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Thread: Help w/Teak Tub surround

  1. #1

    Help w/Teak Tub surround

    Would like your recommendations on how best to complete this teak platform. I’m using recycled plastic 2x4s (not fun to work with) and 3/4 plywood as the base. I have 1/2” thick, 4” wide teak for the vertical surfaces and 3/8” track strips for the top. I’ve attached the photo that inspired the project and current state.

    Here is where I need help:
    1) I don’t want visible screws. The teak will basically be a veneer. I’m thinking of using liquid nails to secure the top boards to the plywood. I’m still weighing options for covering the vertical front of the shower bench. Since they’re will be joins, I think these boards will need a stronger bond than liquid nails. Epoxy, brackets on back?

    2) any recommendations on the best join for the 135 degree angle on the shower bench? 1/2” boards seems too thin for typical mitre and biscuits. I’d also like to avoid having a sharp corner.

    Appreciate your thoughts. With price of teak I don’t have room for error.
    Last edited by John Vietmeyer; 12-25-2019 at 11:36 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    San Francisco, CA
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    Teak is famously difficult to glue. All those waxes and oils in it which make it water resistant also make it glue resistant. You might consider screwing the teak down to the platform. You can leave the screw heads visible. I'd use stainless steel screws. Or you can recess the screw heads, and plug the holes. The plugs can be more teak, or can be some contrasting wood like ipe.

  3. #3
    Good point on the oils impeding glue-up.

    Is 1/2 wood thick enough to screw and use plugs? is there risk of splitting with finish nails?

    appreciate it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Vietmeyer View Post
    Good point on the oils impeding glue-up.

    Is 1/2 wood thick enough to screw and use plugs? is there risk of splitting with finish nails?

    appreciate it.
    1/2" thick might work for plugs, but it is worrisome. You might prototype it before you commit to the design.
    For finish nails, you can reduce the splitting risk by drilling a pilot hole. I don't think of teak as particularly split-prone.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    Liquid Nails would be entirely inappropriate.

    Teak is very simple to glue with excellent results; it just requires certain technique. Immediately prior to gluing, clean the teak with acetone. Prime first with neat WEST epoxy resin/hardener mix; then apply "glue", a mix of resin/hardener combined with either colloidal silica and microfibers or high strength filler. Follow Gougeon's manual for specific details.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

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