Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 42

Thread: How would you install this vanity?

  1. #1

    How would you install this vanity?

    i have been asked to build a vanity similar to the one pictured here, but the bottom shelf will extend all the way to the right wall. I have studs 16 inches OC on the back wall. How would you recommend mounting this? Is there commercial hardware I can use?
    received_925103571239451.jpeg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    NE OH
    Posts
    2,615
    Günter, there are quite a variety of commercial brackets you could use. A search for floating shelf brackets will find you a few styles. You could also use the hidden brackets used for floating countertops (search for floating countertop brackets). The latter tend to be beefier since they are made to support granite countertops, but usually require some access to the framing in the wall.

    I have used the floating shelf brackets that consist of a long metal bar that gets fastened to every stud in the wall and then has tubes extending outward that get embedded in the shelving.

    Some folks just bore 1/2 holes into the studs and insert steel rods that get embedded in the shelf. I don't like to do that in a bathroom because if you miss hitting the stud right on center you risk hitting plumbing. Plus the framing in bathroom wet walls has often been compromised already by the plumber drilling holes and cutting notches for the plumbing, and I don't like to risk weakening it further.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  3. #3
    How big will this be? Any idea what it will weigh? How many studs will you have behind it? Do you have access to the framing?

    Like Paul said there are many floating shelf brackets available but most are made for lightweight shelf’s, not a heavy vanity. The countertop version he mentions sounds to me like the best option.

  4. #4
    about 6 feet long. This is new construction so I may have access to the wall. On the far right I can mount both the top and bottom to the right wall. The far left will be floating. The end will be dovetailed to the top and bottom. It will be made of 8/4 ash, so it will be heavy.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    142
    It would be slightly visible, but I can picture a cleat made of the same ash. Run it the entire length from the left end to the wall and along the right end, front to back. Bolt it to the wall with lags and plug the holes. Then set the vanity on it and run screws from the bottom up - angle these to draw the vanity tight to the wall.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,882
    If you have the wall open consider adding a stud or fireblocks where needed. The fire blocks can be turned on the side for bigger targets. I used 2x6 around the bathtub.
    Bill D

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    There’s no need for special hardware. A few wood screws will hold it. Under each horizontal part, I’d glue a piece of wood at the rear which is 3/4” square or so, and the length of the part. At install, I’d locate each stud, and run a screw through the flange into each one. To see those screw heads, somebody will have to be sitting on the floor peering inside. They’ll also be looking at plumbing entrails, so a screw head or two won’t matter. If you’re really concerned about it, use pocket screws.

    Be sure to tell the rough plumber where you need the plumbing to come out of the wall.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    To be clear, floating shelf brackets are needed when you’re trying to hang a shelf that might be only 2” tall by 12” or more front-to-back. In that 2” there’s not much leverage to prevent the front edge of the shelf from drooping if you load it. The pictured shelf has plenty of height , so it has plenty of leverage to hold up the front edge under load.

    The pictured shelf is more related to the upper cabinets in a kitchen. Those are routinely fastened with just a few screws along the top edge.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ingleside, IL
    Posts
    1,417
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    There’s no need for special hardware. A few wood screws will hold it. Under each horizontal part, I’d glue a piece of wood at the rear which is 3/4” square or so, and the length of the part. At install, I’d locate each stud, and run a screw through the flange into each one. To see those screw heads, somebody will have to be sitting on the floor peering inside. They’ll also be looking at plumbing entrails, so a screw head or two won’t matter. If you’re really concerned about it, use pocket screws.

    Be sure to tell the rough plumber where you need the plumbing to come out of the wall.

    2nd this. And if you won't ever be the one to remove it, you could plug the holes, then sand and finish them.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    I'd probably consider using "hidden" shelf/mantle brackets for something like that.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Eastern Iowa
    Posts
    751
    Pocket screws from the bottom at each stud on both shelves.

    2x blocking on edge if you still have access to framing then 12” oc , if not no big deal, 16” centers should be adequate.
    Last edited by Charlie Velasquez; 01-17-2020 at 6:36 PM.
    Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,593
    Blog Entries
    1
    I would locate the studs in the wall behind and on the right side. I would make pocket hole type hole so they come out of the back edge about 1/2" from the top surface, leaving plenty of wood between the point where the screw head will be flush with the bottom surface. Then anchor the vanity to the wall with 6" or 8" Timberloc screws (depending upon the angle of the screws and the total thickness of the wall,) one into each stud. Do the same with the lower shelf. These screws have a tensile strength of 1950 pounds, so the wood will fail before the screws will.
    timber loc.jpg
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Norristown, Pa
    Posts
    269
    Second Lee method, but with 2 x 6 as blocking between studs.
    Bob

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bedford, NH
    Posts
    1,286
    French cleat.
    Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
    As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!

    "We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
    “The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
    "
    Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill

  15. #15
    I would anchor angle iron to the wall and hide it within the shelf and countertop.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •