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Thread: Checking DP runout - what do you use for a precision rod?

  1. #1
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    Checking DP runout - what do you use for a precision rod?

    Just recently set up my new Nova Voyager drill press. Had to do some other things for a few weeks but I'm now getting back to it. I'm curious how well I set up my chuck/arbor/spindle assembly. Several have posted the runout they measure. I guess I could spend the money on a precision rod, but I guess I'm feeling a bit frugal today. So, I googled up a couple posts on other forums that mentioned using a flush trim bit with a bearing and measure off the bearing or a drill bit with unfluted shaft near the shank. Not sure how well either of those would work, although the unfluted drill bit sounds a little more of a sound test to me.

    So, what do you all use?

    Thanks!
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    Just recently set up my new Nova Voyager drill press. Had to do some other things for a few weeks but I'm now getting back to it. I'm curious how well I set up my chuck/arbor/spindle assembly. Several have posted the runout they measure. I guess I could spend the money on a precision rod, but I guess I'm feeling a bit frugal today. So, I googled up a couple posts on other forums that mentioned using a flush trim bit with a bearing and measure off the bearing or a drill bit with unfluted shaft near the shank. Not sure how well either of those would work, although the unfluted drill bit sounds a little more of a sound test to me.

    So, what do you all use?

    Thanks!
    A 1/2" x 12" blank drill rod is around $10. Use with a square for setting up the drill's table when not checking quill / chuck runout.

    Seems like a router bit would be annoyingly short to try to indicate accurately from.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Kelly View Post
    A 1/2" x 12" blank drill rod is around $10. Use with a square for setting up the drill's table when not checking quill / chuck runout.
    Same here. (Oh, you use one too.) Does the trick, for my purposes.

  4. #4
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    Ground drill rod or dowel pin. The longer the better. You really need to remove the arbor and indicate the taper first. Then indicate the installed adapter, if used. Lastly, indicate off something in the chuck.
    Bill D

  5. #5
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    Ok, I"ll break down and spend $10.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    You really need to remove the arbor and indicate the taper first. Then indicate the installed adapter, if used. Lastly, indicate off something in the chuck.
    Bill D
    I figured that if the first read off the chuck was good enough I'd stop right there. But if not, then I'd disassemble and go step by step.

    Thanks guys!
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    Just recently set up my new Nova Voyager drill press. Had to do some other things for a few weeks but I'm now getting back to it. I'm curious how well I set up my chuck/arbor/spindle assembly. Several have posted the runout they measure. I guess I could spend the money on a precision rod, but I guess I'm feeling a bit frugal today. So, I googled up a couple posts on other forums that mentioned using a flush trim bit with a bearing and measure off the bearing or a drill bit with unfluted shaft near the shank. Not sure how well either of those would work, although the unfluted drill bit sounds a little more of a sound test to me.

    So, what do you all use?

    Thanks!
    Hi Brian

    I recently went through this, and posted the method and results here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....19#post2973519

    I used the shaft of a carbide 1/4” router bit. This proved to be more reliable and more accurate than a short length of drill rod (which had been supplied for setting up circle cutting jig). Carbide bits are polished and smooth.

    Regards from Singapore

    Derek

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Hi Brian

    I recently went through this, and posted the method and results here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....19#post2973519

    I used the shaft of a carbide 1/4” router bit. This proved to be more reliable and more accurate than a short length of drill rod (which had been supplied for setting up circle cutting jig). Carbide bits are polished and smooth.

    Regards from Singapore

    Derek
    Hi Derek, thanks for your post. I had forgotten that you posted about this when you set up your Nova. I think I might have the very same bit that you used. I'll give it a shot.

    How's your great journey going?

    Thanks, Brian
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    Hi Derek, thanks for your post. I had forgotten that you posted about this when you set up your Nova. I think I might have the very same bit that you used. I'll give it a shot.

    How's your great journey going?

    Thanks, Brian
    Hi Brian

    Last leg before home in two days. It has been a busy, interesting and memorable trip. Now officially exhausted and re-climatising in Singapore (for heat after the cold of Europe) ... also to break what otherwise would have been a 17 hour flight. Only 5 hours to Perth.

    Just back from drinking Singapore Slings at the famous Raffles Bar. I preferred the German beer

    Some woodworking content: Visited the Singapore Botanical Gardens today. There was an interesting carving of swans in the middle of a lake ...



    ... which I could swear was carved from a single piece!



    Regards from Singapore

    Derek

  9. #9
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    Wow! That's an amazing carving! Thanks for the picture.

    .. a 17 hr flight... I can't even imagine that. I did a 13 hr flight ..once.. from Minneapolis to Tokyo and it was brutal. Thanks goodness we had tail winds on the return flight, it was only 11.5 hrs.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

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