Hi Mike
I am coming in late, but note that you have not responded to anyone here. In my opinion, you should get rid of your machines. The reason I write this is that you do not appear to be interested in the type of work that involves building furniture or anything where preparation of stock for furniture (or larger items). You appear to enjoy (?) building small items, and it is quite reasonable that these can either be prepared from processed boards (more expensive, but a labour saving), or you could use hand planes to do this work (saving lots of space ... although you do need a work bench).
Those here recommending keeping your machines don’t get it because their mindset is on the preparation of boards for furniture. This involves finding the desired section of a board, cutting it to size, flattening and thicknessing it to the desired dimensions. That does not appear to be on your radar ... at least not further than getting your son squared away. The mindset of a furniture builder .. even box builder .. lies with the aesthetics as much as the stock for use.
You need to consider whether this is important to you, that is, whether woodworking is a passionate hobby or a cost-saver at home.
On a train to Munich
Derek
I didn't get the impression that the OP is forsaking woodworking. However, I _would_ add no matter what small items one is dealing with, _square_ lumber is essential, no matter how you're achieving that, and keeping the machinery is important for that, if hand tools aren't in the picture. That everything is an exact thickness or whatever is secondary (a separate issue.)
Thanks for all the replies.
Think my post should have been how do I increase my work space? I work out of a 2-1/2 car garage. Have to reserve one space for my wife's car but she lets me use the whole garage on the longer length projects. Half the garage is already filled with my large tools and benches. Think I need to narrow down what I do - I have 1950 Uni, SCMS on mobile base, dust collector, 17" BS, floor standing DP, 15" planer, air compressor, track saw system, 4'x8' knock down MFT table, router table, 8" jointer, PM 3520B lathe, Miller welder, and 6' workbench. And this is just the big stuff .
Checked the price of milled hardwood at the local supplier and think I'll keep the J/P for now.
Thanks
Mike
Mike,
Curious, do you mind posting the breakdown of rough versus S3S per species? I almost reached out to my wholesale supplier to have actual price comparison. I know its nowhere close to $0.13 a board foot. I almost remember it being 50-100% more.
Well, I work out of a 3-car garage, with a full complement of stationary tools, and I can park _two_ cars in there, in a pinch, thanks to the modern miracle of mobile bases, and some careful planning. Heck, right now I'm doing a significant overhaul of one car, surrounded by tool trays, and it's not even tight. The lathe might be an issue (I have a separate wood/jig storage room for that stuff.) Tomorrow I could roll everything back into place. Overhead and high wall storage is also helpful.
[QUOTE=Patrick Kane;2981070. I know its nowhere close to $0.13 a board foot. I almost remember it being 50-100% more.[/QUOTE]
Find a new supplier. I cant say If your buying 3-6-10 boards but if your buying half packs or reasonable quantities it should be well below $1 and more like well below $0.50 per bf.
How would a percentage ever work anyway? Surfacing 6/4 figured maple is exactly the same work and time as surfacing 6/4 poplar or pallet wood.
If your being quoted a percentage of your order your being scammed beyond scammed or your dealing with someone who is trying to drive off the fussy public
I work out of a 2 car garage that has 2 cars parked in it every night. I've got a table saw/router table, floor standing 17" drill press, 6" jointer, 13" planer/sander flip cart, 14" band saw, SCMC, 32" x 72" workbench, 24" x 48" sharpening/general purpose workbench, folding assembly table and folding outfeed table. So to me, you've got lots of room
The only wood I don’t mill is plywood.
Dan
Boy, I’d love to have that 8” jointer. Mine’s a 6”.
Tell me about it! Years ago I took on the challenge to build a new entrance door with sidelights. At the time I had a 6" jointer and one of the heavy frame pieces almost cause my jointer to tip over as I hit the out feed table. That was the decision point to get the 8".
Mike
You sound more like a serious woodworker now than you did early on! Sorry I doubted you
I also recommend a combo jointer/planer. This was my solution and it saved a ton of space.
Regards from Munich
Derek
Milled lumber for these big projects -
My door:
IMG_0391.jpg
kitchen (learned a lot on this project!):
Mike--as a favor, i'd be happy to store that 3520B and/or jointer in my garage for you!! I've been to Mike's a few times, and he truly makes tremendous use of space...also, that picture doesn't do justice to that front door--it's incredible!!
Glad you posted Mike--i'm past due for the time to put my EZ-One table on a lift. Can't find the one you got at Lowe's (powered by a drill), which i'd prefer...so i'm about to pull the trigger on an electric from HF. If you can recall the brand of the one you have i'd really like a reminder. Thanks!!
And on the topic of S4S from box stores--i bought a little when i first started out, a pair of mahogany boards. Both labeled as 3/4", but the thickness was more than 1/16" different--which i discovered after i cut the dovetails under the assumption that 3/4" would be the same. Nice thing about milling my own is that whatever the thickness--it's consistent. I'd need to have a very reliable supplier to trust that consistency to someone else.
earl