont.
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    209
    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    This is a good example of the difference in how home owners think and how cabinet guys think. While many home
    owners like that round , many cabinet guys don't . They take great pride in sticking on those little strips....and when
    they start to peel and fall off.....they are not there.
    I do it for a living but don’t agree with your take on all cabinet guys. I have replaced hinges that failed after 8 years at no charge. The homeowner felt that it must have been faulty at time of install as no others failed . As someone else mentioned they do make preformed front edges more a select number of matching colours. If installed properly the joint is difficult to see. The main three manufacturers make them. Some are available to give the appearance of granite counter tops.
    Brian

  4. #19
    Brian, I should have been more clear. I was referring to the employees who hate to see easy jobs disappear. I've never
    heard management grumble much. And most make sure poor work is made good. But I've heard the help complain every time they didn't get to play with the strips.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Highland MI
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    I am in the middle of a laminate project right now. Doing a 3' x 12' conference room table and a matching 2' x 8' countertop for a credenza using two 24" HD unfinished base cabinets at the ends. All using 1-1/8" particleboard. BTW that 3x12 sheet weighs 180 pounds. Prior to laminating I glued a 7/8" x 1-1/2" red oak strip around the perimeter mitering the corners. Flushed everything to the top then applied the Wilsonart premium laminate (Old Mill Oak), holding it 1/4" in from the edges. Then I used a 45 degree bevel router bit to ease the edge. Here is a pic prior to final sanding, staining and varnishing:

    Got a few tips from a YouTube video, including using visqueen as a slip sheet rather than using dowels and then clamping one end for perfect alignment before folding the visqueen under. Much easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5lrXt9WtVs
    credenza.jpg
    Last edited by Ole Anderson; 01-21-2020 at 12:40 PM.
    NOW you tell me...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    New Hampshire
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    2,796
    As you describe, I was thinking of doing the same thing with a 3/4" roundover bit.

  7. #22
    Honestly, look at wilsonart crescent edge and any other edges by mfr's you have access to (formical, 909, etc.) they are not seamless but neither is any wood applied edge. If you want wood, then a wood bullnose is simple. If you want a rolled plastic laminate edge your only options are an applied edge, or to do as has already been suggested and get a quote on double edge post formed top (which I also would agree is likely not as costly as you'd think but then again Plam tops at the home center are not cheap to begin with and they are usually crap laminate anyway)

  8. #23
    Here is a perfect link for you. Look at any of the "Bar" options. Those are readily available special order from pretty much any supplier.

    http://www.ultimateincounters.com/La...e_Profiles.pdf

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    Here is a perfect link for you. Look at any of the "Bar" options. Those are readily available special order from pretty much any supplier.

    http://www.ultimateincounters.com/La...e_Profiles.pdf
    This is EXACTLY what I was talking about in my earlier post.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    New Hampshire
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    2,796
    I have gone to the box stores to ask for a waterfall single edge counter top, 6' x 24". Shall we guess the price? 12 square feet, $250, for the cheapest laminate in the list (just over $22/sq ft). Contrast that to the kitchen/vanity waterfall edge, 6' long sitting on the shelf at $72. I'm trying to find a direct source to see if they have a scrap, seconds, or want to cut a deal (skip the box store markup and delivery) for a quick easy countertop.

    As for a seam near the edge, I have never seen a rounded edge with a seam. The HPL is a single piece from the backsplash to the drip edge on every counter top I have ever seen or looked at during this en devour.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    New Hampshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Dixon View Post
    Likely the laminate will disintegrate where the wood round over meets the laminate round over since you would be using a contact glue. I would not attempt that having made more than a few laminate tops. To not have the laminate edge disintegrate the round over bit would have to take out at least 1/16" through the laminate so it steps down to the round over, which probably isn't what you want.
    I don't follow the latter statement. But the first part worked just fine in my 3 foot test piece. I don't know why you thought it wouldn't. Laminate is trimmed with router bits all the time. Flush trim especially, but also taper bits. Not much difference between taper and roundover. The results were the bit survived, nice smooth edge, straight lines. Perfect from a technical aspect. Unfortunately, the round over provides a tapered/angled cut through the laminate, which makes a wide brown stripe visible down the length. Kind of resembles an extra wide pin stripe. But the dark brown backing of the laminate vs the mottled white top and light colored maple edge is not attractive.

  12. #27
    The large brown stripe of the backing is what can disintegrate over time with use. It is softer than the surface and by rounding it over it is very thin where the backer meets the wood and can easily be damaged/chipped/broken.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    I have gone to the box stores to ask for a waterfall single edge counter top, 6' x 24". Shall we guess the price? 12 square feet, $250, for the cheapest laminate in the list (just over $22/sq ft). Contrast that to the kitchen/vanity waterfall edge, 6' long sitting on the shelf at $72. I'm trying to find a direct source to see if they have a scrap, seconds, or want to cut a deal (skip the box store markup and delivery) for a quick easy countertop.

    As for a seam near the edge, I have never seen a rounded edge with a seam. The HPL is a single piece from the backsplash to the drip edge on every counter top I have ever seen or looked at during this en devour.

    $20 per square foot is the going rate for any base laminate around here so your 22 number sound like a win-win. There is never ever ever going to be a chance that a mass produced, standardized item, is going to be the price you can go on for anything other than the off the shelf item. Its like people coming to me looking for a $350 vanity. I can hit the 350 number easy if Im making 50-100 pieces and its rapid fire. But the one off is not going to hit that number.

    These are applied edges. Very straight forward. Glue on, T slot on, etc.. available from all manufacturers.
    https://issuu.com/wilsonart/docs/wil...=sNWIxODE2MjEx

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,688
    Anthony, see if Ikea has a pre-made that will fit your needs.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Moscow, ID
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Dixon View Post
    The large brown stripe of the backing is what can disintegrate over time with use. It is softer than the surface and by rounding it over it is very thin where the backer meets the wood and can easily be damaged/chipped/broken.
    When we built my house, we did laminate for the kitchen counters that is a black granite print. We edged the particle board with solid maple, then covered the tops and edges with laminate, and came back and routed a chamfer along the edges, exposing about 1/4" of maple at a 45 degree angle. All the counters have held up great, with no laminate separating from the substrate and no chips or dings in the laminate edging anywhere, even by the sink or stove. I did apply 2 coats of wipe-on poly to the maple, some of which probably coated the cut edges of the laminate. This was 16 years ago.

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