A jointer is a fairly simple machine. The outfeed table should be at the same elevation as the knives on the cutter head and the infeed table is lowered the amount you want to remove. If you raise the infeed table to the elevation of the outfeed table, they should be in a straight line. A straight edge would be handy to check them, a long level is a reasonable substitute.
I got my current lunchbox planner from a guy at church that thought it had an electrical issue (not in my experience) and wouldn't cut anymore (true but it was due to grossly dull blades). So you should check the blades but a need for sharpening including small nicks is not a big deal. To be expected.
I do not currently own a bandsaw. I used to have one but got rid of it during a move and haven't replaced it yet. I did all the trim carpentry for my house plus built 3 beds, 4 end tables, a chest of drawers, a crib, and a changing table/chest of drawers without a bandsaw. I need a new dining table, however, and the design I plan to use pretty much requires a bandsaw. So I will get one.
I buy my tools based upon what I want to build. Some people like using a bandsaw and hand tools but I do not have the patience for that. I use bandsaws for curved cuts, not straight ones. I have a SawStop PCS but used cheaper table saws for decades. But I always had a table saw. To me they are basic, not just for cutting things to size but also for joints, rabbetts, dados, and tenons. If you use sheet goods, I think a track saw should be on your list. Wen is the least expensive I've seen. Makita and DeWalt mid-level. Festool near the top level of price.
Without a bandsaw you need something that cuts curves. A bosch jigsaw is what I use now. Much better than most jigsaws and not terribly expensive. You will still want it with a bandsaw. I could possibly continue to get by with just the jigsaw but I don't want to. Even a good one lets the blade tilt especially in thicker wood.