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Thread: Plane (router) Restoration Question

  1. #1

    Plane (router) Restoration Question

    Today I became the proud owner of this old Stanley 71 router plane.

    60098426878__86FA913B-E7FC-4C0E-BC84-522FF052C026.jpg

    I've always wanted one of these old planes so I picked one up in a trade. Anyway, when I got the plane it had some rust on the bottom seen in the picture below.

    82602468_172515687464607_7651804921557155840_n.jpg
    I decided to try to remove the rust with a granite plate and some 220 adhesive backed sandpaper. After a couple of minutes of lightly working on the plane, most of the rust is gone, but now there is sort of a weird purple tint in a couple of places (directly below the handles).

    routerPlane1.jpg

    routerplane2.jpg

    What is this purple tint? I have used this method on a couple of old stanley baileys, and I don't recall seeing any discoloration like this before.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Before they nickle plated it, Stanley used a copper plate...so, you copper with cast iron under it, and maybe a bit of nickle on top?
    Stanley Router Plane, the before 2.JPG
    What my 71-1/2 looked like when I walked home with it..
    Stanley Router Plane, the after 3, sole.JPG
    After a good clean up (brass wire wheel)

    Wax the sole, call it done.

  3. #3
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    It shouldn't be anything to worry over.

    If you worry about leaving marks on light or soft woods, a wooden base is easy to add

    Lap Routing.jpg

    A wood base helps when using Veritas router blades.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #4
    Thanks, Jim. I ordered a couple of veritas blades yesterday. I guess they are too tall and thus requiring the wooden base?

  5. #5
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    Turn the adjusting wheel upside down, is all you need to do..

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnM Martin View Post
    Thanks, Jim. I ordered a couple of veritas blades yesterday. I guess they are too tall and thus requiring the wooden base?
    As Steven posted, turning the adjusting wheel upside down may be all that is needed.

    The wooden base will be kinder to your work in soft woods like pine and other fir species.

    Here is a trick that might help:

    Lines on Router Adjuster.jpg

    The lines are helpful to keep track of how much the blade is being advanced.

    My router is a Sargent #62. If my memory is working the adjuster has 18 threads per inch. This works out to one revolution of the adjuster being ~0.055". With 8 equally spaced marks, advancing the blade, a 1/8th turn lowers the blade ~0.007", a 1/16th turn ~0.0035".

    The Stanley router plane likely has a different thread, in other words, YMMV!!!.png

    Found my thread pitch chart:

    Thread Pitch in Thousandths.png

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 01-18-2020 at 3:47 PM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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