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Thread: 220v remote switch for Dust collector

  1. #1
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    220v remote switch for Dust collector

    {thread originally in the Classifieds, but has a different outcome...}

    Looking to see if anyone has laying around a remote control switch for a dust collector like the Long Ranger or Grizzly remotes or other brands.


    Ricc
    Elkhart, IN
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 01-22-2020 at 5:27 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricc Havens View Post
    Looking to see if anyone has laying around a remote control switch for a dust collector like the Long Ranger or Grizzly remotes or other brands.


    Ricc
    Elkhart, IN

    Ricc - think about making your own? I've had a ClerVue for many years and use a remote that uses 110v to fire a relay for the 220v cyclone. Maybe someone here with a better electrical background could help you out. For reference I did a search and found this:

    https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+...etouo9SB4K8gM:


    Good luck
    Mike

  3. #3
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    As I said in the following thread, I made my own (cheaper and I've total control over parts selection, along with an inexpensive remote if replacement is needed - the Fosmon is $13.95 for the entire remote unit). You can see the remote on the enclosure in the following picture.

    IMG_2731.jpg

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....t=#post2950884
    Last edited by Jeff Ramsey; 01-18-2020 at 11:47 AM.

  4. #4
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    Jeff & Mike - I saw a couple write ups online about doing that but it seemed like the supplies (contactor/relay, box, remote, plug, cord recept, 220v outlet, wiring, connectors, etc) would end up costing me $50 or more with shipping. A new one from Grizzly is only $65. Didn't seem like a big advantage to do it that way. It would be an option if I knew someone locally that was an electrician who could get me the stuff at cost. But the only electrician I know charges me $75 an hour!


    Thanks
    Ricc

  5. #5
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    Ricc - that one at Grizzly is a good price if your DC is less than 3HP.

    Mike

  6. #6
    Ten dollar Christmas tree light control, with a 120 volt coil, two pole contactor, and you are in business.

  7. #7
    For my DC system, I have a micro-switch installed on each gate which triggers a solid state relay to "close" one leg of power to the DC. So no matter which machine I'm on, when I close the DC gate, the DC turns on automatically.

  8. #8
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    Ricc, the advantage to building your own is that the retail versions do tend to not last compared to shop-built and with shop-buit, you can zero in on the exact amperage load you require and have multiple options for the control side so that you can match things up to your own personal needs. Some folks prefer wireless remote controls and as someone mentioned, you can even use inexpensive holiday light controls for that since they are only "switching the switch", as it were. I personally use a centrally located wall switch for mine...it's only a few steps from anywhere in my shop and I can never "lose" it. My setup. Note I chose to use a switched 120v outlet on the control side so I can completely disconnect the contactor from power on both load and control merely by unplugging them.

    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    220v relay is about $12 or so, box to hold is a couple, switch about 3, a connector strip is 3 to 7, so maybe $25. And I can turn on and off from each blast gate with low voltage wire and microswitch (cheap, $5 for 10 of those)
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  10. #10
    All good advice above. I have the "reinvent the wheel" habit, too. That said, I have a plug&play 3 yr old 220V Shop Fox with two remotes that works like a charm, every time. one remote near each end of the shop is all I've ever needed. $45 shipped to you. PM me if you re interested.
    Last edited by Brad Whitham; 01-19-2020 at 2:37 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Ricc, the advantage to building your own is that the retail versions do tend to not last compared to shop-built and with shop-buit, you can zero in on the exact amperage load you require and have multiple options for the control side so that you can match things up to your own personal needs. Some folks prefer wireless remote controls and as someone mentioned, you can even use inexpensive holiday light controls for that since they are only "switching the switch", as it were. I personally use a centrally located wall switch for mine...it's only a few steps from anywhere in my shop and I can never "lose" it. My setup. Note I chose to use a switched 120v outlet on the control side so I can completely disconnect the contactor from power on both load and control merely by unplugging them.


    Thanks Jim for the picture and info. I may do this but still deciding as my electrical skills are limited. Trying to find a local friend who is better versed in electronics to help. But, will consider the name brand models if I can find one to meet my disability income budget.

    Ricc

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Whitham View Post
    All good advice above. I have the "reinvent the wheel" habit, too. That said, I have a plug&play 3 yr old 220V Shop Fox with two remotes that works like a charm, every time. one remote near each end of the shop is all I've ever needed. $45 shipped to you. PM me if you re interested.

    Brad, let me think a day or two about it. The guys above have made great points on reasons to make one but I like simple ready made too!

    Ricc

  13. #13
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    Ric, just so you know, setting up a contactor is basically setting up a "switch"...no "electronics" in the deep technical sense is involved and a contactor has screw terminals. It really is pretty darn easy, but there's no harm in getting help from someone who's familiar and comfortable with working with 120v and 240v power if you're not. I picked up my contactor from an electrical supply house...they are quite common...but that was before Amazon, etc., became such a force.

    Here's my thread from where I built mine: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ight=Contactor . At that initial point, I was just using an X-10 remote to switch the control side. I later switched {SIC} to a standard 120v single pole wall switch instead of the wireless fob as, um...you can't lose a wall switch.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    I used an x-10 220v setup for about 8 years on my 3hp collector. The contactor has now burned out. I replaced it with this inexpensive one. So far it works. No idea how long it will last. The contactor is supposed to be rated for 40amps.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Whitham View Post
    All good advice above. I have the "reinvent the wheel" habit, too. That said, I have a plug&play 3 yr old 220V Shop Fox with two remotes that works like a charm, every time. one remote near each end of the shop is all I've ever needed. $45 shipped to you. PM me if you re interested.

    Brad, thanks again for the offer. But, with the advice in this thread, info and encouragement from Jim Becker, and a youtube video I ended up making one yesterday. Seems to work well. So I won't need your Shop Fox unit.

    THANKS EVERYONE!!

    Ricc

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