The right saw for dovetails and crosscuts

[Mike Manning]

A current thread comparing old saw with new boutique saws reminded me I have no knowledge regarding the use of handsaws. I have plans to start making some boxes and picture frames. I would like to have a nice saw to cut the dovetails and possibly making 45° crosscuts for picture frames. What kind of saw would do both those jobs? I thought I would want a backsaw but it seems there's all kinds of names for saws. Without knowing what I should be looking for I thought I'd ask the collective brain trust here. I prefer vintage tools and am frankly too cheap to buy boutique tools. I'd even ask what brands are considered best. From reading here I'd guess old Disston and Atkins are good but how old? Are these similar to Stanley planes where the quality started to suffer after WWII? Is there a sweet spot of dates on these old saws I should be looking for? Thanks for any and all thoughts/info!

[lowell holmes]

I suggest you try one of these

https://www.lowes.com/pd/VAUGHAN-Vau...Saw/1000218053

Then if you want to step up look at Lie Nielsen

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...vetailsaw.aspx

[Doug Weiner]

If you want to experiment with Japanese saws, try out an inexpensive ‘Ryoba’. You’ll get both crosscut and rip in one saw and you can get a decent usable one for around $30.

[Mike Manning]

Mods: Sorry I posted this in the wrong forum. Please move to the Neanderthal forum. Thanks!

[Mike Manning]

Lowell, Doug,
I'll check around the shop. I know years ago I picked up some kind of Japanese saw at an estate sale, even had an extra blade as I recall. I'll post pics of it if I can find it. Maybe someone can tell me what kind of saw it is. Thanks for those recommendations.

[Jim Koepke]

I would like to have a nice saw to cut the dovetails and possibly making 45° crosscuts for picture frames. What kind of saw would do both those jobs?

You may actually be wanting two different saws. A miter box and saw for the picture frames and a smaller saw for dovetails.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

Buy a new saw - it will be sharp.

If you're scouring the interwebs for good used steel, the German *Do-All* brand with hard maple miter box comes up for auction, now and again.

FWIW - a saw optimized for either task will be slow for the other. Finer teeth - finer finish. Larger teeth - higher speed

[Dominik Dudkiewicz]

I know you said you're more likely to look at old saws, but I think it's hard to beat a Lie Nielsen Dovetail saw, the tapered thin plate version, for cutting dovetails and it will be ready to go out of the box, without needing to spend a heap of time researching, searching, and then learning to restore and sharpen an old saw.

Or, if you want something cheaper that is arguably even better for fine dovetails, a new Japanese Dozuki rip cut saw like a Gyokucho 372 - just depends on if you prefer Western or Japanese.

Cheers, Dom

[Mike Manning]

Found the Japanese saw and the blades I have but have never tried to use. Gyokucho Razor Saw on the still packaged handle. Not sure what kind of blades these are. The packaging for both says Gyokucho. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who knows what these are and their intended use. Thanks!

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[Doug Dawson]

Found the Japanese saw and the blades I have but have never tried to use. Gyokucho Razor Saw on the still packaged handle. Not sure what kind of blades these are. The packaging for both says Gyokucho. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who knows what these are and their intended use. Thanks!

IMG_9856.jpgIMG_9857.jpgIMG_9858.jpg

Ryobas. Good for sawing wood. General purpose, one side for ripping, one for crosscut, for carpentry, softwoods, although you could use them for finer joinery (dovetails etc in hardwoods) in a pinch.

[Mike Manning]

Ryobas. Good for sawing wood. General purpose, one side for ripping, one for crosscut, for carpentry, softwoods, although you could use them for finer joinery (dovetails etc in hardwoods) in a pinch.

Thanks Doug. Are you saying each blade has both rip and crosscut teeth/orientation on opposite sides of the blade? I reckon it's best to just give 'em a try and see how they do.

[Doug Dawson]

Thanks Doug. Are you saying each blade has both rip and crosscut teeth/orientation on opposite sides of the blade? I reckon it's best to just give 'em a try and see how they do.

Yes. Go ahead and give them a try. Just because they're machine-made with replaceable blades, doesn't mean they're inferior. I have both machine-made and hand-made, and there's not much difference (except the hand-made blades tend to be a bit more brittle.) Even if some teeth break off, they still cut well. Of course they are _pull_ saws.

[Phil Mueller]

Mike, yes, rip on one side, crosscut on the other. The saw you picture with the red packaging...the right side (larger teeth) is rip and the left side (smaller teeth) is crosscut.

[Andrew Seemann]

I use a Crown gent's saw for dovetails. I think they are somewhere between $20 - $25 these days. I changed it from a crosscut to a rip pattern. It works as well as I need it to.

[Curt Putnam]

I am surprised that no one has mentioned Lee Valley. Their Veritas saws are arguably the best value is serious back saws available. While you are on the web site, they also sell Japanese pull saws. Certainly worth a look.