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Thread: Hanging Heavy Record Cabinets

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    What about an oversized steel washer between the head of each GRX fastener and the interior of the carcase? Like a giant fender washer? Or perhaps a vertical steel plate on the back interior wall of the box that would align with the location of the studs, which you could drill holes through in the appropriate locations for the fasteners to go through? Like a mending plate, only beefier? Just thinking out loud.

    Erik
    A washer would certainly spread the load over the 'back' of the cabinet - and can't hurt, but you are still facing the limits of whatever 'pull' resistance the fasteners can provide (still thinking the shear load is not critical here).

    Another thought would be to extend the back of the cabinet up the wall (past the top shelf). This changes the 'lever arm' of the fasteners, and so quickly makes the torque loading insignificant - relative to the shear load. It just (probably) ruins the design!

    Your idea of a steel plate would be great, if you could extend it up the wall above the cabinet - say double the height of the cabinet, then drywall over it - leaving steel fastening points (weld nuts?) exposed on the bottom half of the plate. Getting complicated to describe, but could put as many nuts as needed, with no thought to the stud locations, and 'pull resistance' of steel, not wood..?

    "You can have your project good, fast, and cheap. Pick 2!"

  2. #17
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    Well, - to put it bluntly - I wouldn't even dream about hanging my appx 1200 LPs on a wall! A rough calculation says that 10 LP weigh appx 5 lbs...add a bit for margin... The size of the shelf itself is maybe of less concern than the actual number of records.......

    I haven't really any good suggestions, except that any change of design that can distribute som of the load to the floor would be beneficial. Anyway - a solid inset back to give room for two or three precisely placed hidden french cleats pr section "could" be the solution....

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Halgeir Wold View Post
    Well, - to put it bluntly - I wouldn't even dream about hanging my appx 1200 LPs on a wall! A rough calculation says that 10 LP weigh appx 5 lbs...add a bit for margin... The size of the shelf itself is maybe of less concern than the actual number of records.......

    I haven't really any good suggestions, except that any change of design that can distribute som of the load to the floor would be beneficial. Anyway - a solid inset back to give room for two or three precisely placed hidden french cleats pr section "could" be the solution....
    So your collection weighs ~600lbs, and assuming 35lbs/ft, would take a little more than 17 linear ft of storage.

    Daniel's (OP) estimate of 1000 lbs is not off-base... (12 ft/row x 2 rows x 35 lbs/ft = 840 lbs) and allows ~160 lbs for shelves. (I'd probably estimate a bit more for the shelving, but he's in the right ball park. Certainly he's close enough to plan the fasteners.)

  4. #19
    Thanks everyone for your thoughtful replies! I’m going ahead with the project and building it as strongly as possible. I’ll be adding 1” thick maple cleats in back (top will be a french cleat for easier install). I’ll lag these cleats using washer head structural screws at the top and bottom of the cabinets on every stud. The back is rabbeted into the cabinet as well as screwed using washer head #10 grks into the cabinet grid pattern. I am considering cutting a strip of drywall out about 11’ by 8-10” to add blocking between each stud. Sounding reasonable?

  5. #20
    Join Date
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    I'd employ a little different approach by putting these in the wall and setting the bottom on them as well as the French cleat that's been suggested.

    https://www.aandmhardware.com/concealed-flats.php

    a lot more work though.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Sabo View Post
    I'd employ a little different approach by putting these in the wall and setting the bottom on them as well as the French cleat that's been suggested.

    https://www.aandmhardware.com/concealed-flats.php

    a lot more work though.
    I think these might be the way to go. This would just about guarantee against any failure of the cabinet back. Thanks

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    i hang floating cabinets frequently.
    horizontal supports are OK.
    But ideally, the back needs to be cut after the sides/top/bottom are assembled.
    The back is measured to the inside dimension, then rubber mallet into place and make it flush.
    Screw sides and tops for the uppers.
    Screw sides and bottom for the base floaters.
    Add end panels.

    I also use these brackets for base cabinets:
    https://www.aandmhardware.com/concealed-flats.php

    I also want to reccomend splitting this in thirds. it will be easier for you to install and "the power of thirds" is pretty accurate for beautiful design.
    I didn't draw this perfectly, but thirds would be 47.75" width's. based on your 143.25" total width.


    How high are these off of the floor?
    Sometimes I use 3/4 x 3/4 angle's where the cabinet sides are. Hold the angle short of the end and it won't be seen.

    this upper I did was designed "using the power of thirds"
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mike waters; 02-09-2020 at 10:20 AM.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    TX / LA border.. Toledo Bend
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    The GRK screws mentioned above are called "GRK RSS"

    Convenient source for small quantity individual single screws is Lowes, on the shelf next to the GRK R4 screws.

    Prudent to confirm no wiring, plumbing etc in the way... Maybe overkill but I would go for 3" in the stud.

    I installed 1,300 8" ones on a retaining wall job - NO predrilling of any kind...Only ONE failed in any way... and that was just gook in the torx hole.

    Marc

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/GRK-RSS-5-1...unt/1000694726

    https://www.grkfasteners.com/getatta...ct-Information
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    The GRK screws mentioned above are called "GRK RSS"

    Convenient source for small quantity individual single screws is Lowes, on the shelf next to the GRK R4 screws.

    Prudent to confirm no wiring, plumbing etc in the way... Maybe overkill but I would go for 3" in the stud.

    I installed 1,300 8" ones on a retaining wall job - NO predrilling of any kind...Only ONE failed in any way... and that was just gook in the torx hole.

    Marc

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/GRK-RSS-5-1...unt/1000694726

    https://www.grkfasteners.com/getatta...ct-Information

    i use the 3" ones.
    +1 this comment.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
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    Consider some unexpected conditions;

    A minor earthquake, French cleats might be a bad idea

    The impact of boys horsing around

    Strong wind flexing the house

    Stuff piled on top of the loaded cabinets

    With this in mind you might decide to add a couple of legs a few inches out from the wall. If you turn some columns they will look cool.

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