Has anyone used Enduro Conversion Varnish ? How does it compare in durability to Clear Poly or Endurovar? Do you think it can outperform Waterlox?
I am finishing a kitchen island and my default is Waterlox but I would prefer to spray.
Has anyone used Enduro Conversion Varnish ? How does it compare in durability to Clear Poly or Endurovar? Do you think it can outperform Waterlox?
I am finishing a kitchen island and my default is Waterlox but I would prefer to spray.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 02-09-2020 at 12:05 PM.
I went with Target EM8000CV + CL Cross linker.
Anyone ever use this product over danish oil. Specs say best used only over water based stains. Danish oil specs state can be top-coated after 72 hours.
That’s what I am thinking Jim. I plan on waiting at least a week before I do anything.
This is my default topcoat. Durability and short recoat times. It is a joy to spray.
Chuck
I have had a great experience (so far) with Target EM8000CV with the cross linker. I am using the flat sheen.
When put on raw wood, the flat sheen not only lacks any color, it lacks any depth whatsoever. It's as if an invisible coat is placed on the wood. I did not want that effect.
So, I coated with 2 coats of Waterlox Original Sealer Finish, then a thin coat of garnet shellac. I only used the garnet because I had it on hand.
My sanding wasn’t perfect. I have some undulations from plane track marks I missed.
This is where a flat sheen is great. It hides almost everything. The last pic shows it drying for 30 mins @ 60 degrees. You can still see a little striping, and in the center you can see where my sanding failed to remove all of the underlying track marks from the plane; there are some undulations there. As the finish dries and the sheen reduces, this should disappear.
I sprayed this with a Fuji Semipro 2 stage. I now use the 3m PPS cup system which is just fantastic for cleanup, and for its ability to spray at any angle. The PPS system is great because your finish stays in a collapsable bag that keeps all air and hence sputtering as the finish is used up.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 02-09-2020 at 8:58 PM.
Dang....that looks really good, Prashun!!! Is that the island top we were chatting about?
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Thanks for all your help, Jim. Yes. That’s the one.
Nice work Prashun!
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
I'm going to have to order some product in the matte/flat sheen...I really love that look.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Great look. The color looks very natural. Good info on the 3M system as well, thanks!
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Can this be applied with a brush or a pad instead of spraying? Thanks -Howard
Howard,
I didn't see anything in the instruction sheets that led me to believe that it cannot be brushed. I believe it is a little too thick and would dry too fast to be wipeable. I strongly suspect this to be the case because on test boards, I actually do wipe a little on with a blue towel, and it's a mess to get it leveled. It appears to stay wetter, longer than the two GF products I've used (Endurovar and Clear Poly) so, I suspect it would brush a little easier than those two.
Brushing or padding a flatter sheen may pose other problems. Shooting these are good because the gun (and the PPS) keep it moving and mixed properly.
You "can" hand apply it, but like many waterborne finishes, the dry time is so fast that it's going to be more of a challenge to get a nice even application. I don't prefer hand applying even the waterborne stuff from the 'borg for that reason and they tend to have slightly longer dry times because they are designed for folks to be able to hand apply them. Buy a quart and see what you think.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...