Can I make a Dining Table from Plywood?

[Barry Lawrensen]

I have some 4' x 10' Red Oak Plywood (from an auction sale), furniture grade. Would it be foolish to use plywood for the main part of a dining room table, and then use solid oak such as 5/4 flat, about 4" wide flat with a 3/4" groove for the plywood, and then another 5/4" oak vertically: I found turned ballisters at a local Habitat ReStore for $25 each that I would like to use as legs. So the table (hopefully could seat 10) would be approx 4'7" wide x 10'7" long. Is a 5/4 x 10' sturdy enough to support the table with four legs, or do I need 2x4 or 2x6 to support the sides with four legs?

So my main question is: would it be foolish to use plywood for the main tabletop; finished with five coats of polyurethane?

Thanks for the advice!
Barry
--some woodworking experience, but haven't made a big table before--

[Mark Daily]

Barry, I think 4’- 7” is too wide as it would be difficult to reach the center of the table. Spanning 10’ will be difficult without some center support. You mentioned using a 2x4 or 2x6 but will this go under the middle of the table? I think a 2x4 will sag unless you use several. Even 2x6’s might need center support.

I don’t see anything wrong with using the plywood for the table top but whatever you put around the edges should be flush with the table top, not extend above it as that might be uncomfortable to rest your arms on.

I would finish the edges with wood veneer edging (the stuff that comes in rolls) or you can make your own by cutting thin strips of solid wood and gluing it on. I would put the oak under the table about 2-3” from the edge as this would look better than flush with the edge.

Your biggest challenge will be spanning 10’. I don’t see how it can be done without something massive running from one end to the other.
Not only do you need to support the weight of the top but the weight of stuff on the table including people leaning on it.

Hopefully someone will chime in if they have a solution.

Also, don’t forget to seal the bottom with some type of finish to prevent it from losing and gaining moisture at a different rate than the top.

[Barry Lawrensen]

Thanks, Mark, for your reply. That's the exact feedback I need as I make a plan.

QUOTE=Mark Daily;2977966]Barry, I think 4’- 7” is too wide [/QUOTE]
All comments well made and understood. I could cut the plywood down to make the finished size 4' x 10'; I would like the finished table to sit 10-12.

Your biggest challenge will be spanning 10’

Also, excellent point. I found a YouTube of a solid ash table with a good undercarriage support, including a center 5th leg, which is one idea. Or even two center legs inside the skirt, though I realize those would become knee-knockers.

[Mark Daily]

Have you thought about a trestle table design?

58F4EA82-551F-45F7-AC83-FFBC3DCD2B4B.jpeg
The table in that video is a beast and it looks like it has a slight sag in the center.

[Jamie Buxton]

Have you thought about a trestle table design?..

+1 on this idea. Putting the table support in the middle means that people can sit anywhere around the table without colliding with the legs. Also, when you shove the empty chairs into the table, they don't collide with anything.

When you're designing a pedestal or trestle table, you want the base to extend far enough that the table will not fall over if somebody leans on an edge. This table will be over four feet wide, so you have room to make the base big enough for stability, but still small enough that diners don't collide with the base.

[Gordon Stump]

...............So my main question is: would it be foolish to use plywood for the main tabletop; finished with five coats of polyurethane?

Thanks for the advice!
Barry
--some woodworking experience, but haven't made a big table before--

Veneer hardwood plywood is fine for a table top. Veneered tables have been around for hundreds of years. Add some 5/4 or thicker x 5-6" aprons and solid oak edging with a simple contour and there you go. To prevent sag maybe an additional "apron" down the center. I am not an engineer but three 5/4" x 5" x 9' oak boards on edge can support some dishes without sagging IMHO.

[Jan Smith]

Depending on your preferences you also leave the plywood edges exposed or build a metal frame the plywood sits it.

[andy bessette]

Plywood will be fine. Forget the balusters. But I like the trestle design.

[John Makar]

If weather permits, put it on a couple of sawhorses and have a family meal on it. That will teach you all you need about dimensions. I find sectional tables sane. Ours grows to 8' for Xmas, and shrinks to 4' for the rest of the year. It increases complexity, but adds a whole lot to functionality. A lot of wood species have become so expensive that veneer is the only way you can make a table top from them, so that part is totally reasonable. I'd go slow on poly finishes, practice on scraps. I also now only pad and wipe all my finishes, no brush or spray, much greater control. Five coats of poly would take me at least ten days to apply.

[jeff norris 2011]

My dining table is 42" x 8'. Fits 10 very comfortably with no issue. At Christmas we sat 12 at it with no problem (4 on each side, at 2 at each head).

My top is solid wood on a very generous trestle. no issues with flex, but it is 3.5" thick with an additional runner along the middle.

I am not sure 48" would be too wide as another poster suggested. I really do think I would notice the centre being 3" further away from the sides on my table.