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Thread: wood counter tops

  1. #1

    wood counter tops

    I have a friend who has an airbnb cabin. They want to replace the formica countertops with wood. I said I advise against doing this in a kitchen, but that if they really want I would help them find the best way to do it, I suggested end grain butcher block, but said it would need to be oiled somewhat regularly and would be more work. I showed her a table top I made out of knotty alder with tinted epoxy to fill the cracks and she really likes that look. I said I fear that the alder is too soft and maple or oak would be a better choice. Am I right here? Is face grain alder suitable for a counter if finished properly?

    Then, what types of finish would be suitable? I figure a two-part resin-type finish would probably be best. I see there are quite a few on the market with costs all over the place. Can anyone recommend one?

    I don't really seek out paid woodworking jobs but I have done a few and I like the idea of doing this one. I think it sounds fun, but I want to make sure I can do it right. Plus, it will give me a reason to use (and will likely pay for) my new Domino XL.

  2. #2
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    Alder is too soft. It will dent easily. Maple is fine. I'm not much for epoxy and can't get the brand of my phone as its iPhone locked till I can get it to KC to pull my photos off it. We use the epoxy for restaurants but use a semi gloss over it so it's not so glossy...

  3. #3
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    How large is the counter you are making? I’ve made end grain pieces in the 6-7’ range, but they are a little finicky once you get over 3-4’. Of all wood surfaces, that is the hardest to produce and most luxurious. Seems a bit over kill for a cabin, but perhaps this is a high end cabin.

    All wood species will dent if subjected to mishandling. Sure, oak is harder on the janka scale, but I can dent oak pretty easily by ham-handing a heavy piece of cookware. If you choose wood as your main counter surface, I think you just need to accept the wear. It’s a cabin, I assume it’s rustic?

    For finishing, I’ve used Waterlox original on a few and general finishes endurovar. Both seemed to have worked well enough. I would pick something that is easily repairable in place. It’s only a matter of time before a guest damages it.

  4. #4
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    Maple would be my choice if it must be wood. I'd try and talk them into an alternative material for the surfaces around the sink if at all possible...soapstone, granite, composite that looks like stone, concrete, etc.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    I have done a butcher block maple counter top in a lake house. I sprayed it with Waterlox for the finish and used a undermount sink that was sealed well from underneath. It has been 7 years and still looks great. NO cutting on it, make sure to supply lots of cutting boards and put up a sign if its in a rental unit.
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  6. #6
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    I will never use butcher block again. I installed it in a shop space and that stuff moved and cupped way too much for me.

    One tip would be to make sure your cabinets do not have a flat top, since the butcher block needs air to breathe on both sides. If they do, cut a hole in it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    I will never use butcher block again. I installed it in a shop space and that stuff moved and cupped way too much for me.

    One tip would be to make sure your cabinets do not have a flat top, since the butcher block needs air to breathe on both sides. If they do, cut a hole in it.
    Sounds funny. Is your shop acclimated year around? I have a hickory butcher block for a work table but have no problems. It's acclimated and bolted down. ..

  8. #8
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    Is Waterlox water proof?

  9. #9
    For a rental unit, I would not use wood, except maybe on the island (if there is one).

    If forced to do it, I would do edge-grain (quartersawn)

    I have a cherry edge-grain bar top at home and it looks fine 10 years later. I finished it in Waterlox.

  10. #10
    It is rustic, but it is a fairly high-end rental, like several hundred a night. It is right outside one of the national parks here.

    I love waterlox and use it on almost everything, but I was leaning more towards something like behlen rockhard.

  11. #11
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    I have a maple top in my shop. I used a water based finish from Target Coatings. It's held up well although I don't use the sink very often. Unless the counter was small I prefer face grain to end grain for a counter top.

    Sink Cab 001.jpg

  12. #12
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    I'd assume renters would see the wood countertops and think chopping block. As long as the owner doesn't mind knife marks everywhere. Personally, not for me, not even in my house. Never a fan of wood around water. How repairable is Behlen Rockford? Won't it chip if the top is used like a chopping block?

  13. #13
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    If it is an AIRBNB I'd go with the other suggestions of solid surfacing. You can often find reminiscent solid surface tops or "oopsy" ones at a very discounted price.
    No way I'd leave options to chance like leaving plenty of cutting boards laying around, as they will probably just use those as coasters..........

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    Sounds funny. Is your shop acclimated year around? I have a hickory butcher block for a work table but have no problems. It's acclimated and bolted down. ..
    It was for someone else’s shop. Brand new fancy conditioned building with indoor golf simulator and workout/rec room upstairs.

    BB was from a name brand place too, finished per their instructions. Not worth the hassle with all the other solid surface options IMO.

  15. #15
    We have a large kitchen island topped with cherry. I finished it with several coats of Minwax oil-based polyurethane.

    I think it's gorgeous and certainly durable.

    T

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