Teak Outdoor Chair

[Elmer Hayes]

Hola Lee.... just made a contribution and makes all the difference. Thanks..

cheers...

[Lee Schierer]

Hola Lee.... just made a contribution and makes all the difference. Thanks..

cheers...

Thank you for becoming a contributor.

[Mark Daily]

If you’re looking for something really durable (as in indestructible) have you considered Ipe? Much cheaper but still $16.99/BF at Woodworkers Source in Phoenix.

[Elmer Hayes]

Yes, Mark, have considered it. Thanks... still trying to figure of how many BDF (+-) to get for this chair. Don't want to overdo $$$. Always prefer actual lumber boards (less $ per BDF) where I plane and saw them myself. Woodworkers Source only carries planed, polished and sanded.

The chairs dimensions are: H=31"xW28"xD(L)=29". Seat Height=12". So I take ca. 17 bdf, give or take of rough lumber! Could you expert guys chime in whether I am in the ballpark regarding BDF; and don't laugh . That's $288.

Cheers...

[Jamie Buxton]

I never estimate lumber from rules of thumb. I draw out the parts I need, and add it all up. That's my gross lumber requirement. Then I add 20% or so because parts don't always lay out perfectly on the boards, so there's some waste. There also may be waste from end checks, included knots, and the like.

If I'm working with exotic lumber, it may only be available in 4/4 or 8/4. That's apparently all that gets shipped to the US. So if the furniture needs parts that are, say, 1 1/4" thick, I'm going to have to buy 8/4 lumber, which also ups the bdft purchase. Ipe might be an interesting exception to my thickness generality. I've seen ipe decking, finish planed, at 1" and 1 1/4" thicknesses.

From the pics, most of the lumber is thicker than 4/4. The legs and arms look to me like they're 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" thick. I think the big C-shaped pieces are 1 1/4" thick.

[Mark Daily]

Yes, Mark, have considered it. Thanks... still trying to figure of how many BDF (+-) to get for this chair. Don't want to overdo $$$. Always prefer actual lumber boards (less $ per BDF) where I plane and saw them myself. Woodworkers Source only carries planed, polished and sanded.

The chairs dimensions are: H=31"xW28"xD(L)=29". Seat Height=12". So I take ca. 17 bdf, give or take of rough lumber! Could you expert guys chime in whether I am in the ballpark regarding BDF; and don't laugh . That's $288.

Cheers...

When I was in high school, my folks used to build Adirondack chairs out of dimensional fir lumber (2x4’s, 2x6’s, etc). They were very sturdy and held up forever. Redwood would work well too.

Fir is much cheaper and you could buy as much as you think you need. If you run short, then back to the store for more.

[Kevin L. Waldron]

Cumaru (Brazilian Teak) will fit the bill....

[Elmer Hayes]

I've decided to chose Chichipate lumber from Woodworkers sources in Phoenix. Basic information is available on this wood, it also has some oil content and is heavy. Was encouraged to give it a try as compared to the $$$$ of teak and $$$ Ipe. Purchased about 25 bdf of a mix of 4/4-5/4-6/4 at a sale of $5.00/bdf. Will let you know of its durability in withstanding Northern Arizona outdoors.

cheers...

[William Fretwell]

Showed my wife the chair, now she wants two. Previously I’ve made outdoor furniture with white cedar but the curved seat cries out for hardwood not cedar. Your wood choice looks very affordable. Getting the right wood seems the only obstacle.

[Elmer Hayes]

Correct about getting the right wood! If the Chichpate does not do too well on the curved seats then might add a center 1/4" laminated strip of similar.

cheers..

[William Fretwell]

If you come across a source of the brass fixtures for the slats I would like to know. Brass screw inserts are easy to find but the flat head round brass bolts are elusive but very classy. There may be a small centre thread in the bolt head to take a ‘Screw in by hand’ flat cover. Lee Valley have Chicago bolts with a slot on each side in a variety of lengths up to 41mm, not long enough for the seat slats.

[John Makar]

Wandered by the local Woodcraft yesterday, was actually looking for dust fittings but they had just unbundled a bunch of plantation Teak. I paid about $13.50 per bd ft. I don't know that other WC have the same deal, but maybe. Teak has been hard to come by here 'bouts, but seems much more available lately. That said, this stuff was not the stuff I have seen in Scand furniture for decades. Lots of boards with knots, one beauty with a nasty worm hole in the middle. Mine is for a project for a sis-in-law, overdue by ages, so it was a must buy.

[Elmer Hayes]

Hmmnn..didn't see that when I got there last week. Instead was directed to try Cichipate (a bit close to teak.. heavy and oily.; $4.99 bdf; however must admit NOT too good for furniture. It easily cracks and splits even when counter sunk). Okay for floor furniture!. Should have taken IPE, but too late and I'll finish this via ChiChipate... and lotsa oilings !!??

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cheers...

[John Makar]

This load was still sitting on a pallet. Usually the local WC calls it right on species, and this was just labeled "Teak", so I don't know that it isn't the S.American version. At the price it is certainly not the uncultivated form. But same grain, same obvious heavy oil. I've repaired/refurbished Teak furniture in the past, and it can be challenge, definitely is not easy to glue.

[andy bessette]

...Teak...definitely is not easy to glue.

Very simple and easy to glue using WEST epoxy.