Ok machinery guys I need education ASAP.

[Kevin Jenness]

Again, here is a link to the manual content.powermatic.com › manuals › 1791267_man. That will show which parts are which and how to adjust them, pages 12-15.

[Erik Loza]

The surest way to stop snipe from planer is use a helper to catch and run the stock end to end...

YUP! This is a challenge for us at trade shows. Not enough booth space for proper outfeed support + tons of spectators crowded around during demos. You have to hustle around to the outfeed side to help support the piece on the way out if it's anything but a small board.

Erik

[David Eisenhauer]

From Kevin's manual, pg 13 - "most planning problems are due to improper setting of the pressure bar" (or something akin to that anyway). I wonder if that statement can be taken as a good general statement or more specific to this particular machine?

[Darcy Warner]

From Kevin's manual, pg 13 - "most planning problems are due to improper setting of the pressure bar" (or something akin to that anyway). I wonder if that statement can be taken as a good general statement or more specific to this particular machine?

Its usually the culprit along with to low and to much pressure on outfeed roll.

[Matt Day]

First, relax.

Second, I hope you’ve looked through the manual that Kevin linked to?!

Third, call Powermatic if you need to.

[Mel Fulks]

I've always found that there are fewer feed problems with good steel. M2 or T1 or other. If you get a good knife and
compare it to a stock knife by trying to use them like a draw knife you will see there is much less resistance with the
better steel. Sometimes adjustments have been made to improve the poor feed of poor knives.

[joe milana]

Can m2 or t1 even be had anymore?

[Mel Fulks]

Sure , they were stopped for WW2 war equipment reasons. Then came back. Some sales people will occasionally say they can't get it.
So you might have to go to a different vendor. You can look at a just planed board and see if it has good steel. Even a
dull good knife will leave a some what shiny surface. The cheap stuff will show striations on even the very first board after
knife change. T1 did take a long time to come back.

[Roger Feeley]

Patrick, I had a problem with my PM15HH. The wood kept getting stuck. Finally, I got smart. The next time it happened, I clamped the stuck stock to the I feed table so I could lower the table all the way and see where the problem was. It turned out that the leading edge was just hitting the edge of the casting at the trailing side of the first infeed roller. Put another way, the stock passed the infeed roller and hung up wher the cast table resumed. That edge of the table was very sharp. Almost like a chisel.

I solved the problem by filing a little chamfer on the casting. Just a few thousandths will do it. I didn’t even remove the roller. That let me lower the roller to just a couple of thousandths above the cast table.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks Darcy.

[Patrick Walsh]

Long day

Had to move my Felder shaper out of my shop after work and get it on a pallet to be shipped tomorrow.

I did not screw with the planer today. I did take another look at it after reading the manual from Kevin, thanks Kevin and then from Darcy thank you also.

This machines has the pressure bar before the the cutter head ganged together with the pressure roll. The tolerance is set at the factory and it is what it is. I’ll get a picture tomorrow but there are springs that press the individual pawls down that make up the pressure bar before the cutter head. All I can figure is the machine is old and those spring are tired?

I have zero snipe on the outfeed side. And you know the outfeed side has independent adjustment of the pressure bar and the feed roller. So you know no wonder I can get that cutting right.

My thought is without adjustability in front of the cutter head I’m probably just banging my head off the wall?

[Darcy Warner]

Chip breaker, whole different function.

[Patrick Walsh]

Sorry u r correct the chip breaker is set at the factory and adjusts with and in unison with the infeed roller..

Same problem though as I can only adjust the Infeed roll. And whatever I do to it I do tovthe chipbreaker..

[Jeff Duncan]

This is probably a silly thought, but it just popped in my head so what the heck..... have you checked to make sure the knives are at the correct height for the machine? I imagine if they're off what they're supposed to be by a fair amount they'll cause some problems?

I'm lucky enough to own a machine that was set at the factory and needs no adjustments. There's even a sticker in side the hood that says basically, don't even think about trying to adjust. Just set the knives, grind them to height and go

good luck,
JeffD

[Mark Hennebury]

Every machine can be adjusted......one way or another. Just depends how far you want to go.

Sorry u r correct the chip breaker is set at the factory and adjusts with and in unison with the infeed roller..

Same problem though as I can only adjust the Infeed roll. And whatever I do to it I do tovthe chipbreaker..