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Thread: Quick question about putting dado blades on/off a table saw

  1. #1

    Question Quick question about putting dado blades on/off a table saw

    I've been switching blades a lot lately and there has to be a better way than mine. What I'm doing is basically just jiggling each blade around while gently pushing it sideways. In the end that always works, but sometimes it slides half an inch at once, sometimes it just doesn't move, and once in a while it gets stuck at a slight angle. Do people just get better at this with practice, or is there a better way?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
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    3,765
    To me that’s means it’s a nice tight fit. That’s much better then loose fit. I’ve used a table saw with a under sized arbor that was worn and it wasn’t a smooth cutting saw.

    Good Luck
    Aj

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,272
    Quote Originally Posted by rudy de haas View Post
    I've been switching blades a lot lately and there has to be a better way than mine. What I'm doing is basically just jiggling each blade around while gently pushing it sideways. In the end that always works, but sometimes it slides half an inch at once, sometimes it just doesn't move, and once in a while it gets stuck at a slight angle. Do people just get better at this with practice, or is there a better way?
    You just get better with practice.

    As Andrew said, it indicates your machine has good tolerances........Rod.

  4. #4
    Yep to both. Most of the dulling to dados is done putting them on and taking them off. If it takes a little oil or "never
    seize " to make the job a little easier I use it. In employments I've made boxes for them out of 3/4 plywood . Cutters are
    vertical in slots,handles are garden hose long enough to easily pick them from the floor. Then they can't fall on the floor, and
    won't be knocked together. I worked for one guy who had 3 ten inch Forrest sets that had been co- mingled. I sorted
    them for closest size and color coded each set. When mixed sets are sharpened a lot of carbide and money are lost.

  5. #5
    Thanks - I feel much better now..

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,562
    If it bothers you that much, try cutting a 6" of 2x4, put a 3/4" hole in the middle of it, and once the blade is on the shaft, use the block to push it evenly the rest of the way.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    East Virginia
    Posts
    830
    Or just put one finger on each side of the arbor – with both fingers touching the arbor – and push the blade toward the flange that way.

  8. #8
    I sometimes use a spare table saw to cut dados - to avoid switching back and forth. I have a really junk direct drive Ryobi I've used for this and will probably throw it away (kind of lerry of selling it, the fence requires squaring for every cut) and use my BT3100 for it (another Ryobi but a much better saw). My assembly table has two poles that pull out so I can mount a portable at the height of the assembly table - then store it underneith when I am done.

    The setup is still the same but if I already have a dado setup on the saw, the number of cutters to change does down.

    It was especially nice to have two when I was redoing a staircase. I had dados in the risers for the back of the treads to lock into and a rabbet on the back edge of the tread to slide into it. It was nice to still have the saw available but be able to cut the dados and that setup cut the rabbets faster.

  9. #9
    Good idea - I'll try it - and Rick Potter's suggestion above too. Thanks!

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