I have two straight edge wide Pro Grip aluminum clamping guides from Peach Tree Woodworking catalog # 582 and 596 on this link
https://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_progrip.html . I've had these wide guides for about 23 years. and before the DeWalt saw noted below I used them with a 7 1/2" Commercial Black and Decker circular saw that I have owned for about 43 years.
I have recently been using my 18 volt Dewalt W/lithium battery circular saw similar to this 20 volt version which is now available.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-2...91P1/205407037
For each saw I made a kind-of sole plate from 1/2" Lexan that rides on top of, and is guided by, the Pro Grip guide clamps. These sole plates have a zero clearance blade area where the blade teeth rise up through it, so I can make chip free cuts. This area of the sole plate is thicker, so the bottom of it touches the surface of the wood being cut and it's thickness matches the thickness of the clamping guide. I have also made a spacer that equals the width between the clamping guide and the blade that I use to position the guide the correct distance from the cut line, also made from Lexan.
About the only things that I don't have with my system is the foam backing on the clamp guides, which I probably could add, and the easy ability to do plunge cuts. I've been using my system since before track saws came into existence. I like the ability of track saws to collect the saw dust, but since my shop is very small, I break up all of my sheet stock outside the shop on a cutting table, so being outside I have no real need to capture the saw dust. My cutting table is just a 1 X 4 pine frame about 20 X 70" in size with 2 X 4 cross pieces, one across the middle and two near each end, laid flat and flush with the top surface of the frame. These end 2 pieces of 2 X 4 are positioned to allow attachment of a set of metal banquet table legs which are attached to the bottom of these 2 X 4 pieces using short screws. When folded, these legs fold up into the recess of the 1 X 4 table frame. The entire frame has no metal in it except for these screws. It is all assembled using biscuits and Titebond II glue, so shallow blade cuts into the top surface of the table will never hit metal.
Using this cutting table has several advantages. The biggest advantage is that I don't work at ground level, since I can no longer do this. Using the cutting table instead of saw horses, and making all cuts with the work roughly positioned so that the cut line is down the middle of the table, keeps both pieces from falling as the cut is being completed. They both lay on the table until I remove the off cut and re-position the remainder for the next cut. This results in no broken edges, like frequently happens at the end of a cut when using saw horses. When finished, I fold the legs of this table and slide it into my sheet stock storage area, where it leans against the sheet stock until I need to use it again, taking up less than 4" of floor space. I still have a couple of saw horses, but mostly used now for holding a work table or scaffold board. I keep looking at track saws, but I can't see that having one would be of any significant benefit over what I already have.
Attached are a few photos of the cutting table and guides. I don't have a good photo of the Lexan base at this time.
Charley