Anyone do a Beaded Face frame Cabinet

[Jared Sankovich]

When I used the Kreg, I made the rails and stiles extra wide and screwed them together, ran them edgewise through the planer to make them identical and did the notches together and cut to width. Not terribly efficient but made the doors uniform. If I did a lot I'd make jigs but for a one off, didn't bother. Dave

I run it all through a shaper off a back fence. Not as fast as ganging through a planer or widebelt but consistent and square (or as square as a double shear head can be)

[David Kumm]

Jared, it was keeping the distance between the notches on the face frame and doors exactly the same that got me to screwing pieces together. I'm sure there is a better and faster way to do it but my memory is shorter than the intervals between making beads. Dave

[Jared Sankovich]

Jared, it was keeping the distance between the notches on the face frame and doors exactly the same that got me to screwing pieces together. I'm sure there is a better and faster way to do it but my memory is shorter than the intervals between making beads. Dave

Ah. That would work. Ive always used stops to keep all parts /notches perfectly consistent, but ive never used the Kreg jig, just the router bits. Not being able to set a stop at whatever distance out to 96" would be a hindrance to me.

[Jared Sankovich]

For those using the kreg fence, do you stick to single pass notching (and the widths required by the bits) or do multi pass to a width mark? Other method?

[Jim Becker]

I'm not Jim, but a .250" bead with a 1/16" quirk (.312" total) is correct for cabinets imho.

Sounds about right considering I used a "standard" .25" beading cutter.

[Patrick Walsh]

I had been a cabinet maker full time the last few years. Up in Boston we are always behind the idea with trends. Did piles of beaded face frames and doors.

We always did applied bead and even on stain grade work. Honestly you can’t see the glue line even ripping the beading right off the table saw.

I have used the Kreg bit but not with their fence. I made my own version. Only issue with that system is without a fence that is long enough to repeatedly put notches for intermediate rails the system is kinda useless imop.

If I insisted or had a client that insisted on integral I’d just work $5k into the project budget for a used Morso NFL or maybe sat $2-3k then eat the rest of the cost and consider I just got a new toy half price and the next job would make up my out of pocket loss.

But applied works and if you have a wide belt to sand the backs flush your golden. Even if not a it s tiny bit of material to clean up and aha d plane and sander makes quick work of it for a single project. If you did it day ina d day out like that you might shoot your self.

[jeff norris 2011]

I do beads all the time. I prefer a cock bead (raised bead).

IMG_6994.jpg

The method I learned was make regular face frames, them mill beaded stock, mitre the stock and glue it into the face frame. it may take longer but it is fool proof. the only trick is matching stock

[Jeff Duncan]

I've done plenty of them, though its been a few years since the last job I used them on. Never did applied beading, always seemed like cheating to me. Especially on stain grade where you'll notice the different shades. But thats just me, as long as the person getting the work is happy.... thats all that counts

I had a custom beading cutter made for the shaper and ran all the stock through. All the notch cuts were done on the tablesaw..... too cheap to buy one of those fancy machines to notch. Really not that bad though, probably an extra couple hours of work vs having one of those notchers on an average kitchen. Since I didn't do them all the time, just didn't makes sense to invest that much in such a specialized piece of equipment. Anyway the key for me was planning so that once setup for a cut, you make ALL the cuts before moving to the next size. Worked week enough for me anyway.

good luck,
JeffD

[Patrick Walsh]

Ok tables saw.

So rip fence is a bump stop and you used a sled or?

Next size as in if the flat of a rail or style is different I assume.

I've done plenty of them, though its been a few years since the last job I used them on. Never did applied beading, always seemed like cheating to me. Especially on stain grade where you'll notice the different shades. But thats just me, as long as the person getting the work is happy.... thats all that counts

I had a custom beading cutter made for the shaper and ran all the stock through. All the notch cuts were done on the tablesaw..... too cheap to buy one of those fancy machines to notch. Really not that bad though, probably an extra couple hours of work vs having one of those notchers on an average kitchen. Since I didn't do them all the time, just didn't makes sense to invest that much in such a specialized piece of equipment. Anyway the key for me was planning so that once setup for a cut, you make ALL the cuts before moving to the next size. Worked week enough for me anyway.

good luck,
JeffD

[Jared Sankovich]

I've done plenty of them, though its been a few years since the last job I used them on. Never did applied beading, always seemed like cheating to me. Especially on stain grade where you'll notice the different shades. But thats just me, as long as the person getting the work is happy.... thats all that counts

I had a custom beading cutter made for the shaper and ran all the stock through. All the notch cuts were done on the tablesaw..... too cheap to buy one of those fancy machines to notch. Really not that bad though, probably an extra couple hours of work vs having one of those notchers on an average kitchen. Since I didn't do them all the time, just didn't makes sense to invest that much in such a specialized piece of equipment. Anyway the key for me was planning so that once setup for a cut, you make ALL the cuts before moving to the next size. Worked week enough for me anyway.

good luck,
JeffD

Any reason for the custom shaper cutter over the standard freeborn?

[Curtis Myers]

For those using the kreg fence, do you stick to single pass notching (and the widths required by the bits) or do multi pass to a width mark? Other method?

Kreg sells several notching bits. They sell two widths (1-1/2" & 2") notching bits each supporting 1/4" or 3/8" beading bits.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c40/b...-frame-system/

Curt

[Dan Hahr]

I’ve done a whole house in beaded face frames. I bought a nearly new used Kreg jig and it worked very well. It takes a couple hours to set up and test fit but as long as you size your stock carefully, it’s set till the end of the job. I used 1.5” FF and the 1/4” bead (bead plus quirk). It’s very nice for assuring alignment of rails. As long you want very clean, nice tight joints and not a “rustic” look, you’d be very happy with the Kreg jig.

Dan8FB25C1C-CAF1-4161-847E-26044C0D7500.jpg

[Jared Sankovich]

Kreg sells several notching bits. They sell two widths (1-1/2" & 2") notching bits each supporting 1/4" or 3/8" beading bits.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c40/b...-frame-system/

Curt

Right but you're limited to the kreg 3/16 or 5/16 bead with and 1.5 or 2" ff overall width. If you want for example a 2.5" mid rail for a library ladder mount it's a 2 pass deal.

I was curious how people accounted for that. I've taken the industrial notcher approach of shifting the part by the difference of the cutter width vs the rail width. Though if you mark out everything you could just cut to the line.

[Jeff Duncan]

Ok tables saw.

So rip fence is a bump stop and you used a sled or?

Next size as in if the flat of a rail or style is different I assume.

I have a slider attachment for my saw that I've used on its own and I also have a sled which makes setups a bit easier. And yes the fence acts as a stop when using the slider. With the sled you can just attach stops.

While a full height door box is simple enough to do top and bottom of stiles the same... when doing drawer bases you have to do multiple notches. Pain in the butt if you forget one!

JeffD

[Jeff Duncan]

Any reason for the custom shaper cutter over the standard freeborn?

Because I'm excessively anal about getting things to look the way I want I just wasn't happy with the off-the-shelf beading cutters, so I had one made up that hit the sweet spot for me. Wasn't really that much different either, just a little tweaked from standard. Seemed like it may have been excessive at first, but I ended up pushing a lot of stock through that cutter, so worth it in the long run. Would anyone else notice...... yeah probably not

JeffD