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Thread: transtint question

  1. #1
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    transtint question

    Can I use transtint with minwax penetrating stain? Need to get a darker walnut color
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  2. #2
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    You need to put the transtint on first...it's both water and alcohol soluble. It goes on first because the binder in the Minwax product seals the wood and it will not absorb they dye effectively at that point. To actually tint the minwax oil based stain to a different, darker color, you need either a pigment or a dye that's compatible with an oil base. Alternatively, you can create a glaze/toner using shellac that's tinted with the transtint dye and use that to alter the color of the previously applied Minwax oil based stain.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 01-11-2020 at 7:18 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Thx Jim. I'll try a couple of applications of the stain and then the tinted shellac.
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  4. #4
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    Bill, I never really did much with tinted finish/toners in the past but with my recent foray into guitar building has changed that. It can be a powerful tool. It can also be a disaster. If you have spray capability, you'll be able to exert a lot more control over the effect of the toner (tinted shellac in your case) so you can tip-toe up on the exact shade you want.
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    No spray capability, Jim, so I'll do a lot of testing on the cutoffs I've saved. What could possibly go wrong?? Also trying a filler for the first time, so there's lots of opportunity for the disaster you refer to. As Brian says, bumbling forward into the unknown.
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  6. #6
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    Bill, once you use filler, you’ll wonder what all the fuss is about. It’s pretty fool proof. I think I mentioned before, but seal the wood first with a seal coat shellac...one light coat should do it...keeps the filler from coloring the entire piece.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Bill, once you use filler, you’ll wonder what all the fuss is about. It’s pretty fool proof. I think I mentioned before, but seal the wood first with a seal coat shellac...one light coat should do it...keeps the filler from coloring the entire piece.

    Thx Phil. My understanding is that a seal coat will help with blotchy wood, and, as you say, keep the filler from coloring the wood, but it will also inhibit the stain from fully penetrating, making it harder to get the dark, dark walnut I'm looking for. Do I have this right, or am I missing something. (boy, I wish raw furniture was more popular. Finishing is not in my wheel house)

    So far the best I've come up with is timbermate diluted as a filler, sand, 3 applications of minwax stain.
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  8. #8
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    Bill, the shellac will not "inhibit the stain from fully penetrating"....it will keep any dye in the stain from penetrating at all! The shellac seals the wood surface, for the most part. Pigment in a stain will still get into any pores, but probably not quite as well or with as bold an effect. A really super dilute cut might only partially seal, however. I personally prefer to do any grain filling after any coloration is accomplished and sealed for this reason.
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    My bad, didn’t re-read the post. If you’re after a dark color, yes, what Jim says. Color first, then seal, then fill. You might want to look into the Black Walnut Watco for the color. I haven’t used it, but apparently gives a great dark color. You’ll just need it to cure for a few days/week prior to the next steps.

    Here’s a link to a video on walnut...at the end he goes over different finishing...fillers, finishes, etc.

    https://youtu.be/CN8J7Nhk40Y

  10. #10
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    Jeez, I need a book on finishing...

    Jim: if I fill after the stain and sealing, won't the filler need to be sanded? And wouldn't that lighten the color?

    Phil: thx for the vid - very helpful.
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  11. #11
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    Did I miss what wood you are using Bill? Makes a difference. But for many woods SW's BAC Wiping Stains will add amazingly deep color in one coat, like white oak to completely black, etc. The BAC Wiping Stains aren't really advertised much by SW's, but they exist and anyone can buy them if you ask. And they can custom mix any color for you if the stock ones aren't exactly what you are looking for. They are a mix of dye and pigment in a single product with a mostly Naptha base and essentially no binder, so it dries very quickly after wiping. After a couple of hours you can spray a light coat of Sealcoat or rattle can shellac to seal it in and then apply whatever topcoat you would like.

  12. #12
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    Hey John - working on a small walnut conference table that needs to be a very dark walnut.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Did I miss what wood you are using Bill? Makes a difference. But for many woods SW's BAC Wiping Stains will add amazingly deep color in one coat, like white oak to completely black, etc. The BAC Wiping Stains aren't really advertised much by SW's, but they exist and anyone can buy them if you ask. And they can custom mix any color for you if the stock ones aren't exactly what you are looking for. They are a mix of dye and pigment in a single product with a mostly Naptha base and essentially no binder, so it dries very quickly after wiping. After a couple of hours you can spray a light coat of Sealcoat or rattle can shellac to seal it in and then apply whatever topcoat you would like.

    Thanks for the tip John - called a SW store near me and they can mix it up for me on the spot.
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  14. #14
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    Bill, if you apply grain filler properly, there is very little "sanding" required.
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Carey View Post
    Thanks for the tip John - called a SW store near me and they can mix it up for me on the spot.
    Good deal, Bill.

    JOhn

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