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Thread: Beginner Table Saw

  1. #1

    Beginner Table Saw

    I had recently decided on a Grizzly G0771Z table Saw and will likely pick one up soon. I do not anticipate needing more than a 2HP motor but I would like a good fence and dust collection. I learned that the G1023RL has the features that I would like to eventually have. In fact, if it were not for the requirement of 220V power I would have already changed my mind to the G1023RL. I also realized that the rails on the G0771Z are aluminum which was disappointing.

    Will it be possible to add features to a G0771Z such as steel/iron rail and fence, dust collection, etc. as money and time permit? Are there any other factors I should consider? I am quite set on buying a Grizzly product.

    I just took one last look at the Grizzly site and found the G0833P, could this be a good option rewired for 120V?

    Thanks so much for any advice, I'm a beginning woodworker.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Oskaloosa Iowa
    Posts
    96
    Justin,
    I just upgraded my table saw in my small hobby shop and went with the Grizzly G0690 cabinet saw. I upgraded from a contractors saw. BIG improvement !!! It stretched my budget but I figured it could be the last table saw that I buy. So......you might look at it that way. Your already thinking about upgrading things before you buy and those upgrades will NOT make the 771z a Cabinet saw.
    I am very happy with my 690 and am pleased that I decided to spend the extra money now and enjoy my saw every time I use it and not think about upgrading in the future. There are so many options and directions to go for a beginner. Buy a bench top saw and make sure you like the hobby and then upgrade to a bigger saw.....or buy a big saw from the start and then you have something of value to sell if you don't like the hobby
    There are several ways to look at it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Staatsburg, NY
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    15
    Justin, I started with the G0771Z and have no regrets. The missing features that you mention did not prevent me from making accurate cuts. For the projects that I do (furniture, instruments), those features add to the convenience of the TS.

    I agree with Mike. There are several ways to look at your purchase. It's important not to buy a machine that you will grow out of quickly or that will frustrate you. Experience helps with anticipating those issues, and the good folks here have a lot of experience. If you get a lot out of woodworking, you will almost surely upgrade your TS someday, even if you bought one of the other saws you mention. That said, I found the G0771Z to be a good first machine.

  4. #4
    Well, I started out with a circular saw screwed to a piece of plywood LOL.

    My next big "step up" was a 60's model Craftsman with a horrrrrilble fence.

    My next step up was more like a Space Shuttle launch - I went straight to a 3HP cabinet saw (Jet Xacta cut).

    If 220 capability is not possible ( have you consulted an electrician?) then unfortunately you will to be limited to mid or lower tier machines, power wise.

    Have you tried looking for a used cabinet saw?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
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    6,144
    If getting 240 volts is not practical, I'd get the saw and use it for a while before adding upgrades. I'm pretty sure Griz saws have standard miter slots so after-market miter gauges and sleds should be straight forward. If you cut mostly 4/4 and sheet goods you may not miss the added HP and if you feel the need for an upgraded fence there are lots of options. I would give the included hardware an honest trial first though.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I personally don't prefer the idea of a "beginner table saw". Choose a machine that's capable of what you really want to do with it and if the bug doesn't bite, it will be easier to sell than something on the lower end. I'm not suggesting buying "high end expensive"...I'm talking more about heft and capability. Honestly, the small expense and hassle to get a 240v circuit made available is worth it, IMHO, so you can go right to that 1023 which will likely serve better in the longer run. If you are truly limited to 120v, then one of the really decent hybrid saws (blend of contractor and cabinet saw in a sense) might be the better choice for you, even if you need to consider other brands to zero in on the best choice for you. BTW...don't think you have to have the "big" 52" or so cutting capacity, either. Most folks can work happily with a 30-36" fence setup and the extra space for bigger often just "collects things". What you want is the "beef" for best long term use and the larger table around the blade, itself. Again, my opinion and others might think, well, otherwise.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 12-28-2019 at 9:41 AM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Doylestown, PA
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    6,144
    Jim is right about the huge table. Some use that as an assembly table. Ok, I'm assembling something and want to use the table saw. Can I without moving/disassembling stuff?

  8. #8
    Justin I bought the G1023 almost 20 years ago and have no complaints. If 220V is not an option then it looks like the 833P has everything you want but it is more expensive. There are many aftermarket rails and fences available if you go with the 771Z and decide to upgrade later, but they could easily exceed the $250 price difference in the 2 saws.

    (Just FYI, I didnít have a 220V circuit so I hired an electrician to run a line from my main panel to the workshop. It was actually much easier then I thought it would be.)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
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    1,513
    Justin,I have upgraded table saws many times. If you have the money buy the 1023 now. I arrived at a 3 h.p. cabinet saw with a good fence on saw #3. The only way that you will outgrow one is if you get into building kitchen cabinets and need a slider. The difference in power,accuracy,and stability is a huge step up. Don't limit yourself to new Grizzly there are lots of used Unisaws and and Jet or Powermatic cabinet saws around that would save you money or make the step up affordable.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    765
    One think to keep in mind is that you will want a 2hp 120v saw on a dedicated circuit. At a previous house the garage only had 1 30amp 120v line going to it. I had several pieces of equipment that had either a 1 1/2hp or a 2hp motor on them. I can't tell you the number of times I was going to the basement to reset a breaker. After several years I ran a 220v circuit and solved the problem (the house had weird Sears circuit breakers in it so I had to replace the box as well). It truly was one of those "why did I wait so long". Buy the saw you want and in the long run you'll save money. Also if possible bite the bullet and add a couple of 220v circuits if you can as sooner or later you will find something you want that can't be ran off of 120v. I personally think you will loose about half your money if you decide to upgrade and sell it.

  11. #11
    Before getting my 1.75hp Sawstop PCS I used saws less capable than the G0771. I built lots of furniture with the old saws. One was home made. I still have my Ryobi BT3100 and with extension rails and a solid base it did a lot of good work for me. While you can modify a table saw fence, it will cost more to do that than to get the similar G0833. It has a steel fence and also a port on the blade guard for dust collection - something my PCS does not have. It is $250 more expensive, however.

    I've used table saws running on 110V for nearly 50 years now. I will admit to that occasionally resulting in a hassle but most of the time it works fine. I have more issues with wood warping into the blade than I do with deep rips. I rip over 3 inches in hardwood when I need to. A 3hp or bigger saw would let you keep a general purpose blade on probably all the time. With smaller saws you really need to use a clean and sharp ripping blade when cutting near maximum depth. I often use 1/8 kerf blades, that makes less difference in my experience than does having the blade be clean and of the right type for what you are doing.

    It would cost me very little to have 220V in the shop. I added a second 20A 110V circuit for my 2hp DC. I could have run a 220V at the same time. I know how so I just pay for the materials. But I don't think I need it. I am happy with my 110V tools. But I also want to be clear that I am not saying they will do everything more powerful 220V saw will do. I need to switch blades sometimes when a 220V saw user would not. That just isn't a big deal to me. I can still make the same cuts in wood, I just have to be more careful to have on the right blade.

    I don't know how the Grizzly saws do dust collection. It works better if there is a chute around the blade that you hook the DC up to. If it is just sucking out of the compartment below the blade, it will work but not as well, at least with the 110V DC I use. My sawstop has a chute and I get nearly no dust buildup in the cabinet. I am confident I would have a pile that gets smaller closer to the dust port if I was just sucking from the cabinet - because I used to have a saw that way.

    I think your choice is good. I would try to scrape together the extra for the steel fence saw but I also think the aluminum one will work fine. Either will not limit what you can make.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Jim Becker is on to it ‘bout the “beginner saw.”

    Alex Zeller is dead-nuts-on ‘bout electrical requirements & performance.

    As for my experience, back in 1969 I bought a Sears 10” radial arm saw at a Sears “fire sale” price. Was a good saw, served me well but I still wanted a table saw.

    About 1980, I sold the radial arm to buy a Delta 34-444 contractor’s saw. Was a very good saw, but still I always wanted a Uni-saw. Dealer told me buy the Uni-saw: “you’ll never regret it; that is the saw you really want.” He worked out a very favorable to me payment schedule. Finally, in 1987, I bought the Uni-saw after selling the contractor’s saw. I ran that Uni-saw from 1987-2016, it worked hard and never failed me. Held its settings on the blade tilt, miter gauge and fence. Sold it for a SawStop because through a momentary distraction, I came close to turning on the saw while my index finger was just about touching the blade.

    The Grizzly web site has a feature so you can compare various table saw features. Might be worth your time to use and think about what it shows you.

    If you can afford it, buy what you really want up front. The so-called upgrades can get expensive and still not make the saw the saw you really want....
    Last edited by Ray Newman; 12-28-2019 at 2:48 PM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Burlington, Washington
    Posts
    53
    I also upgraded from a Delta contractor saw to the Grizzly 1023RL. Prior to purchasing, I had an electrician install a 240V outlet. In my case, the electrical panel is in my garage stall/shop, so the outlet was pretty simple to install.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    461
    Like Mark, I have a G1023 that I bought a l-o-n-g time ago. It had a Shop Fox fence that I despised and eventually replaced with a VSCT. Other than that, it as been a great saw. I've never needed to repair it, but am dedicated in doing preventative maintenance. For an very long time, it was the only new tool that I had ever purchased and I've always been glad I went with the cabinet saw.

  15. #15
    Thanks to everyone for your input! I have read each comment and greatly appreciate all of your advice. I am now looking at the G0833P and converting it to 110V. What I need for now is a saw that works 'out of the box'. Rewiring to 110V shouldn't be an issue for me, but please any and all advice is welcome.

    I am basing my decision on preventing current potential frustrations. If I decide I need 220V down the road then yes, it will be something I'll have to deal with. I don't think I'll ever get that advanced but who knows, and wouldn't it be nice to slice through anything I want without worrying about power. Currently adding 220V and a 3HP saw to my shop is just not reasonable, and I'll bite the bullet and pay the price later if need be.

    Any more thoughts on the G0833P?

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