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Thread: Super Max 19-38 drum alignment

  1. #1
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    Super Max 19-38 drum alignment

    I am setting up my new 19-38. Any ideas on how to accurately set the drum alignment. The height adjustment knob has quite a bit of slop in it so using their method I don't think it's very accurate.

    If I put a board on the right side then lower the roller onto the board until I can no longer roll it easily by hand. I then crank the height adjustment up one turn and move the board to the left side. I then lower the drum back by one turn. When I do this the left side is easier to move the drum by hand that the right, however the slop in the height adjustment is enough that I can't tell whether I should try adjusting the roller or not.

    Got any better ideas on how to adjust the drum?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    I had a similar issue. The sander was taking more material the motor side of the drum than the open end.

    I read the manual a few times as I typically rush through that stuff. You need to adjust the table with the allen screws on the outside. The cast iron arm was about 1/32" lower on the motor side. I adjusted the table and followed it with a dial indicator.

    These are the screws. You adjust them to get the table parallel to the drum.


  3. #3
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    The loose height adjustment is the problem with checking the distance, on mine there is a set screw in the handle that needs to be tightened once a year or so, and if it's loose then the height control is very sloppy, but once you tighten it the slop will all go away and then you can check the alignment with blocks. The other way to check is is with a wide board or piece of plywood, run it through and then measure both sides, front and back and see how much difference there is, then adjust the outer end till it's as close to equal as you can get.
    Zach

  4. #4
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    I have a different brand. The best way I have found to make sure that the drum is parallel is to use two 1-2-3 setup blocks with no sandpaper attached. The 2" works best for me. One on the inboard side & the other under the onboard end of the drum.

  5. #5
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    I'm not sure if the instructions are different now that Laguna has them. My instructions are pretty straight forward and I have never had to re-adjust the table to drum alignment since I first set it up. I guess it is important to realize that you do not adjust or align the drum, you align the table to the drum.

    "If the drum is not parallel, loosen the four socket head cap screws (along the outboard edge of the conveyor) (Fig. 7) and raise or lower the conveyor with the 7/16” adjustment nut to achieve parallel alignment. Tighten the four socket head cap screws."

    The threading of the 7/16" nut allows very precise adjustments. I raise the drum a few inches and use a poor-man's Rotocator (shown here aligning my planer).

    Rotocator-poor-mans.jpg

    Seemed to work more reliably than a piece of wood or bar stock.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #6
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    Maybe I could use a setup block and feeler gauge and check it that way

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Drackman View Post
    I have a different brand. The best way I have found to make sure that the drum is parallel is to use two 1-2-3 setup blocks with no sandpaper attached. The 2" works best for me. One on the inboard side & the other under the onboard end of the drum.
    A 2" setup block worked for me. I got the same results as the piece of wood. The outboard side was too high. I got it set where the roller just kissed the block on each side

    Next question for those with a Supermax. On the intellisand control on any number less than 20 the conveyor belt doesn't move. Is this normal?

  8. #8
    I think that's true with the speed of the belt. I was a little bummed when I noticed that. The dial has also moved on me.

    I'm slowly learning more how to use my supermax on endgrain cutting boards to avoid burning in. I've had much more luck with 60 grit than 80 grit in flattening. I've also noticed it works really well to crank up the speed and take lots of light cuts initially then, keep the wood and paper from getting warm. I'm still trying to perfect not getting lines and so far it helps to keep sanding at a desired height until I don't hear the paper touching, seems to have worked.

  9. #9
    I put a board under the drum but parallel to and under the drum instead of at a right angle as per the manual. That let me do a visual and use feeler gages at both ends. It goes without saying the board needs to be flat and true.

  10. #10
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    The knob will turn on the shaft, so the numbers don't mean much. If you want you can get it so it starts turning just past the 0 mark, but then it may not go all the way up to 100. I don't worry about the number, I just see if I like the speed. I do almost everything at full speed, since I'm mostly either sanding narrow strips or taking very shallow passes on wider ones.
    Zach

  11. #11
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    Thanks to all of you very much

  12. #12
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    I've had no luck trying to use a measuring device to adjust my table to the head, I do some actual sanding to test. I use a flat wide board, scribble on it with a pencil and run it through with the paper just kissing the board. it's immediately obvious which side is high or low. Tweak it until the sanding pattern is uniform across the board (if you keep rotating the board you won't create a wedge-shape.) Re-check at the end with a freshly planed board or flat piece of plywood.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by roger wiegand View Post
    I've had no luck trying to use a measuring device to adjust my table to the head, I do some actual sanding to test. I use a flat wide board, scribble on it with a pencil and run it through with the paper just kissing the board. it's immediately obvious which side is high or low. Tweak it until the sanding pattern is uniform across the board (if you keep rotating the board you won't create a wedge-shape.) Re-check at the end with a freshly planed board or flat piece of plywood.
    Thanks I can try that as well

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