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Thread: Image transfer to wood

  1. #1

    Image transfer to wood

    Wanted to post here for insight on what people have seen for best results in image wood transfer.
    I have seen quite a few articles listing polycrylic as one of the best methods for transferring printed images to wood.
    one of the articles highlighted a specific product by Tom Palissade for very specific properties of image transfer. Better transfer, no rubbing seems to be the main aspects.
    I have contacted him since it appears his product is out of stock for the foreseeable future, but no reply yet of alternative options.
    was hoping someone here might have some ideas of other types of transfer paper or other options for the best image transfer.
    prints are from a high resolution laser printer. Destination is a wood surface (pine probably) already finished with SW proclassic acrylic white.

  2. #2
    Check out this YouTube video. The guy uses the shiny paper that computer printer mailing labels are attached to. Remove the labels and print on the shiny side.

    No rubbing and very good transfer.

    https://youtu.be/h7FKdW5ndLw

  3. #3
    Think I've seen that one already. I'm certainly up for giving it a try though!
    Found a couple posting about various types of transfer, some with just regular copy paper. Acetone being one and polycryclic being the best without any special transfer paper. Another posting says even though the polycrylic was great, using a unique transfer paper that is really thin made it even better. don't mind rubbing some of the paper off to get the end result, but figured since it was mentioned I'd at least look into it. Might be more of a hassle to get a specific type of paper than just trying it with copier stock.
    The Palissade guy is from Paris and it sounds like his shop is something just from his house. so even when he does get more stock in, receiving it might take a while.
    The other thing I was trying to figure out is if the wood piece needs to have a white background, if the polycrylic would have any interaction with an acrylic white paint like the SW proclassic. I happen to have some of that so I figured I'd use it. but if another type of paint would be better then I'm all ears.

    Thanks!

  4. #4
    I don’t think you need white paint or any paint to transfer on to. I’ve even heard of people using pages of magazines to print onto.

  5. #5
    The aim is for the entire piece of wood to be white with the image applied onto it.

  6. #6
    If you’re going to paint it white, the image might transfer to that without the need for polycrylic. Let us know what you decide on and how it turns out.

  7. #7
    possibly true. I think the process in general will require a decent amount of trial and error. The examples show PC being used to transfer to bare wood but all the notes keep saying it should also apply to painted wood.
    I just wanted to make sure I wasn't completely overlooking a chemical aspect of two things like PC and acrylic being disastrous in the first place and avoiding a predetermined failure.

  8. #8
    As long as they are dry I don’t think there will be a reaction with the transferred image.

  9. #9
    I've been wondering about the same thing, watched the vid of the guy with the mailing label, etc. Then I found this vid:

    https://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/print-on-wood/

    I think we may have been over-thinking this...

  10. #10
    I know there are two very different approaches, one with laserjet/toner and one with inkjet but the processes for each aren't interchangeable. I don't have a color inkjet so my focus has been on the toner one.
    With our hands full with our new little boy, the extent of me getting out to the shop is a mere thought right now. Have to plan out a day we can get someone to watch him so I can dedicate time in the shop.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    For scroll sawing, I have laser printed mirror images of what I want, on paper with the printer set to print as dark as possible. Then I attached the paper to the wood, printed face down and applied a hot iron to the paper. The hot iron melts the toner (which is high temperature wax powder) and it transfers to the wood. I use a piece of masking or painters tape along one edge of the paper to form a hinge, so I can lift the paper to check progress without losing the alignment, so if any part doesn't transfer well, I can go back and apply the hot iron a little longer to that area.

    This will take a bit of experimenting, especially since your wood will be painted before applying the image. An oil based paint would hold up to the heat much better than latex. I never tried this on painted wood.

    Charley

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    This morning I received an email from Steve Good. In today's email, he detailed a way to print colored inkjet images on the backer that comes with the labels in sheet form. You trash the labels and keep the backer, feed it into your printer, and the wet image printed on it can then be applied to the wood carefully, so as not to slide the backer as the image is applied. Pressing or rolling, or even dragging the edge of a credit card across the back side of the backer sheet is needed to assure that the whole image transfers. Then you remove the backer, and the image will be on the wood. Light colored wood with little to no open grain works best, according to Steve. After the image dries, he recommends spraying it with a clear acrylic. Then after that dries you can likely apply poly, or whatever finish that you prefer.

    I like the idea, and will be trying it on the next box that I build.

    Charley

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