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Thread: Masking Tape Suggestions

  1. #1

    Question Masking Tape Suggestions

    Hi people,

    Thanx in advance for any assistance. Its greatly appreciated.


    So I seen alot of people meantion masking tape, but havent gotten around to find any of the wider rolls, that people some times talk about.

    Could some share a bit of info, on where they get the tape from or maybe just point me in the right direction?

  2. #2
    What you'll need is most likely called transfer tape. You can buy it from a sign supply wholesaler. I buy high tack.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  3. #3
    This is the last one I bought - 12" wide http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Worked pretty good on walnut and maple on some Christmas ornaments I didn't want to sand. These work pretty good at smoothing out the tape - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Undis View Post
    This is the last one I bought - 12" wide http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Worked pretty good on walnut and maple on some Christmas ornaments I didn't want to sand. These work pretty good at smoothing out the tape - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    That was exactly was i was looking for
    And it works well with the laser and how about acrylic?
    Last edited by Soren Christensen; 01-17-2020 at 4:49 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Sammamish, WA
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    I also use 12” high tack transfer tape, for wood, acrylic and other plastics. It’s easily removed, and if used for paint fill doesn’t bleed. It also helps reduce charring on wood.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Pelonio View Post
    I also use 12” high tack transfer tape, for wood, acrylic and other plastics. It’s easily removed, and if used for paint fill doesn’t bleed. It also helps reduce charring on wood.
    Is high tack needed, or is it different for every brand? I'm guessing some brands are better than others?

  7. #7
    Never used it on acrylic. I usually cut mirrored acrylic and vector etch the backside.

  8. #8
    Don't be confused by the term "high tack" when it comes to transfer tape. It's not as sticky as ordinary masking tape. You need the high tack for unfinished wood and textured materials.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    Don't be confused by the term "high tack" when it comes to transfer tape. It's not as sticky as ordinary masking tape. You need the high tack for unfinished wood and textured materials.
    So you wouldnt need high tack for acrylic? you could settle with med tack for instance?

  10. #10
    I think you're over-thinking this. The clear acrylic I engrave comes with a protective paper which I engrave through. I don't use tape on laminated plastics. The high tack sticks better to unfinished wood otherwise medium will do just fine.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    I think you're over-thinking this. The clear acrylic I engrave comes with a protective paper which I engrave through. I don't use tape on laminated plastics. The high tack sticks better to unfinished wood otherwise medium will do just fine.
    I have actually tried Trotecs Trolase acrylic on a fablab closeby, but every time I keep the protective plastic on, the lines just keeps getting a bit blurry and it wont penetrate the plastic completely

    And the laser is a Bodor 120w, running the job at 300s 25/30 power. And it seems that it needs 2 times to get the proper result, and yet some of the details still wont get done right. Without the protective plastic, it works fine but i get sod on the edges and it dosnt really make a new run.

    Im starting to think, that its the lasers fault :P

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Medina Ohio
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    4,530
    Quote Originally Posted by Soren Christensen View Post
    I have actually tried Trotecs Trolase acrylic on a fablab closeby, but every time I keep the protective plastic on, the lines just keeps getting a bit blurry and it wont penetrate the plastic completely

    And the laser is a Bodor 120w, running the job at 300s 25/30 power. And it seems that it needs 2 times to get the proper result, and yet some of the details still wont get done right. Without the protective plastic, it works fine but i get sod on the edges and it dosnt really make a new run.

    Im starting to think, that its the lasers fault :P
    I think that you are trying to use extruded Acrylic and not cast. Cast engraves and cuts better

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerome Stanek View Post
    I think that you are trying to use extruded Acrylic and not cast. Cast engraves and cuts better
    It doesn't seem like extruded acrylic:


    https://www.trotec-materials.com/las...c/trolase.html

    I doubt they would sell something for engraving, if it wasn't good for engraving

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Maple, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,011
    Soren,

    When cutting only you can leave protective film on.
    For engraving remove film. If you do both, remove film and engrave then before cutting apply paper transfer tape. This requires sending job separate.
    Trotec Speedy 300 - 60w, with Quatro CSA-626 fume extraction
    Xenetech 1625 x2,
    New Hermes TX pantograph, CG4 cutter grinder
    Brady Globalmark2 label printer,
    Assortment of custom tooling , shears & punches, heat bender.
    Software: Xenetech XOT, Corel X3, Bartender label software

  15. #15
    Plastic film should always be removed before engraving. I just remove plastic film regardless but most cast acrylic comes with a paper cover and I engrave through that just to ease clean-up.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

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