track saw vs circular saw with guide

[Carl Crout]

Carl,

My aluminum guides are about 6" wide, not the common narrow ones (look at the picture and compare them to the 2 X 4 cross pieces in the table). My saws are attached to 1/2" Lexan that is grooved to fit the channels of the top side of my guides. The blade side of my circular saws that I use with these guides hangs over the side of the guide, but very little of the saw body extends beyond the guide on the non blade side of the saw.

Charley

Thanks, when I went to Peachtree's website and looked for the model numbers that you posted I saw that they were indeed wider

[Robert Engel]

I also used a home made guide for many years, then picked up an adapter that PSI used to sell in conjunction with angle alumimum.

But - despite that, I never really got perfectly straight cuts. Acceptable - yes, but now that I'm using a track saw, I can see why so many people go that route.

Main uses: breaking down sheet goods and straight line ripping rough stock. I went with Festool I use the plunge cut for sheet goods and the circular saw version for rough cutting.

In your shop, you might find an MFT system would work. I don't know you're type of work or your pocketbook, but a real life cabinet saw will set you back enough to maybe justify the MFT route.

[Jim Dwight]

Thanks. I did not realize that Forrest made blades for circular saws. Glad to hear you get good cuts. It seems like more skil is still required, however, to keep the saw against the guide relative to a track saw. The need to clamp the guide I hessitate to say is a track saw advantage. I've often made cuts with mine without clamping but I've also had it shift. So if the cut is important I clamp - if possible. Plus I get good dust collection.

[Mark Hockenberg]

Hi Carl,

I'll throw in my two cents. I've cut sheet goods using your method, Festool track saw, cabinet saw and slider. I don't have the slider any more, as that was in a commercial shop I sold.

For my current home hobby work, my preference is the track saw over the other available methods. I get accurate, quick cuts with minimal effort. With a rail square from TSO Products, I get square cuts I can't get any other way (and only one pencil mark ). I also use the track for routing, 32mm boring, etc., so for me, it serves many uses.

I found the investment to me more than worth it, but you have to judge that yourself. Since you're not sold on moving to a track saw, my advise is to visit a Woodcraft/Rockler and demo one or find a local woodworker who would show you theirs.

Cheers,
Mark

[michael dilday]

I use the homemade guide that Gary Striegler mentioned in his video.

It works great. I made 2 one 8' and another 4'.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYdCv5R786c

[Bill Space]

I've always used a guide and a circular saw when breaking down plywood sheets. Worked well, but I often wondered about a track saw.

Then just before Christmas, Grizzly had a sale on their Grizzly T25552 - 6-1/4" Track Saw Master Pack. And they also had a free shipping promotion going on. The hook set quickly and I ordered one. Something like $165 plus 12 bucks oversized shipping charge, but the standard shipping was not charged (around $19). So for $177 plus tax I got a chance to see what the track saw is about. (that sale is apparently in effect until tomorrow, Dec 31). Kit included a 55" rail and two clamps, plus a piece for joining to a second 55" rail.

Anyway, I now see the advantages of a track saw. I like it. Especially, as pointed out above, the ability to line the track up on the cut marks, without having to add an offset. Am I the only one that marked the offset wrong and ended up with my cut being off by the amount of the offset? Will never happen with the track saw.

The second Grizzly track piece is expensive, relatively, as compared to the kit price when on sale. The first track I got was bent in shipment. Grizzly sent a second one and told me to do whatever I like with the first one (sent pictures of the damage). I may be able to salvage a portion of the damaged track. If so all the better.

At the end of the day, I am not sure spending $500 plus for a track saw would work for me. But as I get more use under my belt I may learn that it would be.

My conclusion is that the only way one can really understand the difference between a track saw and a circular saw with a home made (or other) guide is gain experience with both.

At this point I am starting to believe the track saw rules...

[Carl Crout]

I use the homemade guide that Gary Striegler mentioned in his video.

It works great. I made 2 one 8' and another 4'.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYdCv5R786c

That's similar to mine except I have a extra piece at the bottom that squares it against the piece I am cutting. I also use 1/4" hardboard for the bottom piece of the jig instead of plywood

[Carl Crout]

I've always used a guide and a circular saw when breaking down plywood sheets. Worked well, but I often wondered about a track saw.

Then just before Christmas, Grizzly had a sale on their Grizzly T25552 - 6-1/4" Track Saw Master Pack. And they also had a free shipping promotion going on. The hook set quickly and I ordered one. Something like $165 plus 12 bucks oversized shipping charge, but the standard shipping was not charged (around $19). So for $177 plus tax I got a chance to see what the track saw is about. (that sale is apparently in effect until tomorrow, Dec 31). Kit included a 55" rail and two clamps, plus a piece for joining to a second 55" rail.

Anyway, I now see the advantages of a track saw. I like it. Especially, as pointed out above, the ability to line the track up on the cut marks, without having to add an offset. Am I the only one that marked the offset wrong and ended up with my cut being off by the amount of the offset? Will never happen with the track saw.

The second Grizzly track piece is expensive, relatively, as compared to the kit price when on sale. The first track I got was bent in shipment. Grizzly sent a second one and told me to do whatever I like with the first one (sent pictures of the damage). I may be able to salvage a portion of the damaged track. If so all the better.

At the end of the day, I am not sure spending $500 plus for a track saw would work for me. But as I get more use under my belt I may learn that it would be.

My conclusion is that the only way one can really understand the difference between a track saw and a circular saw with a home made (or other) guide is gain experience with both.

At this point I am starting to believe the track saw rules...

Thanks Bill.
My guide works just like the track saw guide, you don't have to do any figuring related to offset.

For me the main advantage I see is that the saw rides on the track and won't move off of it so I don't have to worry about keeping it against the track.

I think I can take one of the guides that was mentioned above https://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_progrip.html

and make a base for my saw that will ride on it. It will save me alot of money and take care of the one advantage mentioned above. Not counting a track saw out mind you, I have been eyeing the Dewalt.

[michael dilday]

That's similar to mine except I have a extra piece at the bottom that squares it against the piece I am cutting. I also use 1/4" hardboard for the bottom piece of the jig instead of plywood

The extra piece on the bottom is a great idea. Maybe I will modify mine.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Here's a test for those that say a shop made guide is just as good as a Festool, Makita or DeWalt....

Take a full sheet of 1/4" underlayment. (or anything really - Luan underlayment is one of the nastiest things to cut since it splinters so bad - but - not when using a decent track saw)
Cut it in half by starting the cut standing on one side of the sheet. Stop in the middle of the cut and go around to the other side of the sheet and resume cutting.

With two of the three saws I mentioned above, you'll find nothing on the cut line to show that the cut had been stopped and started. I know this for a fact because I own a Makita cordless and a Festool TS55EQ.

FWIW - this is not some sort of "try this even though it never happens in the real world" type of exercise. I'm constantly starting and stopping and restarting cuts - in order to avoid having to do things in an awkward position.
As long as the track doesn't move - which is one reason why I take the extra time to clamp mine, the cuts are always perfect. Not close....perfect.

The idea that a shop made track saw is anywhere near one of the quality track saws is on the same level as saying a 2x4 clamped to a table saw is every bit as good as a quality fence.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Rich,
You are exactly right. I have the Makita 36V cordless track saw with both tracks (4 ft. and 8 ft.) and I know exactly what you are talking about. Plus the nice rubber edge in the track keeps the edge nice and clean with no tear out.
David

[Jim Dwight]

I questioned the need before I bought my DeWalt but now that I have it, I would not want to go back. One of he many advantages is it allows me to make large furniture despite a table saw limited to 36 inch rips. Big pieces, solid or sheet goods, just get cut with the track saw. My "cut table" is my out feed/assembly table with a piece of one inch foam on top. I can back the pickup to a single garage door on that end of the shop and slide material from my truck onto the cut table. I can still cut on the floor level but why would I want to?

In terms of price, there are several levels. There is a Wen that is even cheaper than the Grizzly. I am sure there is some difference but you do not have to spend $500+ to have a track saw. To me the sweet spot is the Makita or DeWalt but if I had to use a Wen I would still want it. When considering the price, I think it is important to consider the track price. I got my DeWalt because I could get a long guide to cut 8 feet, a short guide to cut 4 feet, and the saw for about $600. The Festool saw is not that much more, saw to saw, but the guides are really expensive. You cannot get a 100+ inch track that I've seen for the cheapest saws, however. I haven't tried cutting with connected tracks but will soon to cut a straight edge on 12 foot boards.

It is also fully possible to use a track saw without pencil marks, you just have to make up what I call a track positioning jig. They are handy for repeated cuts. I got a Incra marking jig, however, shortly after getting the DeWalt because I noticed that my marks were a significant issue in the accuracy of my cuts. Like any new tool, you have to learn to get the most out of it. But they are simple to use.

[Tom M King]

I have been using shop made guides for over 40 years. My current favorite circular saws are the Porter Cable 347, and 743 magnesium, 12 amp. They are mirror images of each other, with one being a right bladed, and the other a left bladed. They can go both directions on the same track.

This particular cut was 20 feet long. No one can tell where one cut stops, and the other starts. This was for a job where we milled off 3/4" of deteriorated Heart Pine flooring, in an 1828 museum house, and laid in 3/4" of good Heart Pine to replace the bad parts. The second picture shows that job in process.

For framing a house, I keep another track for ripping plywood sheathing that uses a 10-1/4" Milwaukee circular saw. We can stack sheets 3" thick, or more, and cut them all at once. If one sheet on the bundle doesn't get cut all the way through, that gives us a good guide where to set the "track" for the next cut.

I wouldn't mind having a track saw, if someone gave it to me, but so far, have no need to buy one. The only difference I see is dust collection. In the old houses I work on, or cutting outside, sawdust matters little.

We don't use it for "breaking down" sheet goods. I have helpers, so plywood for cabinets gets cut to final size with the first cut, usually on a table saw.

[Dan Baginski]

I have the old two pieces of plywood glued and nailed together. The top piece is the guide and the bottom piece is the straight edge where the cut will be made. Works just fine and it cost me about $20. Maybe takes a few seconds longer to set up on my marks and clamp down. Big deal.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I bought my Festool TS55 about 8 or 9 years ago, with one 4' track. I splurged and bought a second 4' track.

I use the connectors to cut 8' lengths and can barely feel where the saw passes the joint in the track.

I liked the track saw so much, I bought the Festool MFT table. This probably has been my least favorite Festool product, great if you have limited space, but I found it limited for what I needed it for most, which was cross cutting 90 degrees, the width is just too narrow.

I've bought a few TSO products, to use with the track saw. The 90 angle attachment is the best and gets used a lot. I bought their parallel guides, which allow you to rip consistent widths easily, but those were overkill and that's a tool I probably shouldn't have bought.

What the Festool track saw lead me to do was make my own Festool type MFT table top, out of MDF, and allow me to cross cut, up to 36", at pretty much any angle I choose. This past weekend, I helped a friend make a new fireplace mantle. He needed 45 degree cuts on the end of a 8' long x 10" wide board. This was easy with the track saw and the bench dogs holes on the homemade MFT top.

I rip all my sheets down, laid on the floor, on top of a 2" pink insulation board.

I once ripped a 2" x 4", into 2, across the diagonal corners, using the track saw.

The track saw is not a tool I use everyday, like my table saw, but when needed, it is priceless.