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Thread: Drill Press Table

  1. #31
    If you can afford one, the Albrecht chucki is the one you want. During my machinist apprenticeship, a friend bought one. The price was about $500 back in the late 70's. If the quality is as good today, there is no equal.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Shea View Post
    Derek, I'd love to know more about what Forstner bits you consider your good ones. I'm in the market for some decent Forstners and just can't decide which brand to go with. I'm tired of the cheapie Porter Cable set I have.
    Hi Tony

    My favourite of the forstners are the Colts, which are made in Germany. Lee Valley sell these. I purchased some from them and others elsewhere.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    ...
    BTW, Derek...I'm now seriously considering making a DP table very similar to yours when I have a copious free moment. I really, really like the design and what I've been using (also shop built) has been in service for almost 20 years now.
    Jim, thanks for the compliment. I plan to add the Wixey laser this weekend. I am wondering whether I can also configure it with a straight, "vertical" line (along the table). This will be useful when drilling for leg mortices. If not, I shall add a second laser for this purpose. I'll post later.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by william walton View Post
    If you can afford one, the Albrecht chucki is the one you want. During my machinist apprenticeship, a friend bought one. The price was about $500 back in the late 70's. If the quality is as good today, there is no equal.
    William, I know ....I know ...

    I shall do a test on the run out on my copy, and then decide. The chuck I have works so well ... if it is not broke ...

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #35
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    Hi Derek
    do you have an pics of getting the drill press in the mobile base? Looking for ideas as I have a bandsaw to put in one.

  6. #36
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    What are you looking for, Ralph? I can take some photos when I install the Wixey.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #37
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    The drill press isn't something you can pick up and have your mate push the mobile base under it.
    Looking for ideas on how to raise it and get he base under it. I assume you did this by yourself? The bandsaw is as big and clumsy to raise as the drill press I would imagine.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Boumenot View Post
    The drill press isn't something you can pick up and have your mate push the mobile base under it.
    Looking for ideas on how to raise it and get he base under it. I assume you did this by yourself? The bandsaw is as big and clumsy to raise as the drill press I would imagine.
    The short story: Size the mobile base, and bolt the drill press base to this, then add the tube, etc, etc.

    What really happened .... ... the story is here:
    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....26#post2972126


    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Boumenot View Post
    Hi Derek
    do you have an pics of getting the drill press in the mobile base? Looking for ideas as I have a bandsaw to put in one.
    Re the drill press, most people would just assemble the base plate to mobile base (with bolts,) and then just assemble or reassemble the rest of the press on top of that. I used a (rigged) hoist for the head.

    With a bandsaw that can't be disassembled easily, it may be easiest to tip it on its side and then bolt the base to the bottom, and tip it back up. It's easiest to do this with a hoist, and even easier to do the _whole_thing_ with a hoist, if you had one big enough.. You could do it with the help of a friend, but then you'd have to buy him lots of beers.

    In the case of a Laguna 18BX (that I have,) you'd just lever it up and put boards underneath so you can add the wheels to it. That one is easy.

  10. #40
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    In the case of my bandsaw, a Hammer N4400, which is quite large, I cheaped out and made my own mobile base. This was about 10 years ago. It actually works very well, and so well that I have not been tempted to change it. Down side. it raises the work. This may or may not affect the ergonomics of your bandsaw. It has been fine for me.

    A simple set of lockable wheels on a 2x4 ...



    To attach, I tilted the bandsaw (!), and bolted one side, then the other. All on my own - for some reason I could not convince my wife to assist, and the dogs were no bloody help either.

    The upside of these wheels is that the bandsaw can be easily positioned in all degrees of the compass, which is not possible with the steel version, in the first post in this thread. The bandsaw is very heavy, and it is stable in a way which a drill press cannot be, and so this design - and method of attachment - works.

    Here is another photo for context ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 12-13-2019 at 7:32 PM.

  11. #41
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    Here is the test for run out for the Albrecht clone keyless chuck.

    Set up ...



    I used a 1/4" shank carbide router bit as the test piece. This was a one-time test, so I may have had better results from another router bit, or from re-positioning it. It is what it is ...



    Results ...



    This reads 0.045mm run out. That is 0.0017" run out. Is that good or bad?

    My understanding is: there is run out that may occur with the spindle, then there is run out that will occur at the chuck and quill (which could also be measured separately), and finally there is the run out measured at the bit. The results here are a total of all these together. It was mentioned to me that around 5 thousands of an inch would be acceptable. I have 1 thousand inch.

    The other item I attended to was to add a Wixey laser guide ...



    It tucks aware and is quite unobtrusive ...



    It leaves a nice, clean line ...



    ... but it is a little wider than expected. The jury is out whether it is just a gimmick, or whether it will prove to be useful.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 12-14-2019 at 4:50 AM.

  12. #42
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    Start by checking runout inside the taper, then you move onto the chucked bit. I would re-chuck it a few times to see if the numbers repeat.

    .0017" is probably fine for a drill press, .005" is not.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  13. #43
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    Brian, I received some feedback after I posted this account:

    Albrecht guarantees their chucks to have run out of .0015" or less. I measured .0017" total for everything (spindle, quill and chuck together). I think that this is phenomenal.

    Regards from Singapore

    Derek

  14. #44
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    I would expect them to have better runout than .0015” but I’ve never measured. I have three albrecht chucks, they are very accurate. So much so that I do not mind using them for boring small accurate holes when a weird size is needed.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  15. #45
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    Very nice Derek. I too appreciate your method of attaching it to the metal table. It does look like the knob to loosen the post would be difficult to get at but really I don't think you'd change that much once tight. Very nice top and post. Thank you.

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