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Thread: Felder questions

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Kauai, Hawaii
    Posts
    148
    Thank you. This is helpful. I have come to the same conclusion and have made some pretty major changes in the shop to accommodate keeping the outrigger and fence on the machine all the time. But we could even keep it on for straight-line ripping rough lumber as well, right? I suppose I will still buy the cart though.

    By the way, does the ripping shoe come with the package, or is it an option we must specify?
    I like the storage solution idea, for sure. That sounds super handy.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    51,556
    I got a ripping shoe with my slider in (I think) 2004...it's never been used. I only keep it around so that I have it if in the distant future I sell the tool. I generally straight line rip with my outrigger on the tool, but I also rarely rip a board that's longer than 8'. I rip on the wagon after flattening and thicknessing and generally do the parallel rip using my Fritz and Franz jig (using it as a parallel ripping jig. It's rare I rip a board that's still rough, honestly. I don't use the rip fence until things get small or the particular operation is better handled that way.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. Jim, I find straight line ripping a rough board on the slider sure saves a lot of passes at the jointer.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    243
    The ripping shoe was included when I purchased the KF 700 SP. You should confirm with your sale rep. When I rip 9-10 feet long rough lumber, I take the fence off of the outrigger. It is not too bad by itself, without the outrigger.

    Accessories to consider:

    Solid cast iron table extension, part number 01.1.001. The one with the F coupling. This attaches to the main cast iron table outfeed side. It prevents lumber from falling off of the saw after cut.

    Aluminum andonized table extension, part number 01.2.140. The large extension table. Goes to the same position as the above. Will only work if you don't plan to put a power feeder on the KF. Frankly, you will get a power feeder down the road. But this item is good for other Felder machines. I think it is relatively inexpensive when it goes on sale, which it is currently on Felder e-shop.

    Aluminum table extension for X-roll sliding table, part number 430-104. It attaches to the sliding table with the P ("prism") coupling. OR...

    Rip fence for X-roll sliding tables, part number 430-149. This a parallel rip fence, but the parallel guide can be removed, leaving a larger extension table on the sliding table. My personal preference is the 430-104 because the 430-149 is quite a bit longer, correspondingly heavier and as a result, can get in the way of using the saw.

    The famous "butt bar." Its official name is "Handle for X-roll aluminum sliding tables." Part no. 430-030. It is a nice accessory for when you process sheet good over and over and over.

    Consider buying accessories with your KF if your KF is discounted because the discount applies to the accessories also.

    SW

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
    Posts
    243
    I set the positive reference stop on outrigger fence to the outside (away from the blade), which is/was opposite of how the saw is originally set-up. This allows me to just slide the fence over a bit and put the ripping shoe on the end of the table to handle the majority of boards for straight-line ripping. If the board is really wide then the fence still need to come off.
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Kauai, Hawaii
    Posts
    148
    On my current machine, an SCM Minimax 300 cu with 60" slider, came with no dust collection on the blade, though there is a 2" port on the shroud that attaches to the riving knife. that has always been a bane of this tool, one of a few, but it has also not interfered with crosscutting stock with more than 31" to the right of the blade, since there is no overhead saw guard limiting that operation. I just have had to flip the jointer guard down and remove the saw fence, etc. and use the slider and outrigger/fence to make the cut, such as cutting a piece of plywood in half. With the desire to maintain this capability, I am tending toward not getting the overhead saw guard. Can anyone tell me how difficult or easy it is to remove the simple riving knife guard system that comes standard with the KF 700? Better yet, I am visualizing bringing dust collection hose down from above to the saw guard to minimize interference. Any thoughts from forum members?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    9,787
    Hi, the splitter mounted guard comes off by loosening one fastener.

    I use an overhead hose to the saw guard..........Rod.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    51,556
    Quote Originally Posted by nicholas mitchell View Post
    Jim, I find straight line ripping a rough board on the slider sure saves a lot of passes at the jointer.
    I almost never even use the jointer for edges after straight-line ripping on the slider... ...which saves even more time!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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