Opinions on two drill press features

[Michael Mannion]

I am planning to purchase a drill press for general household use; I have several projects - some wood, some metal, and some plastic - that require more precision than I can achieve using my handheld drill.

Last having used a drill press 30 years ago in shop class, I'm starting with effectively zero knowledge on the subject. I've spent the past few weeks, however, reading product literature, user manuals, and discussion forums (thank you to the authors of the myriad useful posts on this topic) and am closing in on a decision. I have a pretty clear sense of my needs, and am able to weigh the value to me of most features, given their cost.

That said, without any first-hand experience to speak of, I don't know what I don't know. Therefore, I'd like to ask two questions of members who already own/use drill presses, and have the benefit of hindsight.

Specifically, if I could get the exact same machine, with only the following differences, would you recommend that I purchase one with a:

1. Benchtop or floor mount?
2. Reeves drive or three pulley system (assume the same minimum/maximum speeds and, say, a dozen pulley configurations for the latter)?

It's probably impossible to answer these questions without some context, yet I want to avoid steering anyone towards a particular answer. So, in general terms, I'll say on the first topic that:

• I'll be working from my multi-use garage, not a dedicated workshop.
• A benchtop model + bench, or a floor model, will cost me about the same amount of money and space.
• I don't otherwise need a bench (e.g. working space, storage), but I'm sure I'll use it if I have to get one.
• I can get wheels for either.
• I've read that floor models accommodate larger workpieces, but that I can also rotate the head of a benchtop model off of the side of the bench and put the workpiece on the floor.
• I might have to move the press on occasion - but trying to lift a benchtop model at a local retailer disabused me of the notion that I'm going to be dragging it around and clamping it on a table like I do with my grinder/vise/miter saw/etc. I expect that either will be largely stationary, out of necessity.

Basically, I could be talked into either mounting option.

On the second topic:

• The Reeves drive seems easier, but the consensus seems to be that changing pulleys is easy, too.
• I assume that a simpler system (three pulley) is more reliable and easier/cheaper to fix than a more complex one (Reeves). I worried about the same thing when switching from a truck with a manual 4WD shift lever & locking hubs to one with a push button, but I haven't had a single problem with the button in 20 years, so maybe modern engineering is just better than I think.
• I've read that some three pulley systems can have big gaps between adjacent speeds. I don't know if that's going to matter for me. Considering that, heretofore, I've drilled everything on "high" with my handheld drill, both systems seem to have plenty of speeds.

Honestly, I didn't even know until now that I should be using different drilling speeds for different materials and bits. Accordingly, I have no gut sense for the whole variable speed thing, other than having read a few charts.

Thank you, in advance, for your advice.

[Brian Tymchak]

Michael, the choice likely comes down to size of work that you forsee doing on the DP. My benchtop DP only had a 3" throw. If you intend to do any sizable wood working that may become a limitation. It did for me, and I worked around that issue, but it was a Ieading reason for me upgrading recently to a floor model with a 6" throw.

The other main concern would be bit speed. My benchtop could not turn any less than 580 rpm. That's a little high for some larger bits. It can scorch in the hole, thus requiring many more iterations of pulling out to clear the debris and cool the bit. I can't remember when I last changed to a higher speed. Lastly, the table size, and support capacity, can be important if you are likely to handle large heavy pieces.

A final note - benchtop machines may not have the precision you may require. They typically have a little more runout than the bigger machines, although that can also be more influenced by diligence at setup when the chuck is installed.

[Mark Hockenberg]

Hi Michael,

I recommend choosing a floor standing model. These models are generally more versatile in terms of capacity and quill stroke. Due to the overall size of the machine, they don't take up much shop space. I installed an after market table on mine that makes it extremely useful for a variety of applications.

If you read up on the bench vs. floor decision, I think you'll find that many, many of us started with a bench top machine and "upgraded" to a floor standing machine.

My first was a floor standing machine purchased over 20 years ago. I still operate that machine - It has never had an issue and has taken everything I threw at it.

I'm not familiar with the reeves drive. My machine has the pulley system which is quick and easy to adjust. That said, I can't remember the last time I changed speeds.

Cheers,
Mark

[Cary Falk]

I prefer a floor standing unit over a bench top. I had a bench top model and it was almost 100lbs. I didn't move it around much. If you put it on a cart then it takes the same amount of space as a floor standing unit. The bif thing form me was a floor standing unit has a longer spindle travel.

I prefer a vs DP over pulleys. The pulleys are usually pretty easy to change but I find myself using the correct speed when all I have to do is rotate the dial.

[Bill Dufour]

Reeves drive system are loud and very old school design (1890). I would buy a used step pulley design with three phase motor. pretty much any DP with factory 3 phase motor will be as good or better then most of what is in your budget new today. Add a $100 VFd and get instant reverse, power braking, slow start etc.
I have not shifted belts on my dp for more then ten years of light hobby use.
Any DP watch the lowest RPM many are too fast for metal or large wood bits.
Bill D.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I've been using a Jet 17" floor drill press since 2003 and like it a lot. I do change speeds often, it is a 3 pulley design. At least every month, sometimes in a single day I will use 500 rpm to run small and medium Forstner bits, 350 for big ones, 1440 for normal small hole drilling in wood, 3600 for the sanding drum, and occasionally 200 for drilling steel or plastic. The other thing I use a lot that I don't always see on drill presses, though maybe I just don't know where to look for it, is a depth stop. When I build fiddles, mandolins and other archtop instruments I shape the outside and then use the drill press to drill a lot of holes from the inside to a specified distance from a rubber foot on the drill press table. Then I can connect the dots when I carve out the inside, and end up with the proper thicknesses on the compound curves. For what you're doing the depth stop might not be helpful, but I wouldn't want to be without it for what I do.
Zach

[roger wiegand]

1) Plus another for floor standing. I've used the extra height frequently over the years.
2) I would love to, but don't have variable speed. I keep watching CL for a bargain in a variable speed drill press. My old Delta is a real knuckle eater when I have to change the belts around (just about every time I use it it seems)
3) I'd add a keyless chuck to your list. I found a good Albrecht at a reasonable price on Ebay and it has greatly improved my life. Not dealing with the chuck key is wonderful.

[andy bessette]

Get a quality floor model with the lowest low speed and more than 3 pulleys.

[Mike Henderson]

Floor model for depth.

Reeves drive so you won't have to change pulleys. With pulleys, the belts are hard enough to change that most people just use the speed that's set - unless it's way off. With the Reeves drive you just slide a handle (at least that's all I have to do).

Mike

[Roger Feeley]

Reeves drive system are loud and very old school design (1890). I would buy a used step pulley design with three phase motor. pretty much any DP with factory 3 phase motor will be as good or better then most of what is in your budget new today. Add a $100 VFd and get instant reverse, power braking, slow start etc.
I have not shifted belts on my dp for more then ten years of light hobby use.
Any DP watch the lowest RPM many are too fast for metal or large wood bits.
Bill D.

+1 on Bills recommendation. Buy a step pulley machine and upgrade to VFD. The only downside is that you won’t have a readout of the actual spindle speed without some math. But I go with my gut anyway.

mine is floor mount and I agree that quill travel is a big deal.

[Larry Edgerton]

Reeves drive system are loud and very old school design (1890). I would buy a used step pulley design with three phase motor. pretty much any DP with factory 3 phase motor will be as good or better then most of what is in your budget new today. Add a $100 VFd and get instant reverse, power braking, slow start etc.
I have not shifted belts on my dp for more then ten years of light hobby use.
Any DP watch the lowest RPM many are too fast for metal or large wood bits.
Bill D.

Why do you say Reeves drives are loud, and really, who cares when it was designed. I have a Clausing with Reeves drive, it is quiet and has no electronics to burn out just after they are no longer available. If you have not shifted belts in ten years you are either drilling one size hole or doing it wrong and would benefit from a Reeves drive.

[Jeff Duncan]

I would not say "jeez don't do that"..... but for what your spending you could have a couple nice used machines. Not sure where your located, but I'd at least consider checking your local CL or other used options before spending that much on an "OK" new press

good luck,
JeffD

[Michael Mannion]

I would not say "jeez don't do that"..... but for what your spending you could have a couple nice used machines. Not sure where your located, but I'd at least consider checking your local CL or other used options before spending that much on an "OK" new press

That's a recommendation I've observed more than once during my reading on these forums so far - the best bang-for-the-buck is on Craigslist. I believe that that's true, for people who know what their doing.

Unfortunately, in my case, I have three factors working against me:

1. I don't have the skills or experience to assess whether a given used drill press will prove to be a bargain, or a rip-off
2. I have too many projects in the works as it is; I'm looking for the drill press to help solve them, and not to turn into another repair project of its own
3. I live in a small Craiglist market (Maine) and, while I have some time to spare to look around, I need a machine that I can put to work within a couple of weeks/months

If I was buying something that I understood, like a computer, motorcycle, or house, I'd feel comfortable shopping around (and waiting for the right "upgrade" to pop up on CL, as I have those things already). With a new-to-me technology like a drill press, I'm willing to pay more for something with a warranty and a factory support phone number, until I learn the ropes.

If you think I'm going to be wasting my money, though, I'm all ears. Is it worth giving up the warranty/support to get... a stronger motor? bigger table? longer stroke? The model I'm considering seems like it covers my bases, but maybe there's some awesome feature that I'm missing and could afford if I went used instead.

[andy bessette]

...I'm willing to pay more for something with a warranty and a factory support phone number...

Those are virtually valueless on a drill press.

[Ole Anderson]

The only show stopper I see with the G7944 is that from the pictures, it doesn't appear to have a quill lock. And take off that goofy safety device around the chuck.