Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 38 of 38

Thread: Beginner Table Saw

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    1,957
    I use a scotchbrite type pad to get rid of any existing rust on my cast table tops and then re apply Johnson's. When my various machine cast table tops were new, they tended to want to rust quicker/sooner after a waxing, but, as time went on, the wax protection seemed to last longer and longer between applications. I now wax mostly for the "slickum" factor rather than to attack any rust. I don't clean the old coat of wax off, just smear a new thin coat on and immediately buff it out with a soft rag to restore to slick feel. I wonder if the table top "pores"? are filled with wax and now better protected?
    David

  2. #32
    Been down the road your on...as many of us have. I started with a small benchtop saw, just to make a couple small projects and test the waters. I managed to make a several projects with the saw and then eventually upgraded to a SawStop PCS with a 1.75hp motor. I had not yet wired any 220 outlets in my garage. Eventually I purchased a Laguna bandsaw which was 220, so I hired an electrician to install some outlets. Fortunately the main breaker panel for the house is in the garage and so adding three 220V outlets was not too big of a job. About 10 years prior we had upgraded to standard 200amp electrical service (it had been 100A) which came with the installation of a rather large new breaker panel for our relatively small house...so I had lots of empty spaces for new breakers. One reason I purchased the SawStop PCS is that I knew that they make it relatively easy to upgrade to a 3hp 220V motor. It is not cheap, but they do make it easy to order the motor online and they sent detailed instructions. Took about an hour and I had a "new" 3hp 220v saw which was indeed a substantial upgrade over the old motor. Now I have a 16" combo jointer-planer machine which is 220v and a 5hp 220v dust collector. I have since installed about 10 additional 110V outlets around three walls of the garage and a couple in the ceiling, all on their own breakers. I found early on that even handheld routers, shop vacs, and the like use a lot of current and so I was constantly tripping breakers. Plus I wanted better ceiling lights and radiant heaters for the winter (I have four mounted on the ceiling, each on their own circuits).

    Anyways...I use a non-scratch scotch bright and rust remover to attack surface rust on all my tools. Then I clean the tops off with Boeshield T9 spray. After wiping the T9 off, I then top it with Renaissance paste wax. If it's a tool with a cast iron top that I won't use often (like my spindle sander that I don't use much), I will actually just spray on a heavy coating of T9 and leave it to dry in place. Creates a nice rust-proof thick coating which can be easily wiped off later.

    Good Luck!

  3. #33
    I appreciate your feedback on how to handle the rust Frank, David and Scott, I will look for a rust solvent and get some elbow grease behind a Scotch Bright pad. Should I use the green Scotch Bright or can I use something more aggressive? Is it okay to use a buffer to assist stripping the rust?

    I expect to battle some tripping breakers and will probably need to run a dedicated 120V line or two. Maybe that means I should've just gone 240V but I feel more comfortable with extension cords using 120V. Also, the G0833P has the option to go back to 220V so maybe I got the best of both worlds. Someone mentioned having Grizzly prewire my saw for 120V, I considered that but wanted to check the scratch-and-dent area just to be sure what I wanted. I think I got the worst salesman in the city, but I also think I got the right saw anyway. I will be back with an update regarding the G0833P saw for those that graciously provided insight. Thanks to all!

    Also, I seem to have made a mistake b/c my last post ended up in the middle of this thread (copied to bottom of this post). Thank God I copied my text, I almost lost this whole post.

    Repost of rust issue already in this thread (hopefully this one lands at the end of the thread where people can find it more easily)
    Thanks to everyone replying to this thread, I love the humor and advice. I was hoping to return with results and a review, but I'm not there yet. I have some issues and a major question. First the simple issues: (1) a weld on the mobile base failed and a set screw thread snapped off (2) hurt my back moving the saw, brilliant move (3) still need to rewire for 120V (4) I'm just down right apprehensive to even push a piece of wood through, I've never used a saw.

    My goal with this post is to receive table saw top maintenance advice. Using the link below you should be able to see all the pictures I have of the saw (and my incomplete shop). My MAIN concern is rust. I feel like I'm just sitting here watching my investment disintegrate into a pile of rust. When I got the saw home I cleaned the saw with mineral spirits. I then added a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax to the top and sprayed various moving parts with Tri-Flow lubricant. The saw table top has many spots that look like rust and some of them are pretty bad. I don't know what to do. A couple of days ago I cleaned the top with mineral spirits again and put on a really thick layer of paste wax hoping to 'stop the bleeding.' Please any advice is welcome.

    Otherwise really happy with the saw. See one picture where the nylon nub from the fence rubbed the paint down to the metal, what's up with that? Thanks to all.

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WA?usp=sharing

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    1,957
    Justin - As to the scotch brite pads, i have some "other colored" pads that are (I believe) synthetic equivalents of steel wool and some are rougher than others, I would use as rough as one as I needed to remove the rust and then come back over the area with finer grits the same as when sanding wood. The wax can be used as a lubricant if so desired. The main thing is to get in the habit of re applying the wax fairly often until such time as it begins to hang in there. I used to keep a can of Johnson's with a small application rag inside the tin and an old t shirt rag alongside laying out in plain sight to remind me, but now only have to do it once every few months or so. It is a quick operation to slather all of my cast tops with a thin coat of wax, then come back and buff all of them with the t shirt. 5 minutes?
    David

  5. #35
    As other have said. The rust is no big deal. Clean it up with an abrasive pad, and treat the cast iron with your protection of choice. Repeat as needed.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX (NW Austin)
    Posts
    578
    Rust on a new cast iron table is kinda like a scratch on a new car. Luckily a little elbow grease can get rid of it. As a new saw owner take this little bit of advice — never put a cold can of soda, bottle of water, etc on the table unless of course you want to review middle school science lessons in condensation and the creation of iron oxide.

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Revard View Post
    I expect to battle some tripping breakers and will probably need to run a dedicated 120V line or two. Maybe that means I should've just gone 240V but I feel more comfortable with extension cords using 120V.
    I'm sure you'll get the rust under control with the great suggestions here--and I'm sure you'll enjoy the G0833P. Unless you start doing a lot of work with very thick wood, it should be a great saw for you for many years. Congrats!

    For some reason, your mention of extension cords jumped out at me. The G0833P comes with a 16A motor, I believe. That's 16 peak amp draw, not a constant draw, but it's still a big draw on a 120v circuit. Most 120v circuits are either 15A (using 14AWG wire) or 20A (using 12AWG wire--12 is thicker wire than 14, so it can safely carry more power). Obviously, your 16A motor draws more power than a 15A circuit is rated for. That's not to say that you can't use a 15A circuit, but if you do it may trip more often--especially if something else is drawing power on the circuit at the same time. If you do run new 120v circuits, I strongly suggest making them 20A circuits.

    To extension cords: It's not ideal to run a piece of serious equipment like your saw over an extension cord, but sometimes there's no other choice. Please invest in a heavy-duty cord using at least 14AWG, but preferably 12AWG, wire. If you're running on a 20A circuit, then definitely get a 12AWG extension cord. (Most of the "heavy duty" cords I see at Home Depot are 16AWG, so check carefully.) Just because your plug will fit into the socket of a smaller cord doesn't mean that cord is OK for a particular use. Wiring smaller than the load was designed for can overheat. And keep the cord run as short as possible: Don't buy a 50' cord if you only need 10' of run.

    You may know all this already, so apologies if I've gone down an unnecessary path.

    End of sermon.

    Thanks,

    Jim

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Southwest IA
    Posts
    138
    Is the twist lock outlet behind your saw in the pictures a 240 volt or 120 volt outlet? I would check the wiring to see what is running to it for wire size and use it regardless of voltage. Making an extension cord for 240V isn't much of a problem. Get a length of SOJ cord at the big box store and the ends you need and go from there. My table saw and shaper both have 25' cords on them since they get stored along the wall and pulled out in the middle somewhere to be used.
    My first saw was a Bosch portable saw. I did several projects with it before I stumbled on a well used unisaw on a school auction. I kept the portable as it is handy to take the saw to the work and the cabinet saw isn't moving from the shop unless I'm relocating. I still get them both set up from time to time when I want two different setups.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •