[OP]
Member
I know they exist, I have seen them. A buddy would like one for his lathe (8x12 variable) . We tried mounting my g-3 chuck with the step down adapter but it seems too heavy for the motor to start spinning without an assist. Lighter loads start spinning no problem.
Contributor
Does your buddy’s lathe have a hollow spindle? I would think a chuck with a Morse taper would be a better option.
Member
+1 Be sure to get one that has a threads in the taper so you can lock the chuck in. It's pretty exciting when the chuck falls out.......
[OP]
Member
He has a MT1 taper, but as said below, the taper can just slide out while spinning. Don't want that. His lathe has a 3/4 x 16 spindle. An adapter from female 3/4 x 16 to a male drill chuck thread like 1/2 x 20 should work.
Contributor
He can use a drawbar to hold the chuck/taper from coming out.
Moderator
Yikes, what kind of lathe? "8x12 variable", does that mean 8" swing and 12" length? I'm concerned that a drill chuck with an adapter plus the drill bit would be so long its use might be very limited.Originally Posted by Perry Hilbert Jr
Has he considered taper shank drill bits? The smaller bits are #1MT and the larger are #2MT. I used them in the tailstock whenever I can to avoid using a Jacob's chuck.
taper_1_IMG_20160919_094408.jpg
Inexpensive adapters will convert from #1 to #2 and so on.
You can save a LOT of length by using taper shank bits instead of a chuck.
taper_2_IMG_20160919_094945.jpg
These would work better in the tailstock instead of the headstock spindle since they are not threaded for a drawbar. In the tailstock you can hold them with vise grip pliers or something to keep them from turning while drilling.
JKJ
[OP]
Member
sorry for the confusion. The chuck is to hold small stock. My G-3 is far to heavy for the variable speed motor to start spinning. The drill chuck would just be to tide him over until he can get the larger lathe he wants. We frequently turn larger stock down between centers to fit our chucks, he could do the same and then hold a 1/2 inch stub in the chuck to hold onto the stock while he finishes turning. There's no intention to use it to drill holes but to hold small stock on the lathe.
Moderator
I understand now. Some other ideas off the top of my (tired) head:
* A friend was recently given a mini lathe and it came with a scroll chuck MUCH smaller and lighter weight than the G3. If you want I could ask the brand and see if it would work. Since it is 4-jaw chuck it would hold wood better than a 3-jaw Jacob's chuck. To me, that would be the perfect solution! The mini lathe uses a 1"x8 thread, possibly there is an adapter to fit your 3/4x16. (Isn't that the spindle thread on the old Craftsman tube lathe?)
* Also, another way I have used 100's of times to go from between centers to holding small stock: turn a very short Morse Taper on one end of the stock then fit it into the headstock spindle. I've always turned #2MT but can't see why you couldn't turn a #1MT. I use this to turn wands on a mini lathe where the blanks are too long to fit with a chuck mounted. Here are some, along with a little gauge I made for sizing (however, in demos I use calipers since no one is going to run home and create a gauge!):
morse_taper.jpg pointers_IMG_20140311_11390.jpg
This method does rely on the tailstock to keep the piece in the headstock. However, I have used a 1/4" draw bar to pull the MT tight where I couldn't support it with the tailstock, for example on the end of a long thin spindle with no tailstock support (the walnut piece in the second photo above). Using this method would require a through hole on the lathe spindle.
* Another possible way is to use a collet chuck if you can find one in the thread size you need. I don't have a collet chuck but I do have a #2MT collet I use for this. I have a set sized from 1/8" to 1/2" (I use the 1/2") This could be used with a #1MT to #2 adapter but probably only with tailstock support. This is the an MT collet:
collet_2MT.jpg
BTW, collets are not only extremely secure but unlike a jawed chuck the work can be removed and remounted and stay in perfect registration. (Same thing for the turned MT.)
* Another way I've turned small things is to make a jam/cup chuck. Cup chucks used to be widely used decades ago. Made of steel, they thread onto the headstock spindle and the wood is forced (sometimes with a mallet) into the cylindrical cup. Very secure. I've saw a video once where a turner was making one piece after another with no tail stock support. I don't know if you can buy one to fit that lathe but what I did was make one from wood: drilled a hole in a block of wood (I used lignum vitae) and tapped it to fit my lathe spindle. Turned it round and made a suitable cylindrical hole in the end about 1" deep and about 1/2" in diameter. Turn a 1/2" tenon on the stock and tap it firmly into the hole. With a thru hole in the jam chuck the piece can be tapped out when done with a rod. Needs no tail stock support if if the blank is not too long.
If he is interested and can't find one any machinist could make one threaded to fit the lathe spindle your friend has. I don't think it would cost much. You can probably google "cup chuck" for pictures and info. Here are some: https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/imag...duct/a6914.jpg
* Hey, where does your friend live? If by chance he is close to me I might consider loaning him a spare Jet mini for a while - it will easily turn your G3 chuck.
JKJ
Contributor
Harbor Freight has a M1 taper chuck. You could reverse chuck it and drill and tap the end for a draw bar for him.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch...ank-65132.html
[OP]
Member
I've been thinking about a cup chuck for me, but my lathe weighs 450 pounds, his about 65 lbs. Might work better than a drill chuck.
Moderator
Hey, just buy the friend a lathe that matches yours. Then you can share everything!
JKJ
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