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Thread: 220v remote switch for Dust collector

  1. #16
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    Ricc, great job!

    I'm going to move this thread to the Workshops area and slightly change the title so it's preserved rather than deleted as it would be in the Classifieds.

    Jim
    Forum Moderator

  2. #17
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    For my 3 hp dust collector (2 pole 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge wire, 6-30 plug and receptacle) this $18 option worked great for me. I inserted this inline just ahead of my receptacle

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WV...b_b_asin_image
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    For my 3 hp dust collector (2 pole 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge wire, 6-30 plug and receptacle) this $18 option worked great for me. I inserted this inline just ahead of my receptacle

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WV...b_b_asin_image
    fwiw, it looks like the relay in that unit is rated for 1/2HP:

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  4. Interesting thread. I have run a Lone Ranger for years for my 2hp DC. First one got smashed by accident after 10 years. I made a half hearted attempt to repair, but then as I don't like to mess with electrical unless I really know what I am doing, I just bought a new one. Still working after 5 or 6 years.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Ricc, great job!

    I'm going to move this thread to the Workshops area and slightly change the title so it's preserved rather than deleted as it would be in the Classifieds.

    Jim
    Forum Moderator

    Jim, good idea! but would it be a better fit int eh "shop made tools" forum?

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricc Havens View Post
    Jim, good idea! but would it be a better fit int eh "shop made tools" forum?
    No, because we discuss dust collection here and there are many existing threads on DC remote control already.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by David L Morse View Post
    fwiw, it looks like the relay in that unit is rated for 1/2HP:
    Must be a re-used picture on amazon, as their spec for this unit states "The product is a wireless remote switch with 30A relay." and the actual unit I have in hand says the same on the part in question.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Riefer View Post
    Must be a re-used picture on amazon, as their spec for this unit states "[FONT="]The product is a wireless remote switch with 30A relay." and the actual unit I have in hand says the same on the part in question.[/FONT]
    You're right about the current rating. The relay in the picture is rated for 40A not 30A. The description has no HP rating. Does the one in your hand have a HP rating?

    Note that the HP rating of a switch involves not just the operating current. The other big part of it is the turn off transient and associated arcing. The contacts need lots of material to withstand the losses during the arc (think EDM). There is also a spacing requirement to quickly snuff the arc to minimize those contact material losses.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  9. #24
    This switch is not 220V but it works very well (at least so far) for my 120V HF DC. It could be used to trigger a relay to switch a 220V load.

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It's cheap enough your total cost should be easily less than $50.

  10. #25
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    Jim,

    Though you are safely using this switch to control a 120VAC motor, I want to make it clear that using it on a 220V motor is unsafe.

    Both leads of a 220VAC circuit are each only 120VAC, relative to ground or neutral, so it would not be exceeding the voltage rating of the switch if you are only switching one lead of the 220V circuit.

    From the CB/outlet, the two leads are 120VAC sine waves, 180 degrees out of phase, so they create 240VAC between the two leads.

    However, it is generally considered unsafe to switch only one of the power leads for a 220V circuit, since the unswitched lead is still 120VAC, and still dangerous.

    Under normal circumstances, once either 220V circuit lead is interrupted, the circuit is open, and the attached motor will stop.

    However, under abnormal situations, (water, other contamination, insulation fault, etc.) the motor may continue to run, albeit with much less power/speed, which would destroy the motor (and potentially start a fire) if left running like that indefinitely.

    As such, using that switch for turning on/off a 220V motor is unsafe.


    Andy - Arlington TX
    Retired Electrical Engineer
    NOT a licensed electrician
    Last edited by Andy D Jones; 01-26-2020 at 8:10 PM. Reason: misunderstood application of switch

  11. #26
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    Andy, Jim clearly stated that he could use the 120v switch for the CONTROL side of a contactor (he used the term "trigger") which is both true and safe. At no time is that 120v switch directly connected to a 240v motor.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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