Drill Press Table

[Doug Dawson]

You did a nice upgrade. That was my main beef with this press. They raised the street price by US$400 or so, and they're still using the base and table for a US$500 press. This is what "should have been in the box". I found the as-supplied table etc to be at least _functional_, if less than ideal, so concentrated on the chuck, because I do more machine work.

When all was said and done, what advantage did this new custom table give you, besides looking cool? (Again, this should have been an out-of-the-box experience.)

[I'm very thankful that I got it at last year's price. Otherwise it would not have happened, quite determinedly.]

[Jim Becker]

Derek, did you make a "stop" to keep the inserts from spinning. Maybe a detent ball/spring in the insert the would register in the tabletop?

Since the tooling would enter the inserts off-center in his design, they are not going to spin.

[Phil Stone]

Since the tooling would enter the inserts off-center in his design, they are not going to spin.

I have this circular insert design in my dp table, and Jim is correct. It's not an issue.

[Derek Cohen]

Since the tooling would enter the inserts off-center in his design, they are not going to spin.

I totally mis-read your question, Bill. Jim is quite correct - the inserts cannot spin.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

...
When all was said and done, what advantage did this new custom table give you, besides looking cool? (Again, this should have been an out-of-the-box experience.)

...]

Doug, I like cool-looking tools, but my tools are not there to look cool. I build a fair amount of complex furniture, and appreciate the assistance that may be obtained from well-designed tools or fixtures. In the case of this (and other similar drills), the manufacturer may not be a woodworker or furniture maker, and does not build for my needs. You wrote that it would have been appropriate for the inclusion of something like this drill press table for the total price. I think that manufacturers sell for what they consider to be a competitive price - which is relative. It is likely that the addition of a good table would have then pushed the price too high.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Tymchak]

Derek, I just noticed this morning that the chuck on your Voyager looks quite a bit different than mine. Is that the chuck that came with the drill press? Or maybe that's an aftermarket keyless chuck?

Thanks!

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Brian

It's a keyless chuck. I've been using this one for several years, and brought it over from my previous machine.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, I just noticed this morning that the chuck on your Voyager looks quite a bit different than mine. Is that the chuck that came with the drill press? Or maybe that's an aftermarket keyless chuck?

Thanks!

Brian - and all - a few more thoughts.

The issue of run out is quite complex, in my mind. I am not the expert here, and my thoughts just reflect my simple understanding.

We assume that run out is a function of the quality of the quill and the chuck. Simply put, can it hold the drill bit square? However, unlike router bits, which are short, drill bits tend to be several times longer, and have thinner shanks, and therefore there will more likely be poorer tolerances due to this ... the quill and chuck notwithstanding.

I've been using a keyless chuck for several years. I kept it when I sold my old drill press. The chuck takes the same quill as the Nova, and was directly replaceable. The chuck I have is a copy of an Albrecht ... Albrecht is THE chuck to have, but they cost between $500-$900. The copy would have cost me about $50 all those years ago.

I considered whether I should stay with the Nova keyed chuck, then looked at the name and looked up the price. It turns out to be also Chinese-made and quite cheap (about $50) .. not what I was expecting in a machine of this price. My thoughts were that the Albrecht copy I have must be a good one since I have not seen tangible signs of run out - no obvious wobbles, and the walls of drilling are clean - and there is as much (more) run out expected in the drill bits (I have some expensive and superb drill bits - more on these at a later time).

I needed to drill a 2" hole into the UHMW top. The depth stop was set for 25mm (the top is 30mm thick) - the top was flipped over and the cut finished from the other side. Drilled to 25mm ...



Close up of the walls ...



This forstner but is one I have had for about 20 years, a cheapie from Carbatec, and recently sharpened by myself. I did not want to use my good ones on the UHMW. I think that it did a good job here.

Your thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Doug Dawson]

Brian - and all - a few more thoughts.

The issue of run out is quite complex, in my mind. I am not the expert here, and my thoughts just reflect my simple understanding.

We assume that run out is a function of the quality of the quill and the chuck. Simply put, can it hold the drill bit square? However, unlike router bits, which are short, drill bits tend to be several times longer, and have thinner shanks, and therefore there will more likely be poorer tolerances due to this ... the quill and chuck notwithstanding.

I've been using a keyless chuck for several years. I kept it when I sold my old drill press. The chuck takes the same quill as the Nova, and was directly replaceable. The chuck I have is a copy of an Albrecht ... Albrecht is THE chuck to have, but they cost between $500-$900. The copy would have cost me about $50 all those years ago.

I considered whether I should stay with the Nova keyed chuck, then looked at the name and looked up the price. It turns out to be also Chinese-made and quite cheap (about $50) .. not what I was expecting in a machine of this price. My thoughts were that the Albrecht copy I have must be a good one since I have not seen tangible signs of run out - no obvious wobbles, and the walls of drilling are clean - and there is as much (more) run out expected in the drill bits.

Because this press reverses, I would have thought that a keyless chuck is less than ideal. If you never run it in reverse, okay. But for such things as tapping, removing broken fasteners, chip clearing, etc., you might. I agree that the Albrechts are nice.

[Mark Daily]

Tom, I can see a hole saw working, but I have not come across a 4” diameter to date. It would be expensive as well.

I was planning to build a circle cutting jig for the bandsaw - still will ... one day. It just seemed quicker to use the template to mark a few disks, saw them out on the bandsaw close to the line, then trim them on the lathe. A few minutes for four inserts, all fitting perfectly. These should last quite a long time.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, just FYI, I found a Dewalt 4” bi-metal hole saw on Amazon for about $22 US. Home Depot carries Milwaukee for about the same price but I don’t know if you have them where you’re at.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Mark. I am, however, going to pass on a hole saw. The bandsaw/lathe method is not only free, but easier and also able to create precise-sized inserts - although I call the inserts 4", they are a tad larger (owing to the original routed template being a tad larger than 4" - it is not possible to be exact when enlarging holes using rebate/flush cut bits).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jay Kepley]

Drill Press Insert 1.jpgDrill Press Insert 2.jpg

I made similar 4" round inserts. I used a circle cutting jig on my bandsaw, then sanded the perimeter. I then used a forstner bit to cut the finger holes. The insert is offset so that it can be rotated in the drill press table. The table itself is just double thick MDF treated with BLO.

[Tony Shea]

Derek, I'd love to know more about what Forstner bits you consider your good ones. I'm in the market for some decent Forstners and just can't decide which brand to go with. I'm tired of the cheapie Porter Cable set I have.

[Jim Becker]

Derek is halfway around the other side of the planet, Tony, so tooling available to him may vary from what we can acquire here in the US.

----

BTW, Derek...I'm now seriously considering making a DP table very similar to yours when I have a copious free moment. I really, really like the design and what I've been using (also shop built) has been in service for almost 20 years now.

[Frank Pratt]

Derek, I'd love to know more about what Forstner bits you consider your good ones. I'm in the market for some decent Forstners and just can't decide which brand to go with. I'm tired of the cheapie Porter Cable set I have.

Tony, I got a set of HSS forstner bits from Lee Valley several years ago & they've been very good. Most of the less expensive forstners are carbon steel, which just dies the second it overheats.Couple that with the tendency that forstners have of getting very hot & you get a bad bit.