track saw vs circular saw with guide

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I think track saw is better than a power saw and a guide for every activity associated with a panel break. It will be faster to setup and probably more precise at most situations also.

On the other hand the traditional power saw is more convenient to work in Carpentry than a track saw for most activities.

The question is if a track saw is worth for you. It will depends of a lot of variables including your disposable cash, how frequently you need break panels, your preference for generalist against specific tools, and so on.

Personally I stay with my power saw and a heavy duty aluminium L guide I use for 26 years. I love to have multifunctional tools and breaking (at average) just a couple of panels per year I cannot justify a track saw to myself.

[Cary Falk]

I think the difference is like comparing a bicycle to a car. Both will get you to work but......

I didn't see anybody talk about the fact that when you bevel the blade the cut line stays in the same place.

[julian abram]

"The only advantage that I see is that with my guide I have to make sure I keep the saw up against it while a track saw runs on tracks."

Yes, and you hit the nail on the head with this observation. It is difficult to make a long rip, say 8', without repositioning your hands or the trailing power cord or taking steps and repositioning your body. Resulting in a bobble with the saw moving away from your guide. We have all used saw guides for years thinking we don't need a darn ole track saw...………… until we buy one and think why didn't I get one of these years ago? The cut may not be any better with the tracksaw but there is some value for the easy of operation and the smile on your face.

[mike stenson]

I think the difference is like comparing a bicycle to a car. Both will get you to work but......

I didn't see anybody talk about the fact that when you bevel the blade the cut line stays in the same place.

This is a pretty big advantage, being able to bevel EXACTLY where you want it without calculations. Then again, I'm fortunate to have a track saw (that has paid back every cent I paid for it almost 20 years ago now), and several standard circular saws.

Another thing I love track saws for is repair work on wood flooring, which I haven't seen mentioned either.

[Leo Graywacz]

If you are a hobbyist then a circular saw and home made track is fine. If you can make the track perfectly straight that's even better, but it can be a challenge.

If you are a professional and you do this for a living just go out and get one of the systems. I have the Festool T55 and got it before it got crazy pricing. I think I paid $550 for the saw, 55" track, systainer and clamps. This more or less eliminates the need for a tablesaw in the field. Not completely, but for the most part. It gives accurate cuts pretty quickly.

Had a buddy that was going to be installing some MDF beadboard for one of his clients and asked if he could borrow it after he had helped me out many times and I had used the saw on the job.

He borrowed it and it made his job so much more easy. He borrowed it one more time and then he bought his own even they he had told me earlier that it was just too expensive. That was until it made the work that much quicker and more profitable. 3 jobs later it had paid for itself for him.

I use mine in the shop to put straight edges on plywood and to cut sheet good lengths that are difficult to do on my (standard) tablesaw. Something like a side of a pantry cabinet that would be 24"x 85". Makes life so much easier.

But I wouldn't use it in the shop as my normal means to cut plywood rips because the tablesaw is so much faster and more accurate.

It has it's place, and in the field it rocks.

[Jim Becker]

If you are a hobbyist then a circular saw and home made track is fine.

Not sure I'd agree with that, per se...it really comes down to the level and kind of work one does and which will best support their individual needs. It doesn't matter if they are doing the work for their own enjoyment or to get more shekels into their pockets when it comes to this kind of choice.

[Bill Space]

I think the difference is like comparing a bicycle to a car. Both will get you to work but......

I didn't see anybody talk about the fact that when you bevel the blade the cut line stays in the same place.

I laughed when I read your post Cary.

As someone who commuted to work nearly every day for five years, year round, 32 miles per day ( when in his 50s), by bicycle, I can assure the comparison is more like the difference between a motorcycle and a car...

Point well taken though, there truly is a difference.

[Leo Graywacz]

Not sure I'd agree with that, per se...it really comes down to the level and kind of work one does and which will best support their individual needs. It doesn't matter if they are doing the work for their own enjoyment or to get more shekels into their pockets when it comes to this kind of choice.

Well most aren't willing to plunk down $600-700 for equipment. And of course there are different levels of hobbyists. I know some hobbyists that have shops that I'm jealous of.

[Dan Rude]

Thoughts on this system? https://www.truetracsaw.com/products...hoC-90QAvD_BwE

I have the truetrac saw guide system. Was debating on the Kreg system, because it was a left side blade. Price was $400 with the long track this Holiday. Decided to stick with the TrueTrac for the following reasons. 1. Already had the 8' system. Upgraded the saw plate to their new one with dust collection. Then picked up their squaring attachment. The reason I have liked it is that it uses 2 bars for connecting the rails, the bars are dove tailed. This keeps the rails straight and true with very little adjustment. I like it better the the other system that uses your own saw. I also like the fact I can use either my corded saw or my M18 Milwaukee Fuel 6.5". I also just got the router base. I have to set up the new accessories and may review them. My total cost is right around $285 for the upgrades. My show cost was about $400 for the 8' kit, upgraded clamps and the TrueTrac Expandable Track Table Kit. Dan

[Cary Falk]

I laughed when I read your post Cary.

As someone who commuted to work nearly every day for five years, year round, 32 miles per day ( when in his 50s), by bicycle, I can assure the comparison is more like the difference between a motorcycle and a car...

Point well taken though, there truly is a difference.

A bicycle is slower, more work, cheaper, less versatile, and a pain in my a**(literally). Yep, sounds like a bicycle to me.

[Craig Andresen]

Also, with some systems (I use and love the Eurekazone, despite several frustrating aspects of the full system) you can also attach other tools, like a router. Doing "outside" routing with a track is incredible. I would NEVER go back to a table or a simple guide for this task. Also, because the router is held to the work, you can cut in the "wrong" direction, which gives a better finished surface.

Can you clarify what you mean by outside routing, and how do you attach your router to the track? I’m considering a track saw, but if there are other uses for the track I wasn’t considering that would make it an easier decision :-).

[Frank Drackman]

I use my router on my Dewalt track much more frequently than I use the saw. I know that Festool & Dewalt offer adapter plates that ride on the track and attach to the router. I expect that other companies also offer something similar.

Using the router is not as convient as the saw because there is an offset. With the bit I use most often the offset is 3.5" from the track to the leading edge of the bit.

Can you clarify what you mean by outside routing, and how do you attach your router to the track? I’m considering a track saw, but if there are other uses for the track I wasn’t considering that would make it an easier decision :-).

[Mike Cutler]

Can you clarify what you mean by outside routing, and how do you attach your router to the track? I’m considering a track saw, but if there are other uses for the track I wasn’t considering that would make it an easier decision :-).

Craig
Most, if not all by now, of the tracksaw systems have a router adapted carriage plate that runs on the track. Because the adapter is keyed to the track, the router has no choice but to move in an orientation parallel to the track. It is fixed. It can't dip in and out, and doesn't rely on the user maintaining the usual edge guide adapter tight to the edge and perpendicular to the face of the material.
An edge guide will follow the edge. With the track you can accommodate for an edge that may not be uniform, removing a little more or less from one end or the other. Your reference is no longer the edge, but the track.
Doing long stopped dados, slots, or grooves, in the field of the material, with a track is much easier for all the same reasons.

[Jim Becker]

I happen to use Festools system. In addition to the track-saw, I run my OF1400 router on the track (both with and without the MFT table/fence) and have also used my Festool jigsaw on the track once or twice when it was the right tool for the job at hand relative to depth of cut.

[Craig Andresen]

Craig
Most, if not all by now, of the tracksaw systems have a router adapted carriage plate that runs on the track. Because the adapter is keyed to the track, the router has no choice but to move in an orientation parallel to the track. It is fixed. It can't dip in and out, and doesn't rely on the user maintaining the usual edge guide adapter tight to the edge and perpendicular to the face of the material.
An edge guide will follow the edge. With the track you can accommodate for an edge that may not be uniform, removing a little more or less from one end or the other. Your reference is no longer the edge, but the track.
Doing long stopped dados, slots, or grooves, in the field of the material, with a track is much easier for all the same reasons.

That’s awesome, thanks. Searching on Amazon I see the DeWalt, Makita, Triton, Festool... I have a mishmash of routers and am actually looking at the Wen track saw, but I bet I can find one that will work for me!