Helix Head for Delta Jointer?

[Mike Vsoika]

I picked up a Delta 37-150 Jointer for $50 a while ago. It cuts just OK. Is it really worth it to put a helix head on it ~$400? The head is worth more than the machine itself. Or is it best to buy a machine with a helix head already installed? $400 is better than the cost of a new machine but I don't think I'd ever get my $$ back on the Delta if I wanted to sell it. Dilemma.....

[Mark Hockenberg]

Mike,

I have that exact jointer - The old DJ-15. I bought mine 20 years ago. It's still running perfectly and looks brand new. They were really nice machines. I put a Byrd Shelix cutterhead in it and have been very happy with the performance.

If the one you bought is in good shape and you're OK with a 6" jointer, it's not a bad investment - You'll have a great 6" jointer for $450. I agree that you won't recover the cost of the cutterhead easily.

If I were starting over, I would have purchased an 8" jointer minimum. So if you think you might want that capacity at some point, you should clean up the DJ-50, sell it for more than you paid for it, and buy an 8" with a helical head.

If you want a cutterhead with straight knives for the 37-150, let me know...

Cheers,
Mark

[Mark Carlson]

If you're going to use it and keep it, then yes. If you're going to use it rarely or think you're going to upgrade to a 8in, then no. Note shelixheads.com has a byrd head for $309 without bearings for the 37-150.

[Will Blick]

NOt sure how complex the install will be on your jointer, but for my 12" Grizz, putting the Byrd on, and getting it perfectly aligned was no easy task, and a two man job.
Needles to say, I now only buy tools with the Byrd installed. Last purchase was a 20" PM with Byrd, and I still spent half a day getting the tables perfectly aligned. But once set up, what a dream planer.
I also agree with the other posters..... big difference between 6" and 8". 8" covers most hardwoods, specially if you clean up the edges first. 12" is ideal. Dont rule out a combo machine. I also have a 12" Jet combo with Byrd head from factory, and it was shockingly well made considering the price point. This way, one Byrd head for two machining tasks, much less costly. Change-over not as cumbersome as I thought...

[Mark Hockenberg]

The installation of the Byrd head on Mike's jointer is very easy. I trust Will that the 12" Griz was challenging. Just saying that I installed the Byrd on my Delta (same model as Mike's) in no time and alignment was perfect.

[Mike Vsoika]

I'll go with the new head on the Delta. I use a jointer sparingly on small-ish widths not over 3" and lengths not over 2'. But when I do use it I want a cleaner cut than knives can provide. Thanks everyone for the help!

[Greg Funk]

What's the advantage of a helical head on a jointer? I usually do some level of machining after jointing. Maybe I don't work with exotic enough woods but I rarely see any substantial tearout that would make me want to change heads. Curious what I'm missing.

[Will Blick]

I once had a Makita LBox planer, the cut quality was superb, as good as anything. It was finely tuned, and I kept replacing the blades when they dulled.. ONly really figured woods would create mild tear out... taking lighter passes would sometimes help this. So I will be the first to admit, you can get some great finishes with non helical heads, even straight blades.

what I live about the helical heads?
NOISE.... my straight edge planers sounded like a 747 taking off... could only use it certain hours due to neighbors or people in my house. The Byrd head is so silent, no hearing protection required, and you can hold a conversation with someone right next to the machine!

SHARPENING ... I hated the time required to set new blades in my jointer... they need to be perfectly straight, on the same plane with each other. They need to be sharpened so the edges are straight...or if you just replace them, the cost factor. The Byrd head has carbide cutters, they are so sharp, I still never rotated mine, that blows me away. When required, I have 3 additional sets of blades by just turning each square cutter 90 deg. Easy, no brainer, as the cutters sit in well machined slots.

TEAR OUT.... virtually none, as you are taking tiny scallaop cuts vs. sweeping cuts.

DEPTH OF CUT.... you can take a bigger cut without boggin down the motor, as the multitude of tiny scallop cuts take less force than sweeping cuts.

FINISH - well, equal to about 150 grit sanding.

Thats a start, I am sure there is more others will offer...