Turning Tools - Set or Individual Pieces?

[John K Jordan]

Hello!

I'd like to turn some legs for a wood and leather camping stool, similar to this:
Attachment 421433
I have access to a JWL-1236 that has no tools. In order to turn legs similar to the picture, what tools would you recommend?
And would you recommend buying a set, ...or if only a few tools are needed, investing in some higher quality ones like Thompson's?

You can turn those with one tool, a wide skew chisel, but only if you know how. Rouging, shaping, detail. If you lived closer I'd say drop by for a skew lesson. If you learn the skew first you will be way ahead of a bunch of turners.

You can also made these with only a spindle roughing gouge and a parting tool and some sandpaper. There are other ways.

But it generally doesn't make much sense to buy a few high-quality tools until you get some experience and decide you really want to stick with turning!

As others recommended, if you get a cheap set you can try different tools and not waste much as you grind them away learning to sharpen. Remember the old truism: if you can't sharpen, you can't turn. Another alternative to sharpening is to use the cheap flat top carbide tools but if you hope to turn more things in the future do your self a favor and avoid these. (IMHO) A far better alternative to learning to sharpen right away is to get one of Mike Hunter's carbide tools such as the Hunter Hercules - no sharpening, you can use it as a scraper to shape and also make high quality finish cuuts.

You can sometimes find cheap sets of tools used. Be careful since some of these are not properly hardened and won't hold an edge very long. I keep a of use cheap tools I save for beginners and such. Check each one with a small triangular file - if you can cut into the tool it is not hardened. Some cheap tools are hardened only for the first inch or so - once you grind through that they are worthless.

Another value to buying a set is as you learn to turn and find you never use some, you can regrind them into useful tools such as special scrappers, negative rake scrapers, point tools, etc.

I recommend some practice on shorter spindles before you tackle the legs you show. Lots of people acquire or build a steady rest to turn such spindles to control vibration but I never use one. The biggest help is don't turn the legs between centers but cut the blanks a little longer than needed and hold one end securely in a chuck. If you want, I can teach you my methods of turning long thin spindles without a steady rest.

Here are a few examples. The last picture shows some that go from 1/2" to 1/16" diameter; the 12" scale shows the length.
cedar_and_ebony2_IMG_7528.jpg handle_shuffle_hoe_comp.jpg pointers_IMG_20140311_11390.jpg

If you get cheap tools and want to move on to better tools later, ask again and describe your experiences and what kind of things you've turned with and without success and what you want to turn. There are LOTS of fantastic tools available today that turners could only dream about a few decades ago.

I didn't get a chance to read all the replies, but as others probably mentioned, join a turning club. There will be great help there.

JKJ

[ChrisA Edwards]

I just started turning the past few weeks. My parents bought me a set of Robert Sorby chisels 25 years ago, not having a Lathe, they've just sat in the box until now.

The set had 5 tools, but not a bowl gouge, so I bought a used one off the instructor while doing a turning class at Woodcraft.

But I got turned onto Hunter carbibe tools here, about 3 weeks ago, and now have the Viceroy and Osprey and these, for bowl turning, are my general go to tools for my novice level.

So even if you buy a cheapish set, chances are, you'll start buying the ala carte tools you really want.

I did buy the Robert Sorby Sharpener, not cheap, but so easy and almost foolproof to use.

[Stan Calow]

I am a perpetual beginner on the lathe. I agree with the other Stan: I'd get a set of the carbide tools and start right out of the box. If you want to get the job done expeditiously, rather than start on a learning curve of sharpening and practice turning. Sometimes its about saving time.

[Stan Smith]

I am a perpetual beginner on the lathe. I agree with the other Stan: I'd get a set of the carbide tools and start right out of the box. If you want to get the job done expeditiously, rather than start on a learning curve of sharpening and practice turning. Sometimes its about saving time.

Hey, I appreciate the agreement even if there's some subjectivity involved here. I didn't mention that there's quite a learning curve to learn to sharpen chisels also. I recently bought a sharpening system but I haven't tried my Thompson detail spindle gouge on it yet. Since I'm retired, I can take time to learn though. I really like the CBN wheels compared to the aluminum oxide, but they are not cheap. I only have one (180 grit), but now I want a finer grit one. I obviously suffer from TAS (tool acquisition syndrome).

[John K Jordan]

Hey, I appreciate the agreement even if there's some subjectivity involved here. I didn't mention that there's quite a learning curve to learn to sharpen chisels also. I recently bought a sharpening system but I haven't tried my Thompson detail spindle gouge on it yet. Since I'm retired, I can take time to learn though. I really like the CBN wheels compared to the aluminum oxide, but they are not cheap. I only have one (180 grit), but now I want a finer grit one. I obviously suffer from TAS (tool acquisition syndrome).

I use a 600 grit CBN on a bench grinder and a 1200 grit on a Tormek. I sharpen all of my spindle gouges on the Tormek. I also have a 600 grit wheel for the Tormek and it worked OK but I like the a lot 1200 better. I sharpen scrapers, skews, and bowl gouges on the 600 grit on the bench grinder. All tools get some type of honing to knock off any burr from the grinder, however small.

JKJ

[Stan Smith]

Thanks for the tip, John. Looks like my next CBN wheel will be a 600 grit. I still have some Christmas gifts to make ( bottle stoppers and openers), so my sharpening learning will have to wait. I have learned that you have to go slowly and use a very light touch.